While checking on my boat this weekend I noticed a few unsightly dark areas on the cabin sole. The fact they're around the edges of the sole makes me believe there's water penetration somewhere. Obviously the first step is to stop the leaking, but I was wondering how to get the dark areas to lighten up. I thought I read somewhere that TSP (or something like that) is good for this. Any suggestions? Thanks,
Dark areas on the cabin sole...HELP!
- Thread starter capejt
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It depends on what is causing the dark areas. Bleaching the wood, assuming the sole is wood, with oxalic acid can often help, but that may also make things worse.
I had the same problum with my S2 8.0B that I bought last month. I had to pull the sole out, but I was adle to save most of the walls and trim by using the care instructions below. Hope this helps.
Tips & Warnings
• For easier stain removal, treat stains as soon as you notice them. The longer dirt, mold, mildew and other contaminants sit on wood, the harder they are to remove.
• Use fine-grade sandpaper to remove persistent or deep stains. Make sure to sand with the grain for natural-looking results.
• Avoid using acid-based cleansers, including products that are specifically advertised as teak cleaners. These products work by stripping off the top layer of wood.
• Do not use steel wool or wire brushes to clean teakwood as the bristles can scratch teak furniture.
• Do not use a high-pressure sprayer hose to rinse teakwood. High water pressure can damage teak.
Difficulty: Moderately Easy
Instructions
Things You'll Need:
• Damp, soft cloth
• Dry, soft cloth
• Mild, oil-based soap
• Soft-bristle brush
• 1/2 capful high-phosphate laundry detergent
• 1 qt. ammonia
• Hose
• Teak oil
• Fine-grade sandpaper (optional)
1. Step 1
Remove loose dirt and other debris from teak by wiping with a slightly damp cloth. Wipe wood dry with a dry cloth.
2. Step 2
Apply a gentle, oil-based soap such as Murphy's Oil Soap to the furniture with a soft-bristle brush. Mild soap should remove most stains. For a deeper clean to remove mold or mildew, mix one qt. of sudsy ammonia and 1/2 capful high phosphate laundry detergent such as Wisk in a five-gallon bucket, and apply to the wood with a soft-bristle brush. The detergent removes dirt, and the ammonia neutralizes bacteria. Let the mixture sit on the wood for 5 to 15 minutes.
3. Step 3
Rinse teak thoroughly but gently with a hose. Let it air dry.
4. Step 4
Apply teak oil to dry, clean teak. Teak oil replenishes teak's natural oils to maintain that wood's smooth, satin-like finish. But be aware that oiled teak wood is more prone to develop mold and mildew, so clean it more often.
Tips & Warnings
• For easier stain removal, treat stains as soon as you notice them. The longer dirt, mold, mildew and other contaminants sit on wood, the harder they are to remove.
• Use fine-grade sandpaper to remove persistent or deep stains. Make sure to sand with the grain for natural-looking results.
• Avoid using acid-based cleansers, including products that are specifically advertised as teak cleaners. These products work by stripping off the top layer of wood.
• Do not use steel wool or wire brushes to clean teakwood as the bristles can scratch teak furniture.
• Do not use a high-pressure sprayer hose to rinse teakwood. High water pressure can damage teak.
Difficulty: Moderately Easy
Instructions
Things You'll Need:
• Damp, soft cloth
• Dry, soft cloth
• Mild, oil-based soap
• Soft-bristle brush
• 1/2 capful high-phosphate laundry detergent
• 1 qt. ammonia
• Hose
• Teak oil
• Fine-grade sandpaper (optional)
1. Step 1
Remove loose dirt and other debris from teak by wiping with a slightly damp cloth. Wipe wood dry with a dry cloth.
2. Step 2
Apply a gentle, oil-based soap such as Murphy's Oil Soap to the furniture with a soft-bristle brush. Mild soap should remove most stains. For a deeper clean to remove mold or mildew, mix one qt. of sudsy ammonia and 1/2 capful high phosphate laundry detergent such as Wisk in a five-gallon bucket, and apply to the wood with a soft-bristle brush. The detergent removes dirt, and the ammonia neutralizes bacteria. Let the mixture sit on the wood for 5 to 15 minutes.
3. Step 3
Rinse teak thoroughly but gently with a hose. Let it air dry.
4. Step 4
Apply teak oil to dry, clean teak. Teak oil replenishes teak's natural oils to maintain that wood's smooth, satin-like finish. But be aware that oiled teak wood is more prone to develop mold and mildew, so clean it more often.
yes, it is wood
Thanks for the replies. Yes, it is wood (the usual teak/holly).
What worries me about ii is that I just laid down about four or five coats of Varnish last Summer, so this would tend to make me believe it's getting wet from underneath. I guess I'll try sanding it down and see if that helps.
Thanks for the replies. Yes, it is wood (the usual teak/holly).
What worries me about ii is that I just laid down about four or five coats of Varnish last Summer, so this would tend to make me believe it's getting wet from underneath. I guess I'll try sanding it down and see if that helps.
Re: yes, it is wood
From what I can tell, my rudder seal is probably compromised. The floor is badly stained in the galley (dark stains) and there have been sole repairs there before. The only time I saw water there, and a significant amount of it, was in a following sea coming into my mooring. I went down and it was well flooded. Beyond the apparent damage there had been no indication of a source for the water before that. So I suggest you break out the hose and spray up the rudder shaft to see if you need to restuff your rudder stuffing box like I probably do.
From what I can tell, my rudder seal is probably compromised. The floor is badly stained in the galley (dark stains) and there have been sole repairs there before. The only time I saw water there, and a significant amount of it, was in a following sea coming into my mooring. I went down and it was well flooded. Beyond the apparent damage there had been no indication of a source for the water before that. So I suggest you break out the hose and spray up the rudder shaft to see if you need to restuff your rudder stuffing box like I probably do.
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