We had our seal trial & survey yesterday in beautiful San Diego, and the weather goddess smiled on us. We had sun, we had warmth and we had WIND! The boat in question is a terrific example of a 1990 (laid up in 1989) Vision 32. We also had a terrific surveyor (Kells Christian) and a great learning experience for everyone. We'll get the survey today or tomorrow, but I have a couple of questions I'd like to hear other V32 owners comment on: 1) Where are your batteries & how are they held down? 2) Has anyone experienced a water tank leak in the middle of the aft face of the fresh water tank, several inches above the outlet connection? Looks like a baffle might be welded there... 3) Does anyone have a spinnaker halyard run? Any details? 4) Does the stock rigid boom vang nominally have a spring in it to lift the boom up and act as a topping lift? Has anyone replaced the spring? 5) What size was the "standard" jib that came with your boat? The undated, early brochure I have located shows a hank-on 100%, while the brochure for the '92's (printed 2/92) indicates a 110% furling jib. 6) How are the bases of the foreward pulpit tubes anchored to the boat? 7) Has anyone moved their waterheater to a location other than centerline, below the dinette seating? 8) Can the unfolded section of the table be shimmed or something to bring it up to be even with the other side and generally make the table a bit more secure feeling? 9) How do you use the rope "locks" for the swim platform lockers? I don't see a cam cleat or anything to keep the line locked up in the cockpit locker. 10) Has anyone replaced their stern boarding ladder due to corrosion, Etc. How much$? Thanks to everyone for their help, and be ready for more questions as we get closer to the final moment... Fair winds!
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Some "Answers", Tom
I'll write in past tense since I had sold my V32 several years ago... 1. Batteries were in the port cockpit locker, under the removeable shelf. I had a group 31 and a group 24 or 27. They were in battery boxes, strapped down. 2. Your water tank could be showing early signs of old age. I replaced my tank.. twice. Not that hard, really. E-mail me if you ever need to do it. A little leak isn't worth messing with. 3. I know a couple of guys with spinnakers and gear. I had gear installed for a cruising chute. 4. Yes, the stock vang should have a spring and should hold the boom up. If not, it is broken. Hunter can probably steer you the right way. If not, think of a Garhauer replacement with ends made to fit the existing boom and mast fittings. That is what I am going to do on my 40.5 eventually. 5. I think I had a 110, roller-furled. 6. Don't remember. Did you look in the anchor locker?? 7. Ugly job. Think about it. 8. Mine was "even" with the other side. Check your hinges. 9. There are cleats in both cockpit lockers that the line from the transom lockers hold - downs are lead to.. or supposed to be. 10. How did it get that bad?? Hunter probably can do it. If not, any local S/S fabricator. The subsequent and able owner of my boat is in the directory. His name is Rodger Beard. He has done a lot. Tape drive sails, full suit. Instrumentation. Folding prop, etc. If you have some specific questions, I'm sure he will be happy to respond. I'm sure he's a lot better informed than I. You can reach him through this site. Good luck, Rick D.
I'll write in past tense since I had sold my V32 several years ago... 1. Batteries were in the port cockpit locker, under the removeable shelf. I had a group 31 and a group 24 or 27. They were in battery boxes, strapped down. 2. Your water tank could be showing early signs of old age. I replaced my tank.. twice. Not that hard, really. E-mail me if you ever need to do it. A little leak isn't worth messing with. 3. I know a couple of guys with spinnakers and gear. I had gear installed for a cruising chute. 4. Yes, the stock vang should have a spring and should hold the boom up. If not, it is broken. Hunter can probably steer you the right way. If not, think of a Garhauer replacement with ends made to fit the existing boom and mast fittings. That is what I am going to do on my 40.5 eventually. 5. I think I had a 110, roller-furled. 6. Don't remember. Did you look in the anchor locker?? 7. Ugly job. Think about it. 8. Mine was "even" with the other side. Check your hinges. 9. There are cleats in both cockpit lockers that the line from the transom lockers hold - downs are lead to.. or supposed to be. 10. How did it get that bad?? Hunter probably can do it. If not, any local S/S fabricator. The subsequent and able owner of my boat is in the directory. His name is Rodger Beard. He has done a lot. Tape drive sails, full suit. Instrumentation. Folding prop, etc. If you have some specific questions, I'm sure he will be happy to respond. I'm sure he's a lot better informed than I. You can reach him through this site. Good luck, Rick D.
