Thanks, I have both. So far I've been using a wood saw 12 inch wiith one rounded end normally used in cutting installed panels or floor boards. It worked ok but needs a lot of effort and blunts the saw. I have to remove most of the aft birth trays to get at a leaking ballast tank.I found the best tool(s) to be an angle grinder and/or Dremel tool with a cutting wheel (depends on how much cutting and how precise you want to be).
Cruiser 1 Thanks I have all the equipment you mentioned. A Dewalt make. Also thin and thick discs for welding and masonary jobs, will try both and also look for fibre glass ones. Cutting one inch above the ballast tank will need a steady hand with the cutter guard resting on the fibre glassI have found cutting discs on the angle grinder to work best on straight line cuts and a rotary burr on the Dremel for any work with curves. I have not tried the dremel disks but they may be OK on more gradual curves.
My angle grinder is an old but good Makita 4 1/2" and I used 2.5mm thick Flexovit discs - slice through the fibreglass like buttter. The spindle arbour is 2mm thick and thus won't take the 1mm discs (I assume the newer machines must have a thinner abour). I suspect the thinner the disc the better. Look for disc suited to cutting fibreglass. .
TB, sounds like you're talking about a sawz-all. They certainly will cut, but without a steady hand they can be brutal.One of those dodads the cut by moving back and forth work great with little dust.
I wish I knew what they are called, better yet I wish I had one.
I really like my Dremmel Multimate for cutting fiber glass. I bought the copy from Harbor Freight to keep on the boat. It cuts quickly. accurately and with little to no airborne dust.Is this what you mean, tb?
http://www.harborfreight.com/oscillating-multifunction-power-tool-68303.html
I did it was disaterous. Couldn't sink the blade to the base so had it at an angle. Tried various blades even ones I had cut short. It shattered the gell kept jumping out breaking the blades and I couldn't keep a straight line. Two tools I stay away from as much as possible. Hand held jig saws and routers, other than dremmels. I will post progress or otherwise.Finally, depending on the depth and complexity of the cut, you may want to try a jigsaw set to a shallow blade depth, with a fine-tooth blade.
Is this what you mean, tb?
http://www.harborfreight.com/oscillating-multifunction-power-tool-68303.html
Sorry Mic, I should have mentioned that it is a good idea to put gaffer/masking tape on the area to be cut and draw your cutting lines on the tape. I actually used Nashua Gaffer's 357 gaffer tape (made by Tyco Adhesives). It is the most fantastic gaffer tape know and will stick really well. When I cut the bench top out to install a flush mount Origo stove there was no chipping of the gelcoat at all using a 2mm disc on the angle grinder. A 40m roll of 48mm Gaffer's 357 costs about $15 out here but is probably much cheaper over your side of town.I did it was disaterous. Couldn't sink the blade to the base so had it at an angle. Tried various blades even ones I had cut short. It shattered the gell kept jumping out breaking the blades and I couldn't keep a straight line.
Touche ----"BEST"--- should have read easiestIf you have the room, a router will finish the edges way better than any saw (you said the BEST way).