I don't particularly like the push-to-reset breakers Hunter uses for a bunch of DC equipment in their factory distribution DC panels, would rather have proper breakers. Has anyone swapped them out? Issues? Concerns? Hunter 36 vintage 2008
DC distribution panel in Hunters
- Thread starter George Braun
- Start date
A breaker, regardless of how it is re-set, is a breaker. 
If you can verify each circuit operation, can properly connect wires to a terminal,
and can find a panel that will meet your needs, go for it.
The above is NO small task.
It will require planning, a wiring diagram (that you create),
an inventory of the required parts and tools and the time to redo anything that
you do that doesn't work well the first time.
But, hey, that's how Edison invented the light bulb!
If you can verify each circuit operation, can properly connect wires to a terminal,
and can find a panel that will meet your needs, go for it.
The above is NO small task.
It will require planning, a wiring diagram (that you create),
an inventory of the required parts and tools and the time to redo anything that
you do that doesn't work well the first time.
But, hey, that's how Edison invented the light bulb!
Hi George. What is improper about push-to-reset breakers? Different model boat here, but we have a couple, one being for the anchor windlass. Most everything else, Hunter used toggles supplied by Paneltronics.
I prefer the option available with a regular breaker to switch something off, can't do that with push-to-reset. Just a preference, at this point plenty of more important things to work on.
Many years ago, when I was still learning the boat's systems, we were at anchor and when it came time to leave, the anchor chain jammed because of poor handling on my part causing the 80 amp breaker to trip. Not knowing at the time how they worked, I pushed on it to reset and nothing. Tried several times more, but zip, zilch, nada. Power was coming into the breaker, but nothing going out. Was able to manually get the anchor up and when I got home I posted my dilemma here and got some good advice.
Next time to the boat I tried one tip, which made it reset. I had to put my thumb on the breaker and with my other palm pushed as hard as I could on my thumb, which caused a loud pop. Ever since, I use more care when working the windlass. When it appears to grind to a halt, I release the switch and let the boat movement loosen the anchor, repeat until the anchor breaks loose from the bottom. That was the one and only time it tripped after many years of use.
Next time to the boat I tried one tip, which made it reset. I had to put my thumb on the breaker and with my other palm pushed as hard as I could on my thumb, which caused a loud pop. Ever since, I use more care when working the windlass. When it appears to grind to a halt, I release the switch and let the boat movement loosen the anchor, repeat until the anchor breaks loose from the bottom. That was the one and only time it tripped after many years of use.
Ok, here is the logical answer.
There are many breakers on your boat that you regularly switch on and off. So you’re not surprised if it’s off when you thought is should be on, simply because you didn’t set it,
Now, let’s go to otter breakers…
Radio backup clock, some of the pumps, and in general , stuff to never have a desire or need to shut off.
so, when you look at a section of press to reset breakers, and One or two are popped out, it typically signals an overload condition,
Very easy way of verifying .
There are many breakers on your boat that you regularly switch on and off. So you’re not surprised if it’s off when you thought is should be on, simply because you didn’t set it,
Now, let’s go to otter breakers…
Radio backup clock, some of the pumps, and in general , stuff to never have a desire or need to shut off.
so, when you look at a section of press to reset breakers, and One or two are popped out, it typically signals an overload condition,
Very easy way of verifying .