I wish to make some stainless steel backing plates for jib tracks and cleats that I'm installing on my boat. How do you suggest I cut them from some nearly 1/8" x 4" stock? I have a Dremel, a bandsaw, a miter saw, a table saw, and a jig saw. I don't have a grinder, but.... So what kind of blade for what? These backing plates are likely to be seen on the inside of my cabin, so I'm hoping for rounds corners and to be able to paint them the color of the cabin... Many thanks.
Cutting Stainless Steel backing plates
- Thread starter Rich L
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Have you already bought the stock?
If not, I would suggest using aluminum instead of stainless, even after you have the stainless cut you have to drill and tap your holes and that will be very difficult. All the builders use aluminum plates for backing plates as well. You have to be sure to coat your bolts to prevent seizing but I think you'd be better off. Good luck, Jim
If not, I would suggest using aluminum instead of stainless, even after you have the stainless cut you have to drill and tap your holes and that will be very difficult. All the builders use aluminum plates for backing plates as well. You have to be sure to coat your bolts to prevent seizing but I think you'd be better off. Good luck, Jim
carborundum blade
A carborundum blade for your miter saw will work best of the tools that you have. Round of the sides and edges with a large file.
A carborundum blade for your miter saw will work best of the tools that you have. Round of the sides and edges with a large file.
Since you ask, an 18 tooth
hacksaw blade in the best frame you can get will do a very nice job. A good single cut mill file ten inch or longer will let you smooth the edges and round the corners. You do have a heavy vise of course. What size fasteners do you plan to use?
hacksaw blade in the best frame you can get will do a very nice job. A good single cut mill file ten inch or longer will let you smooth the edges and round the corners. You do have a heavy vise of course. What size fasteners do you plan to use?
And for the Genoa track bolts just use washers.
A plate is overkill and a masochistic/sadistic killer. (take your pick) Just back the mooring cleats with aluminum plates.
A plate is overkill and a masochistic/sadistic killer. (take your pick) Just back the mooring cleats with aluminum plates.
Many thanks
I have bought the SS stock, but bought it on E-Bay and didn't pay too much. I'm gravitating toward the multiple suggestions of using aluminum, which would be a lot easier. I'm using 3/16" x 20 for tapping the mast and 1/4" x 20 for cleats and jib tracks through the deck. Will make sure I coat the screws to insulate them from the aluminum. Many thanks!
I have bought the SS stock, but bought it on E-Bay and didn't pay too much. I'm gravitating toward the multiple suggestions of using aluminum, which would be a lot easier. I'm using 3/16" x 20 for tapping the mast and 1/4" x 20 for cleats and jib tracks through the deck. Will make sure I coat the screws to insulate them from the aluminum. Many thanks!
Use barrel nuts for the tracks
What I used on my genoa and jib tracks were barrel nuts with a nice big washer. Barrel nuts are nuts with a phillips head. You have to trim the bolts to the right length, but it makes for a nice clean look inside. I think I ended getting mine from Jamestown Distributors - much cheaper than the parts bins at the local boating stores. (See the link below for pictures.)
What I used on my genoa and jib tracks were barrel nuts with a nice big washer. Barrel nuts are nuts with a phillips head. You have to trim the bolts to the right length, but it makes for a nice clean look inside. I think I ended getting mine from Jamestown Distributors - much cheaper than the parts bins at the local boating stores. (See the link below for pictures.)
consider using polyethelene cutting boards
You can buy plastic cutting boards to cut up for backing or as a shim under your thin metal backing plates. easy to work and will blend in well with white interiors. Can't be painted or glued with good results. Not UV protected but will last long enough. Note: don't overtighten your stainless bolts/nuts, the threads seize and must be cut off to remove sometimes.
You can buy plastic cutting boards to cut up for backing or as a shim under your thin metal backing plates. easy to work and will blend in well with white interiors. Can't be painted or glued with good results. Not UV protected but will last long enough. Note: don't overtighten your stainless bolts/nuts, the threads seize and must be cut off to remove sometimes.
Don't use polyethylene as a backing plate
It is weak and easily compressible and not generally suitable to back anything structural. The same could be said about most other soft plastics. THINK!
It is weak and easily compressible and not generally suitable to back anything structural. The same could be said about most other soft plastics. THINK!
Thanks Fred
The teak cover for the bolts in the cabin is a good idea. Will have to give it a little thought for my application, but it should work... Like your boat project pages - a lot of work! Hey, anybody that likes dogs and old Camaros (I had a '68) is good in my book!
The teak cover for the bolts in the cabin is a good idea. Will have to give it a little thought for my application, but it should work... Like your boat project pages - a lot of work! Hey, anybody that likes dogs and old Camaros (I had a '68) is good in my book!
barrel nuts
Steve Rose - I like your idea of barrel nuts, too. Significantly less work than teak cover strips, plus the nuts could be painted and hardly be noticed - very flush to the ceiling. Thanks for looking up the link for me. It's a winner. Besides, I'm not near the handyman that Fred is(who could claim to be that handy!).
Steve Rose - I like your idea of barrel nuts, too. Significantly less work than teak cover strips, plus the nuts could be painted and hardly be noticed - very flush to the ceiling. Thanks for looking up the link for me. It's a winner. Besides, I'm not near the handyman that Fred is(who could claim to be that handy!).
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