In the winter I don't run my refrigerator so I typically turn the Master DC breaker seitch at the panel off. The AC side remains on to keep the batteries charged. It occured to me last night that by turning the DC main panel breaker switch off I may also be turning the bilge power off - anyone know? Is the binge direct wired to DC power even though there is a bilge switch at the panel?
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In most boats...
... the bilge pump has an auto mode that is always on (ie directly connected to the battery) , and the panel switch is a manual on/off control.
... the bilge pump has an auto mode that is always on (ie directly connected to the battery) , and the panel switch is a manual on/off control.
Maybe not
I was amazed when I discovered that the bilge switch on my Ericson 38 was not wired directly to the battery, but rather through the breaker panel. Which is not a good thing, and which I fixed as soon as I could. It's easy to check, just turn off the main battery switches, and find the float and lift it (if you can) and see if it still runs. If you need to rewire it just be sure there is a fuse in the system. Steve Christensen
I was amazed when I discovered that the bilge switch on my Ericson 38 was not wired directly to the battery, but rather through the breaker panel. Which is not a good thing, and which I fixed as soon as I could. It's easy to check, just turn off the main battery switches, and find the float and lift it (if you can) and see if it still runs. If you need to rewire it just be sure there is a fuse in the system. Steve Christensen
bilge pump
My bilge pump also was deactivated with the breaker switch off; the marina ran a hot wire from the pump to the battery in such a way that it can be operated automatically by the float switch, or manually by the panel switch. Good luck.
My bilge pump also was deactivated with the breaker switch off; the marina ran a hot wire from the pump to the battery in such a way that it can be operated automatically by the float switch, or manually by the panel switch. Good luck.
I prefer leaving it wired thru the panel...
Right now our boat is 'abandoned'...at least in the sense that we've flown away and left it in the care of friends on the dock. I see no special concern about the panel breaker being left on for the pump (which is powered via the panel), just as I've left the DC light circuits energized by their breakers, and the main (fused) panel energized by the (fused) battery selector switch. But what if there's a problem? We had just this kind of thing happen two years ago. The bilge pump was pulling a high load (the motor's shaft had shifted and was seeing a lot of friction) and, after a bit of running, the motor would trip the breaker. What if it had been fused and powered direct from the battery? The fuse would have popped, everything would have LOOKED fine, and the big surprise would come when a blown fresh water fitting or - worse - a sea water fitting carried away and started filling the boat. Especially if one usually uses the manual bilge pump (so you can count the full pumps required and judge if a leak has begun to appear over time), how long would it take to detect that blown fuse? Instead, both our caretakers and we (when aboard) know to check that the breaker is 'on' vs. having been tripped for some reason. I don't see how this is imprudent given that I can isolate all other DC systems from the panel and leave it energized. In boats with a small electric 'maintenance' bilge pump and a hicap bilge pump mounted above it a bit, the hicap pump will be powered via the panel...which I've yet to see anyone worry over. Jack
Right now our boat is 'abandoned'...at least in the sense that we've flown away and left it in the care of friends on the dock. I see no special concern about the panel breaker being left on for the pump (which is powered via the panel), just as I've left the DC light circuits energized by their breakers, and the main (fused) panel energized by the (fused) battery selector switch. But what if there's a problem? We had just this kind of thing happen two years ago. The bilge pump was pulling a high load (the motor's shaft had shifted and was seeing a lot of friction) and, after a bit of running, the motor would trip the breaker. What if it had been fused and powered direct from the battery? The fuse would have popped, everything would have LOOKED fine, and the big surprise would come when a blown fresh water fitting or - worse - a sea water fitting carried away and started filling the boat. Especially if one usually uses the manual bilge pump (so you can count the full pumps required and judge if a leak has begun to appear over time), how long would it take to detect that blown fuse? Instead, both our caretakers and we (when aboard) know to check that the breaker is 'on' vs. having been tripped for some reason. I don't see how this is imprudent given that I can isolate all other DC systems from the panel and leave it energized. In boats with a small electric 'maintenance' bilge pump and a hicap bilge pump mounted above it a bit, the hicap pump will be powered via the panel...which I've yet to see anyone worry over. Jack
Jack, I rewired similar to your setup
I bought a Blue Sea Systems bilge pump switch. It is a separate panel with a three way rocker. To the right is auto, center is off, (believe it or not) and left is temporary on. (spring loaded auto shutoff) It works fine and even has status lights in the rocker. I wouldn't mind removing that middle, off, position. I can't think of a reason to have it off. These come with a fuse built onto the front of the panel. The status lights make that concern less of one.
I bought a Blue Sea Systems bilge pump switch. It is a separate panel with a three way rocker. To the right is auto, center is off, (believe it or not) and left is temporary on. (spring loaded auto shutoff) It works fine and even has status lights in the rocker. I wouldn't mind removing that middle, off, position. I can't think of a reason to have it off. These come with a fuse built onto the front of the panel. The status lights make that concern less of one.
And add a Cole-Hearse light/buzzer...
Yes, the 3-way switch (spring loaded) was the conventional arrangement for much of the last 30 years...and WHOOSH has one, too. What's missing is something that alerts the crew that the bilge pump is running. Especially at night when sailing - or when running the engine - one may never know the pump is cycling because a leak has begun. Wiring a loud buzzer/light into the circuit (ours is right next to the switch) takes care of that concern. A nice benefit is that one of our boat watchers are in the next slip. We think they might actually be able to hear the buzzer from their slip, even with our boat buttoned up. Jack
Yes, the 3-way switch (spring loaded) was the conventional arrangement for much of the last 30 years...and WHOOSH has one, too. What's missing is something that alerts the crew that the bilge pump is running. Especially at night when sailing - or when running the engine - one may never know the pump is cycling because a leak has begun. Wiring a loud buzzer/light into the circuit (ours is right next to the switch) takes care of that concern. A nice benefit is that one of our boat watchers are in the next slip. We think they might actually be able to hear the buzzer from their slip, even with our boat buttoned up. Jack
One more way to do it...
...is to have 2 bilge pumps, a small capacity with a float switch mounted down low and a second high-cap pump with a float switch mounted slightly higher. The second pump is wired to a warning buzzer/light so if the first pump isn't keeping up and the second pump comes online due to a rising water level you'll be alerted. If the boat is left unattended, you could also wire an automotive type turn-signal flasher to the warning circuit and then to your cabin or running lights to signal a caretaker of the problem.
...is to have 2 bilge pumps, a small capacity with a float switch mounted down low and a second high-cap pump with a float switch mounted slightly higher. The second pump is wired to a warning buzzer/light so if the first pump isn't keeping up and the second pump comes online due to a rising water level you'll be alerted. If the boat is left unattended, you could also wire an automotive type turn-signal flasher to the warning circuit and then to your cabin or running lights to signal a caretaker of the problem.
Since we launched last summer after our re-
build, the bilge is bone dry. So I'm going to take out the bilge pump. I don't need,,, But seriously folks, what a bunch of great ideas!
build, the bilge is bone dry. So I'm going to take out the bilge pump. I don't need,,, But seriously folks, what a bunch of great ideas!
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