A Few More Answers
Hi Tom, Sounds like your sea trial went well and you have the usual round of questions. Rick gave you good advice which I agree with. I'll give you my input. 1)Two batteries are in the bottom of the port cockpit locker under a wooden shelf. They ARE hard to reach, and hence, the water level doesn't get checked as often as it should. I have just installed a 12"x15" teak door in the rear bulkhead in the aft cabin to allow better access. 2)No problem with any of my tanks so far. 3)There should be a spinnaker halyard that comes out of the mast just above the headstay attachment. Its lower exit is on the starboard side of the mast about 8' up, and normally is cleated on a horn cleat installed on the starboard side of the mast at about the 5' level, directly below the exit. I have original Isomat drawings of the boom, vang, mast, showing location, rigging, ect. 4)Had my vang completely apart, and yes, there is a heavy spring inside. No magic here, just tubes with a spring. I also have the drawings showing how to rig it. The spring is heavy enough it should never break, but never is a long time. 5)Standard jib looks like a 110. 6)All pulpit tubes are anchored to the boat with a bolt run in thru the deck from the underside. There must be a captive nut welded into the tube base. I've never had problems or a leak, so it must be a lot stronger than it looks. I've also seen other makes use the same attachment methode. 7)Check the archives. I'm pretty sure I've read that some else has done this. 8)First, the 89' came with a flimsy mount. I changed is out with a heavier telescoping mount. The stock table has always worked fine for us, but you need to be careful when using it for a bed. If the hinges has pulled out of the table, its because of this. You need to pull the table support (the support for when the table is opened all the way up) out a couple of inches whenever using the table as a bed, in order to support this hinged area. I further support this area of the table (stearn center area of table not supported by the seats) with a tool box or something whenever I'm using it this way. 9)See Rick's comments. The cleats are horn type, and are in the rear cockpit lockers. If they have been removed, the screw holes should be there somewhere. I can help you locate them if you get the boat. 10)My stearn boarding ladder is in great shape. Follow Rick's advice. Hope this helps. Mike
Hi Tom, Sounds like your sea trial went well and you have the usual round of questions. Rick gave you good advice which I agree with. I'll give you my input. 1)Two batteries are in the bottom of the port cockpit locker under a wooden shelf. They ARE hard to reach, and hence, the water level doesn't get checked as often as it should. I have just installed a 12"x15" teak door in the rear bulkhead in the aft cabin to allow better access. 2)No problem with any of my tanks so far. 3)There should be a spinnaker halyard that comes out of the mast just above the headstay attachment. Its lower exit is on the starboard side of the mast about 8' up, and normally is cleated on a horn cleat installed on the starboard side of the mast at about the 5' level, directly below the exit. I have original Isomat drawings of the boom, vang, mast, showing location, rigging, ect. 4)Had my vang completely apart, and yes, there is a heavy spring inside. No magic here, just tubes with a spring. I also have the drawings showing how to rig it. The spring is heavy enough it should never break, but never is a long time. 5)Standard jib looks like a 110. 6)All pulpit tubes are anchored to the boat with a bolt run in thru the deck from the underside. There must be a captive nut welded into the tube base. I've never had problems or a leak, so it must be a lot stronger than it looks. I've also seen other makes use the same attachment methode. 7)Check the archives. I'm pretty sure I've read that some else has done this. 8)First, the 89' came with a flimsy mount. I changed is out with a heavier telescoping mount. The stock table has always worked fine for us, but you need to be careful when using it for a bed. If the hinges has pulled out of the table, its because of this. You need to pull the table support (the support for when the table is opened all the way up) out a couple of inches whenever using the table as a bed, in order to support this hinged area. I further support this area of the table (stearn center area of table not supported by the seats) with a tool box or something whenever I'm using it this way. 9)See Rick's comments. The cleats are horn type, and are in the rear cockpit lockers. If they have been removed, the screw holes should be there somewhere. I can help you locate them if you get the boat. 10)My stearn boarding ladder is in great shape. Follow Rick's advice. Hope this helps. Mike
Replacement ladders
Tom: If you need a new S.S. boarding ladder, check out Tops in Quality. They are in Michigan. You can find them on the web at (you guessed it) www.topsinquality.com
Tom: If you need a new S.S. boarding ladder, check out Tops in Quality. They are in Michigan. You can find them on the web at (you guessed it) www.topsinquality.com
Yes, everything did go well with the survey and...
