Dagger Board Pipe Leak

[rich26nc]

I have a shoal draft 1984 O'Day 26 purchased a year and a half ago. The daggerboard line has never been replaced so some tips on that would be helpful. Need to do that in the lake so I suspect some scuba equip will be necessary. The immediate problem is the pipe leading into the keel that houses the daggerboard line. It wiggles and has a crack around 40% mainly on the underside. Does anyone know how that was fabricated or what the keel material is made from? I am hoping the keel housing that holds the lead is made from steel and not cast Iron. Also, if steel or cast iron, is the "pipe" coming from the keel cast as a part of the keel or has it been somehow attached, perhaps welded or brazed? The fiberglass will need to be ground away to get to the keel material. I have stopped the trickle leak using a length of oakum, a generous glob of below water line silicone and clamped that in place with a rubber pipe connector with the end cut off so only one of the clamps is used. Tightened it as much as possible and the leak stopped. Also took the wiggle out of the pipe and made for a firm connection. Surprised it worked as the repair was done on a conical shape and not simplp a round pipe. Any thoughts? Much appreciated.

 

[Ward H]

A while back someone was scrapping their O'day 25 and took autopsy photos. They showed slabs of lead encapsulated in fiberglass and resin. No steel or cast iron.
On my 1980 25 the pendant tube is fiberglass or plastic. It is held in place by fiberglass and resin and only slightly protrudes into the center board slot in the keel. Mine was well worn by the line so I glued in a SS bushing.
Inside the cabin the pipe is connected to a metal pipe by a short length of hose. That pipe then is connected to the cockpit thru hull by another short length of hose.
There is an epoxy putty that is made to seal leaks under water which may work but once you use silicone nothing will stick to it until you ground that surface away.

If that pipe can wiggle I would worry about it popping up while pulling up the CB creating quite a leak. I think I would have a plug and knife ready so if it happened, I could cut the line to clear the hole and pound in the plug.

As far as replacing the pendant line goes, if you were out of the water I would suggest dropping the CB, shackeling a new line with eye splice to it, cutting the old line, tapping the two together with a good but thin tape, then pulling it up to the cockpit.
With it in the water you could try to do the same thing but instead of tape you might want to try sewing the two ends together. Might be a task underwater.
Another way may be to drop the CB, tape the lines together in the cockpit, then use the old line to pull the new line down the tube. Have to make it an extra long line so you can pull it all the way up to the surface, put in an eye splice, then take it underwater and shackle it to the CB. You can then cut the extra line in the cockpit to the proper length needed.

I'm sure others have replaced the line while in the water so they may have better ideas.

I attached a photo of the pendant pipe inside the cabin and one showing the bottom of the pipe in the keel trunk slot. You can see where the line wore a groove in the pipe. I switched to the 1/4" line you see in the photo which was taken before I put in the bushing.

Hope all of this helps.

 

[rich26nc]

Hey Ward,

Thank you very much for your prompt and very helpful post. Little disturbed by the lead being encapsulated by fiberglass. But, a fiberglass repair is much easier to fix than a bolted keel. I'm encouraged. The boat has been moved from Kansas to North Carolina to Texas and although I was very mindful of the road conditions I am sure the break was aggravated by that last road trip. The repair should be possible with a simple haul out on the trailer and would not require lowering the mast. That is a relief. With the leak under control I can wait for cooler weather and likely do the whole thing myself. Fortunately I have joined a yacht club comprised of laid back knowledgeable sailors and hopefully I can also draw on their experience. Your photos are very helpful. Thank you again and happy sailing. Rich

 

[rich26nc]

Note on the pendant. Will likely follow your suggestion threading the pennant from the cockpit to the keel while in the water. Thought of using gorilla tape but stitching is a much better idea. Thank you again for all your helpful comments.

Rich

 

[rich26nc]

By the way I am not using the daggerboard and will refrain until repairs are made. Don't want to over stress the connection.

Rich

 

[Ward H]

Rich, The two first two seasons I sailed my 25 the center board spent more time stuck up than being down.
Finally this past spring I found the clevis pin on the shackle was too long. Someone had cut a longer pin and it was 5 mm longer than it should have been. That extra 5mm caused it to jam in the slot.
I put in the correct pin and this season it is working fine.
It is only needed in strong winds and you need to sail close hauled to the wind.
Also, if you have the standard 5/16 pendant line, Gorilla tape is too thick and won't allow the line to slide into the through hull. One wrap of electric tape is what I use.
Unless you mean your not pulling it up, which is fine also.

I think that repairing that loose tube will be a relatively easy project.

Have fun!

 

[rich26nc]

Hey Ward,
Thank you for your candor and insight. Your comments regarding the dissected O'Day are invaluable. I assumed the keel was bolted. Agree the fix is an easy one. Neither me or the previous owner has tried to lower the dagger board. May give it a try. Nothing ventured, nothing gained. I am a little concerned raising the dagger board may over stress the repair but it does seem fairly strong. Interesting history on this boat. Original owner purchased it and then stored it in his Grandmother's barn for 13 years while he adventured in Jamaica. Good women or good drugs? Who knows? Anyway boat cooked in a Kansas barn for that length of time. Result was numerous gel coat cracks and very expensive repairs after we bought it. Good thing is the standing rigging was not exposed to the weather and the diesel has very little wear. Love the way the boat sails but there is a lot of slippage to windward. Thanks for the tip on electrical tape. Swear by Gorilla Tape but will forgo it on this project.