Drill and retap the buggered set screws......
To remove the bearing, remove the shaft, use a hacksaw/holder and make a cut all the way through the bearing (along the longitudinal axis), then use a drift pin through the set screw holes to crush the bearing. The set screws are only a back-up to restrain the bearing in case it gets hot. What holds the bearing in place is a press fit - the bearing is 0,001" / inch of housing diameter *larger* than the bore of the hole in the strut. You force the larger OD bearing into the ID of the bore - ie.: a 1.500" OD bearing woud fit into a ~1.4985" hole. The *press fit* keeps the bearing in place. The set screws are there only for 'safety'. For the buggered set screws, just drill through, trying not to drill out the threads, then run a tap into the bore to dress the threads, etc. Its good practice to clean/dress the shaft so that all the surface galling is removed and to produce a super-smooth bearing surface, then using a micrometer measure the shaft and measure the ID of the bore in the strut. Take the dimensions to the bearing dealer/manufacturer and let them calculate the dimensions AFTER you press fit the bearing into the strut --- which should after pressing it into the strut develop an operating clearance of about 0,003" for every 1" of shaft diameter. ..... then realign the engine for perfect/true running of the cutless bearing.
