Ariving at end of cruise last summer I was tired so decided to rest a couple of days prior to pulling boat. After dinking to shore, the inflatable was lashed to the trailer bunkboards and later parked at my sisters home where likely the next day while we were gone, three of her grandchildren visited and took opportunity to play in the inflatable. It was a hot day and their combined weight would have been significant. At any rate, the joint between the bottom and the hull has seperated for about two feet in the bow area. There are no fabric tears. Is this a repair that can be done relatively easily or does it have to be professionaly repaired? Any insight will be appreciated...thanks.
damaged inflatable
- Thread starter Arlyn Stewart
- Start date
- Status
From what you describe...
that is what finally killed my old west marine inflatable. My seperation was much worse though, it extended about 6 foot along the seam, again no tears but when I took it to a shop, I was told that it'd be $700 to fix it and even then they weren't sure how long it would last. They suggested fixing it myself with some of the patch sealant made for the west marine (that whole hypalon vs pvc thing) dingy and see if that would work. In my case my dink came with my boat and was 14 years old, so I invested the $700 in a new achilles. Good Luck with your fix....
that is what finally killed my old west marine inflatable. My seperation was much worse though, it extended about 6 foot along the seam, again no tears but when I took it to a shop, I was told that it'd be $700 to fix it and even then they weren't sure how long it would last. They suggested fixing it myself with some of the patch sealant made for the west marine (that whole hypalon vs pvc thing) dingy and see if that would work. In my case my dink came with my boat and was 14 years old, so I invested the $700 in a new achilles. Good Luck with your fix....
I did that repair on my WM dingy while in Mexico
and hauled the dingy on the fore-deck to do it. I used 5200 on the loose flap and pumped up the air pressure. It took two days to dry. The new stuff dries much faster. It held until we gave it away two years later. And mine was leaking air until the fix.
and hauled the dingy on the fore-deck to do it. I used 5200 on the loose flap and pumped up the air pressure. It took two days to dry. The new stuff dries much faster. It held until we gave it away two years later. And mine was leaking air until the fix.
Had same problem 4 years ago
Repaired it with the appropriate materials and it's been fine since then. Make sure your adhesive is made for your boat material, i.e. for either hypalon or pvc. The two adhesives are not interchangeable. Make sure you surface is clean and it helps if you apply and hold pressure to the repair overnight. Clamps and boards worked in my situation.
Repaired it with the appropriate materials and it's been fine since then. Make sure your adhesive is made for your boat material, i.e. for either hypalon or pvc. The two adhesives are not interchangeable. Make sure you surface is clean and it helps if you apply and hold pressure to the repair overnight. Clamps and boards worked in my situation.
We used 5200 (or and good polyurethane)
for just the reasons Al mentions. The standard glue system requires lots of hoop jumping. When your running down the 'left' coast, well, 'things' happen. We found that a little 5200 over the hole, followed by a little spreading, (like peanut butter) and the patch was good to go. And most such repairs lasted at least a year, until we gave the dingy away. Did I mention flexibility? Blow up the tube and the stuff stretches.
for just the reasons Al mentions. The standard glue system requires lots of hoop jumping. When your running down the 'left' coast, well, 'things' happen. We found that a little 5200 over the hole, followed by a little spreading, (like peanut butter) and the patch was good to go. And most such repairs lasted at least a year, until we gave the dingy away. Did I mention flexibility? Blow up the tube and the stuff stretches.
- Status