Cutting an access panel into 9.2 C Mast base for wiring connections?

[capcass]

Has anyone cut an access panel into the side of a 9.2C mast base to access wiring connections? I am considering doing this to avoid the need to unstep the mast. I intend to use a remote inspection camera through the vang bolt hole to determine optimum placement, but I am concerned that the size panel needed (2" x 3") may compromise integrity. Any experience or suggestions are appreciated. Thanks, Capt. Gary Cassidy, 9.2 C "Wind Chaser".

 

[Mark Maulden]

You might get more responses if you post in the "ask all sailors" forum as its not really an S2 specific issue. Why do you need to "access" wiring in the mast at deck level? If you're adding more, and planning on going through the deck, you're going through a cored deck so bed well. Then what are you going to do with it inside? There's nowhere to run it out of sight if aesthetics are of any concern. You're not going to degrade the mast. Look at the halyard exits...it shouldnt cost much to demast. Talk to a yard or rigger and combine it with other boats doing the same and share crane costs. (What i did).....

 

[BobM]

Chances are that your boat should have the mast dropped and the rigging replaced anyway. Delaying this maintenance will likely just cost you in the long run. I did...and if I had addressed it earlier I might have saved myself the painful record job I need to do now, because my connection was made external through the deck core improperly by a previous owner and it leaked...even after I resealed it. Or it could be coming in through a mast bolt.

 

[Richard Bryer]

I cut a rectangle shaped opening in the base of my mast several years ago. It is about 2"X3". I covered it with a curved piece of SS with screws at each corner. The reason I did it was to be able to connect and disconnect wiring when putting the mast up or taking it down which we do each year after launch and haulout. Having to have hands under a lifted and hanging mast was something I wanted to not have to do. If you look at Fred Ficarra's website http://epitomesrebuild.com/ picture 100 shows his removable cover that I patterned mine after

 

[capcass]

Thanks for the replies. I prefer not to unstep the mast because the cost here in the Long Island is substantial and I want to keep the wiring connections inside the mast. Having the access panel allows me to access connections at any time in the future without having to unstep the mast while keeping the connections protected from the weather. Riggers have suggested exiting the wires a few inches from the base and running them through the deck, but this will compromise the core. I appreciate all the replies and suggestions, but am especially reassured by Richard's, as he has actually done what I am considering without any apparent problem. The photo at Fred Ficarra's site are also helpful. Thanks. Does anyone know the manufacturer of the S2 9.2C mast?

 

[woodster]

Does anyone know the manufacturer of the S2 9.2C mast?

mine was made by Metal Mast company ....they are no longer in business....some of the later models were by someone else ..not sure who that is .....i drilled a hole through the mast support base on my deck and glassed in a frp stand pipe large enough to just drop my electrical line down into the head where they then go over to the port side in a channel to the far port side and back to the nav station ....i also use those nice automotive pin connectors suggested by mainsail for the wire splicing ...got them from summit racing along with the crimping tool i am on a new laptop and don't have the pics loaded yet but as soon as i do i will add them to this post or you can look in the archives for the pics i have posted earlier

 

[JamesG161]

Has anyone cut an access panel into the side of a 9.2C mast base to access wiring connections?

The worst place to cut a hole in a aluminum mast is at its base. The base is the highest force stress area, needing the most metal to resist the stress. If you cut, never cut a rectangle with 90° corners. Drill out the corners first and then cut to the "dots/holes", thus leaving round turns and not sharp corners. Sharp turns create "stress risers" or crack makers.
You might contact a professional rigger for advice.
Jim...

 

[Mark Maulden]

The downfall of the British Comet (airplane) decades ago...square windows that developed stress cracks

 

[woodster]

if you must cut the hole ...take a 1 1/2 inch hole saw and drill the holes 1 1/2 inch apart from the center of each hole...that will make you 3 inch by 1 1/2 inch hole with full 180 degree ends ...and your straight sides will be 1 1/2 inch ...make sure you make the hole in the up and down ( perpendicular) not parallel to the deck

 

[capcass]

I ordered a fiber optic remote camera to insert through the vang bale pin hole to insect the condition of the connectors before deciding if cutting the window will allow me enough access to the connectors to make the necessary repairs. I had planned to cut the window as Woody and Jim suggest. I believe my mast is a Metal Mast product. All the recommendations are very helpful. Local rigger advises against cutting a window, but he suggests removing the mas at least every 3 years to inspect the inside mast bottom for corrosion anyway. This can also be inspected with the camera. How often do others unstep their masts for routine inspection? I have owned several boats and known many sailors that don't unstep their masts for over 10 years without any probelms. Thanks.

 

[JamesG161]

Local rigger advises against cutting a window, but he suggests removing the mas at least every 3 years to inspect the inside mast bottom for corrosion anyway.

If the rigger is familiar with your boat's mast, listen to him.
My Z-Spar mast is extruded and anodized, Aluminum. If the inside of yours is well drained, corrosion should not be and issue. If you mast has welds, maybe.

BTW there is an access panel inside my boat directly below the mast and offset to access my wires.
Good luck.
Jim...

 

[J Ivories]

I don't have an access panel on the mast of my S2 9.2A, but wish I did now, as I have a VHF antenna connection in there which is faulty, and reception is poor. Unstepping my mast (about $250, and same for stepping in Spring, which is a lot), was a real pain: the small tunnel that fit lights & radar was way too tight, making for a stressful stepping. But I just had to bore out that tunnel with a file and Dremel, and now it's a breeze. I try to unstep every 3 years at least b/c there's always some other mast project to do, or maintenance. And it's better for the boat to be stored without mast pulling on chain plates & rigging all winter. I did put in an internal spin halyard last year which meant cutting a whole for the exit plate, maybe 1.5 x 3? Important to spray screws to protect from corrosion from corrosion caused by different metals.