Damper Plate Rattle
- Thread starter Witzend
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Got a new question for MS on this
MS, Any way to tell by looking at engine/transmission serial numbers whether we have R&D or Sachs?
Call Hansen Marine in Marblehead, MA they were the major Universal supplier to Catalina and know the motors and "C" specs better than anyone. Any Universal that ends in a "C" is a Catalina specific and spec'd motor like the M-25 XPB-C...
Hey RP,
You think you might be hearing the death rattle? Jeez... I hope not, what a PIA to repair. If there is anything I can do let me know. The sound is a clacking sound that will go away between 1200 and 1500 RPM. Also, while in gear see how much rotational play there is. It should be pretty tight, a few degrees at most.
You think you might be hearing the death rattle? Jeez... I hope not, what a PIA to repair. If there is anything I can do let me know. The sound is a clacking sound that will go away between 1200 and 1500 RPM. Also, while in gear see how much rotational play there is. It should be pretty tight, a few degrees at most.
This failure does not necessarily cause any additional vibration. It's the sound that you need to key in on. A metal to metal clacking sound quite different in nature from stern tub slap. It is loudest at idle and goes away proportionally when you increase RPMs. Also check for rotational play in the drive train.
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Witz, I've been following your posting and understand the function of the new spacer. Even though the RPM is low on the scale of engine uses I wondered if the whole assembly should be balanced before installation. Since you have moved the driven load to a different location I would be concerned about balance. We always balance our clutch, disc and flywheel assy's to preserve transmission input shaft bearings and crankshaft rear main bearings. Just a thought. Good Luck.
Ray
Ray
Ray, I was concerned about the same thing when I cooked up this solution. I ended up using an aluminum instead of stainless for the ring that I hand cut. This reduced the weight of the assembly and was easier to cut. I focused on making sure there was no run-out by mounting the assembly that was temporarily together with 2 small clamps, on the transmission input shaft. I then rotated it to insure that it was perfectly concentric before I drilled the holes for the bolts that would hold the new damper plate, adapter ring, and the old salvaged backing plate from the failed R&D damper plate together as one.
I have only 100hours on the assembly so far, but she runs smooth as butter with no clanking sound. I guess maybe I was lucky, because I had no way to balance it.
I have only 100hours on the assembly so far, but she runs smooth as butter with no clanking sound. I guess maybe I was lucky, because I had no way to balance it.
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Witz, Having seen the way you set it up I think it will be alright. The main bearings in your engine are very substantial and with the lower RPM it probably work out fine. It's a very clever solution.
Ray
Ray
Thanks Ray,
For the moment, it sure saved me a bunch of money, but I guess only time will tell.
I'm wondering how may other C310s used the R&D damper?
Another factor that I believe that lead to the problem was that there was a lateral alignment problem that became apparent when I installed the transmission. This misalignment did not change when rotating the engine telling me that I did not have a run-out problem, but I re-checked it anyway with the damper assembly mounted on the engine and it was spot on. Then I checked that the bell housing was seated all the way on the rear of the engine, and it was. So, I'm not sure how a casting was off, but something was not right. To solve the problem I had to adjust the alignment pin holes that received the pins from the transmission mounting plate in the bell housing to get it to slide in with no resistance. It could have been that the mounting plate was not made to spec as well.
With the damper plate inserted further into the spine it amplified this problem. I suspect that when it was originally assembled they just got the pins started and then cranked the bolts down loading up the interface. I was actually surprised that it did not damage the input shaft bearing on the transmission as well. When I checked it there was no play, no leaks, spun freely, and the fluid was clean.
For the moment, it sure saved me a bunch of money, but I guess only time will tell.
I'm wondering how may other C310s used the R&D damper?
Another factor that I believe that lead to the problem was that there was a lateral alignment problem that became apparent when I installed the transmission. This misalignment did not change when rotating the engine telling me that I did not have a run-out problem, but I re-checked it anyway with the damper assembly mounted on the engine and it was spot on. Then I checked that the bell housing was seated all the way on the rear of the engine, and it was. So, I'm not sure how a casting was off, but something was not right. To solve the problem I had to adjust the alignment pin holes that received the pins from the transmission mounting plate in the bell housing to get it to slide in with no resistance. It could have been that the mounting plate was not made to spec as well.
With the damper plate inserted further into the spine it amplified this problem. I suspect that when it was originally assembled they just got the pins started and then cranked the bolts down loading up the interface. I was actually surprised that it did not damage the input shaft bearing on the transmission as well. When I checked it there was no play, no leaks, spun freely, and the fluid was clean.
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Witz, Ray again. What did the pilot bushing or bearing look like in the end of the crankshaft? Did you replace it? That is the last item I could think of that would cause problems.
Ray
Ray
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