we will probably become boat owners by the end of the month. Then the fun part, how to get the boat home, needs to be answered. Jean & especially Mike have been very helpful with the overland transport side of things. I wonder if anyone has any over water experience they'd like to share? As far as my questions to date: 1) ROE (Running on Empty) has her batteries the approved place, port side under the removable shelf. However, they need to be made more secure & I wanted to confirm this was the right place to do so. 2) Yes, it looks like the water tank is leaking at what might be a tack weld holding a baffle in place. I think a little exterior sealant will do the trick. 3) There is an exit for a spinny halyard, but no line is rove. 4) I figured the vang would stand in place of a topping lift, but it looks like the spring is sprung. (Mike-I did not review the manual the owner has, so the Isomat info may be there. Thanks for the offer & I'll let you know.) 5) The jib tore pretty good when the owner hoisted it, so he needs to buy a new jib. I thought the "stock" size was a 110, just wanted to confirm. 6) The pulpit downtubes were a little wobbily and there was evidence of rust in the holes in the deck. I'd want to remove the bolt (thanks mike!), R&R the tube and add some silicone seal or some other bedding compound to prevent water incursion. 7) The waterheater is probably a stock item in the stock place. Yanmar says that upper limit on hose length to a water heater is 2 meters, and I think Hunter violated that by a fair amount, so, I thought about moving it... Maybe not, though. Rick is right. It looks like an ugly job. 8) Tables. Thanks for your comments Mike. What kind of base did you replace it with? 9) Yes, I figured there was a cleat of some kind, I just need to look a little more closely for the dang things or maybe the holes where they were... 10) The boarding ladder was left in the water for a couple of months. It's got some ugly spots... That's all for now, I think. I'm going to try an post a few pics from the haul out today for fun (her bottom looked great, no blisters, good paint, no bubbles, the prop was fine, Etc. Yea!) Fair winds!
we will probably become boat owners by the end of the month. Then the fun part, how to get the boat home, needs to be answered. Jean & especially Mike have been very helpful with the overland transport side of things. I wonder if anyone has any over water experience they'd like to share? As far as my questions to date: 1) ROE (Running on Empty) has her batteries the approved place, port side under the removable shelf. However, they need to be made more secure & I wanted to confirm this was the right place to do so. 2) Yes, it looks like the water tank is leaking at what might be a tack weld holding a baffle in place. I think a little exterior sealant will do the trick. 3) There is an exit for a spinny halyard, but no line is rove. 4) I figured the vang would stand in place of a topping lift, but it looks like the spring is sprung. (Mike-I did not review the manual the owner has, so the Isomat info may be there. Thanks for the offer & I'll let you know.) 5) The jib tore pretty good when the owner hoisted it, so he needs to buy a new jib. I thought the "stock" size was a 110, just wanted to confirm. 6) The pulpit downtubes were a little wobbily and there was evidence of rust in the holes in the deck. I'd want to remove the bolt (thanks mike!), R&R the tube and add some silicone seal or some other bedding compound to prevent water incursion. 7) The waterheater is probably a stock item in the stock place. Yanmar says that upper limit on hose length to a water heater is 2 meters, and I think Hunter violated that by a fair amount, so, I thought about moving it... Maybe not, though. Rick is right. It looks like an ugly job. 8) Tables. Thanks for your comments Mike. What kind of base did you replace it with? 9) Yes, I figured there was a cleat of some kind, I just need to look a little more closely for the dang things or maybe the holes where they were... 10) The boarding ladder was left in the water for a couple of months. It's got some ugly spots... That's all for now, I think. I'm going to try an post a few pics from the haul out today for fun (her bottom looked great, no blisters, good paint, no bubbles, the prop was fine, Etc. Yea!) Fair winds!
