Ok so the story is that I bought a 1990 Mac 26D about a month ago. It was in need of some TLC and I have been tackling things as I go. The current problem is that I’m pretty sure that the line to retract the dagger board is the original one from the factory. I’ve looked everywhere including YouTube and can’t find how to replace the line and I’m assuming a safety cable while sitting on a trailer. I found one but it must have been a different year because his came up through the top deck. Mine does not. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Dagger board line and cable replacement
- Thread starter Wingnuts
- Start date
Pictures or good description of where/how your control cable comes up?
Frayed dagger board rope | MacGregor Owners
It looks like the daggerboard lifts straight up out of the coachtop once the mast is down. If you don't have the control line coming out of the coachtop, are you sure you don't have the 26S?
-Will
Frayed dagger board rope | MacGregor Owners
It looks like the daggerboard lifts straight up out of the coachtop once the mast is down. If you don't have the control line coming out of the coachtop, are you sure you don't have the 26S?
-Will
I’ve replaced one on a Hunter 26.
if it is similar in principle then you have a bracket that sits inside the keel trunk. The bracket is held in place by a bolt accessed near the base of the galley table. You will need to put the boat in a sling .
Here is a writeup of the process on an H26. Hope it is similar enough to help.
if it is similar in principle then you have a bracket that sits inside the keel trunk. The bracket is held in place by a bolt accessed near the base of the galley table. You will need to put the boat in a sling .
Here is a writeup of the process on an H26. Hope it is similar enough to help.
Will I think MacGregor changed that at some point. I found a YouTube video that the dagger board came up through the deck but that was a 1988 26D the 1990 does not come up through the deck. According to the manual the boat needs to be lifted 3’ and then there is a bolt that needs removed to allow the dagger board to come free similar to what rgranger is talking about below. Problem is I live in the middle of a desert in UT and boat hoists are hard to come up with around here. I’m sure I can get it off the trailer and cribbed up but I’m not sure about safe lifting points to put the cribbing and jack. Here is the page out of the manual.
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Thanks G it is similar except the bolt is on the outside. Thanks MacGregor! The problem is as I stated in the previous post, I don’t have ready access to a hoist. There are a couple of larger lakes/ reservoirs that have them but they are a bit of a drive and seemed kind of iffy since I was not storing my boat there over the winter.
And here is what I did when restoring a Balboa 26
You can see the trailer in the foreground. I walked the trailer out a little as a time and bilt the "cradle" a little at a time.
You can see the trailer in the foreground. I walked the trailer out a little as a time and bilt the "cradle" a little at a time.
Hope it works out. I don't have any pictures, but I helped a friend lift a MacGregor 21 off its trailer using heavy-duty ratchet straps and a sturdy oak tree branch. We only raised it high enough to repaint the bottom, using a roller on an extension pole. No way was I crawling underneath that boat.
Whatever method you choose, an easy way to get started is to lower the trailer tongue as far as possible and place a solid brace under the transom. I've even used a picnic table for the transom brace (see picture). Then use the trailer jack to raise the tongue as high as it will go. This lifts the boat off the bunks so it's supported by the transom brace and the bow stop. At that point, you can slide straps underneath and begin lifting.
If you use straps to lift the boat, make sure they cannot slide forward or aft. Tie the lifting straps together fore and aft to keep them from slipping off the hull under load.
You'll also need at least one additional ratchet strap at each lifting point. Use the spare strap to hold the load while you release and reset the primary strap after the spool gets too full of strap to continue. Repeat the process until the boat reaches the height you need, then support it with sturdy homemade jack stands.
A stack of old automobile tires actually works very well as a support stand. I have some pictures of that setup somewhere if you'd like to see them.
Whatever method you choose, an easy way to get started is to lower the trailer tongue as far as possible and place a solid brace under the transom. I've even used a picnic table for the transom brace (see picture). Then use the trailer jack to raise the tongue as high as it will go. This lifts the boat off the bunks so it's supported by the transom brace and the bow stop. At that point, you can slide straps underneath and begin lifting.
If you use straps to lift the boat, make sure they cannot slide forward or aft. Tie the lifting straps together fore and aft to keep them from slipping off the hull under load.
You'll also need at least one additional ratchet strap at each lifting point. Use the spare strap to hold the load while you release and reset the primary strap after the spool gets too full of strap to continue. Repeat the process until the boat reaches the height you need, then support it with sturdy homemade jack stands.
A stack of old automobile tires actually works very well as a support stand. I have some pictures of that setup somewhere if you'd like to see them.