Cutting off the hatch flange to make flat base????

[Hump Day]

I have a 1982 Hunter 27 That has two hatches. A forward Trapezoidal hatch and an midship rectangle hatch. Both are aged, broken, leaky and need replacing. I've searched the archives about possible replacements and the only thing I find is information about buying a new one (which is 50% of the cost I have in the boat and not an idea that I'm considering) or build a new one out of wood. I'm not interested in the wood idea either. I want something that looks nicer than that and not a homemade job.

I've found a post that an owner bought a new Lewmar Ocean 60 series flat based hatch that just sat on top, sealed and secured down. I'm not having any luck finding a used flat base hatch but, there have been several hatches that would have worked with a flange base.

The question.... Does anyone know if I can just take a grinder or metal saw and cut off the flange and then install the hatch as if it were a flat base??? Anyone done this before??

 

[Ken Cross]

I haven't done it, but I suspect you would need to stiffen it. The flange adds significant stiffness.

Our hatch is about 1/2 inch thick smoked plastic. It seems plenty stiff and a local plastics supplier should be able to provide it depending on where you live. It also lets some light in.
Ken

 

[woodster]

if this is an extruded frame not a good idea if it is cast you could do it and get away with it
bomar makes a cast hatch that comes with or without the flange the only dif is the flange...i got lucky i found a bomar cast 19x19 hatch that need some cosmetic work and a new lens for 1/2 a boat buck in a salvage yard

 

[Ted]

Hatch flange

I've done exactally what you are proposing to do using Lewmar hatches with extruded aluminum frames. The flange acts as trim around the opening in the deck. Although the flange will add stiffness to the hatch frame, the frame is primarily supported by the deck of your boat. If the deck is structurally sound, there is no reason you need the flange. If the base of the hatch frame does not fit flush with the deck you will need to make sure it is uniformilly supported by building a curb around the deck opening. If the hatch frame is almost flush with the deck, set the frame in a thick bed of sealant. Support the frame with some spacers while the sealant dries and before you do your fiinal through bolting. You don't want to have all the sealant squish out while you tighten the bolts.

 

[Stu Jackson]

Sealant should be replaced with butyl tape. I re-bed my saloon hatch with it and the product is perfect for that application. I used two strips for the necessary depth. Seriously consider NOT using sealant.