Couple of thoughts....
.. . get some two-part marine epoxy. The kind that looks like a rolled piece of clay. You kick it off by cutting a piece and kneeding it between your hands. Try it on the water tank. It is great stuff to keep around for which you will find many uses. The stern ladder should clean up fine. Take it to a polishing shop; anywhere they do plating work. Try some good stainless polish first. I was going to suggest a larger jib, but for SFO, better stay with the 110. Speaking of which, be sure your reefing, which is single line, works well on BOTH reef points. You will use it in SFO. It is great to use, but you DO need the vang/boom lift properly operating to use it. This is especially important if you do a water delivery. Sounds like a good boat, and you will have great fun with it. We have friends that have a nice V32 in Stockton. Rick D.
.. . get some two-part marine epoxy. The kind that looks like a rolled piece of clay. You kick it off by cutting a piece and kneeding it between your hands. Try it on the water tank. It is great stuff to keep around for which you will find many uses. The stern ladder should clean up fine. Take it to a polishing shop; anywhere they do plating work. Try some good stainless polish first. I was going to suggest a larger jib, but for SFO, better stay with the 110. Speaking of which, be sure your reefing, which is single line, works well on BOTH reef points. You will use it in SFO. It is great to use, but you DO need the vang/boom lift properly operating to use it. This is especially important if you do a water delivery. Sounds like a good boat, and you will have great fun with it. We have friends that have a nice V32 in Stockton. Rick D.
Some More Thoughts on Issues
My batteries were moved to the starboard locker to make room for a genset in the port locker(4kW Ferrymann Disel works GREAT for running the AC in the Florida Sun). They are now in boxes, strapped to the floor. I have a third battery in the Starboard locker. Not the best place. Any overcharge puts fumes in the locker and it's not good on anything metal. My Vision had small line ran through the Spinnaker halyard line. Tied it off and ran it through. Without the line it's gonna be a challenge, but with the mast out it shouldn't be to bad. The original jib was 110% I have a 155% genoa on it now and man does she go. Had to put additional cars on the deck as the originals aren't long enough. A guy in Califorina races his V-32 and has a 129% (get's no penalty in PHRF) and works with existing car tracks. I called Hunter about the 155% and they said the mast will handle the load. So far so good up to 25k. My table (1991 V-32) has the heavy duty telescope mount. Guess Hunter learned a lesson here. The cleats as everyone else has said should be in the lockers. One other thing to check. The rudder cable deck cover on my boat was spongy. The water over the years seeped into the wood between the fiberglass and it rotted out. Just flipped it over and drilled some holes and used penetrating epoxy. It's stiff and good as new. Good Luck. You are going to LOVE the Vision. Best Wishes Rob S. "Endless Adventure" 1991 Vision 32 Jacksonville Florida
My batteries were moved to the starboard locker to make room for a genset in the port locker(4kW Ferrymann Disel works GREAT for running the AC in the Florida Sun). They are now in boxes, strapped to the floor. I have a third battery in the Starboard locker. Not the best place. Any overcharge puts fumes in the locker and it's not good on anything metal. My Vision had small line ran through the Spinnaker halyard line. Tied it off and ran it through. Without the line it's gonna be a challenge, but with the mast out it shouldn't be to bad. The original jib was 110% I have a 155% genoa on it now and man does she go. Had to put additional cars on the deck as the originals aren't long enough. A guy in Califorina races his V-32 and has a 129% (get's no penalty in PHRF) and works with existing car tracks. I called Hunter about the 155% and they said the mast will handle the load. So far so good up to 25k. My table (1991 V-32) has the heavy duty telescope mount. Guess Hunter learned a lesson here. The cleats as everyone else has said should be in the lockers. One other thing to check. The rudder cable deck cover on my boat was spongy. The water over the years seeped into the wood between the fiberglass and it rotted out. Just flipped it over and drilled some holes and used penetrating epoxy. It's stiff and good as new. Good Luck. You are going to LOVE the Vision. Best Wishes Rob S. "Endless Adventure" 1991 Vision 32 Jacksonville Florida
Regarding your vang question...
A great list of questions Tom and the answers others have provided is a textbook. There's real V32 expertise in this group! I do have one thing to add though, regarding the boom vang. Yeah, there is a spring combined with hard plastic cone assembly which is easy to get at and work with if you need to. My spring was "tired" after 12 years and was no longer performing the topping function as orginally spec'ed. Yours is probably in the same condition, since your-soon-to-be boat is the same age as mine. In my case, the vang was like this when I got the boat and for some time I just thought the boom was just designed to be low so that I could bang my head into it all the time <s>. Anyway, in the process of adding new sails my sailmaker (Rick McCredie, UK Sailmakers, Newport Beach, CA) took me under his wing, so to speak, and helped me bring the boat's performance up. One thing we (mostly he) did was to shorten the travel distance to the end of the plastic retainer tube in the vang to create more spring tension. This took all of 20 minutes and what an improvement it made! The boat sails much better in light air (I can shape the main much better) as the boom naturally now rises at least 18" higher when the vang is off. The only down side is that now I have to work a little harder to bang my head. Best, Rodger s/v Attitude Adjustment
A great list of questions Tom and the answers others have provided is a textbook. There's real V32 expertise in this group! I do have one thing to add though, regarding the boom vang. Yeah, there is a spring combined with hard plastic cone assembly which is easy to get at and work with if you need to. My spring was "tired" after 12 years and was no longer performing the topping function as orginally spec'ed. Yours is probably in the same condition, since your-soon-to-be boat is the same age as mine. In my case, the vang was like this when I got the boat and for some time I just thought the boom was just designed to be low so that I could bang my head into it all the time <s>. Anyway, in the process of adding new sails my sailmaker (Rick McCredie, UK Sailmakers, Newport Beach, CA) took me under his wing, so to speak, and helped me bring the boat's performance up. One thing we (mostly he) did was to shorten the travel distance to the end of the plastic retainer tube in the vang to create more spring tension. This took all of 20 minutes and what an improvement it made! The boat sails much better in light air (I can shape the main much better) as the boom naturally now rises at least 18" higher when the vang is off. The only down side is that now I have to work a little harder to bang my head. Best, Rodger s/v Attitude Adjustment
$$
I am in the market for V32 also, Could I ask how much you are buying this boat or what the market value is? Thanks.
I am in the market for V32 also, Could I ask how much you are buying this boat or what the market value is? Thanks.
Are you trucking home or sailing?
Tom: Have you decided to truck the boat to SF? I have a contact that sails in Transpac, Pacific Cup etc and may be interested in sailing the boat to SF for you. He is located in SD. If you are interested you can email or call. (steve@sdcsoftware.com)
Tom: Have you decided to truck the boat to SF? I have a contact that sails in Transpac, Pacific Cup etc and may be interested in sailing the boat to SF for you. He is located in SD. If you are interested you can email or call. (steve@sdcsoftware.com)
$$ is always too much, but what are you ...
going to do? My take at the moment is that a clean, well-maintained V32 0f 89-90 vintage should sell for between $41-45K. In California. By owner. If a broker is involved, figure another $4.5-5K. (in other words, +10%) The boat I am buying listed at 49.9K. Do the math. Alot depends on the owner. How long have they owned the boat? How many boats have they owned before? Why are they selling the boat? What do they use the boat for? Ask me again in another week or 10 days. We should close by then...
going to do? My take at the moment is that a clean, well-maintained V32 0f 89-90 vintage should sell for between $41-45K. In California. By owner. If a broker is involved, figure another $4.5-5K. (in other words, +10%) The boat I am buying listed at 49.9K. Do the math. Alot depends on the owner. How long have they owned the boat? How many boats have they owned before? Why are they selling the boat? What do they use the boat for? Ask me again in another week or 10 days. We should close by then...
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