Cutlass Bearing

[rchuyck]

What is the accetable amout of slop in a cutlass bearing. I just purchased a 84 Hunter 27 and it seems like the prop shaft has about .080 of movement. The follow on question, how do you remove it along with the shaft.

Thanks

Randy Huyck

 

[Warren Milberg]

In my mind, you do not want any movement in the cutlass bearing, other than it being able to smoothly rotate when the shaft is turning. Replacing the bearing is one of those jobs that can go easily -- or it can be a real PITA. Don't even attempt this yourself unless you know you are able to disconnect the transmission coupling. These couplings may or may not come apart easily, but are often frozen. Take a look at the link for the general concept of replacing the cutlass bearing. I did this on my H28.5 last year and, after disconnecting the trans coupling, I simply dropped the strut (4 bolts) and took the whole thing home to work on in my basement. Measure your strut opening for the new bearing yourself rather than asking others what the right size is. The new bearing must be the right size. You also may want to check the archives on this topic as a lot of useful info has been posted on this topic recently.

 

[rchuyck]

Thanks for the info.

I have already had to remove the engine to get at a leaking fuel tank, so the transmission coupling is split apart. Theere is still one half of the coupling on the shaft going out of the boat. That looks like it may be a bit of a bugger to get off. I did read one post that gave me some ideas on removing it. What about the packing around the shaft as it exits the boat, don't worry or repack?

I have removed one of the prop nuts, and need to get the other removed. I am hoping that the prop will come off without too much trouble. It sounds like you need to drop the rudder as well, it that much of a chore with the steering gear/cables?

 

[rchuyck]

Correct me if I am off base. With the engine removed, I should be able to withdraw the shaft into the boat and not need to remove the rudder. I could then remove the strut, replace those bolts and "easily" get the bearing replaced.

What about the shaft packing as it enters the hull. Should it be replaced while I am there.

Thanks for the help

 

[JD20791]

another method

We made the tool following the directions in the following link. Fortunatly my friend had the resources at work to get one made. It took about 30 min. on average to change out 3 bearings. Two 28.5s and a 30.

http://www.catalina310.org/Maintenance/Maintenance/Cutlass_bearing/Cutlassbearingremovaltool.htm

 

[Manny]

Randy, your idea may work...

If you can get the prop off. You'll need a prop puller to remove it. With the engine out the shaft will slide through. The only problem I see is accessing the nuts holding the strut (at least if your 27' has the same strut set up as mine). If you do go through all that, change out the shaft log hose (about $12 for the hose) and repack the stuffing box.

Manny

 

[rchuyck]

Cutlass Bearing issues

Manny

Thanks for the help. I worked on the prop last night without a puller, not much sucess. I am plnning on finding a puller today and taking off the prop. The bolts holding the strut are fairly easy to get at, right behind the fuel tank. I can reach them from the access hole in the port quarter berth. I haven't looked into the stuffing box yet, I am assuming it isn't much of a project. What did you use to reseal the strut when you reinstalled it?

Thanks again

 

[rchuyck]

Shaft hose

Manny

Where did you purchase your stuffing box material, the shaft hose and bearing. I have been looking at West Marine, they have numerous sleeve bearings available, but are there other sources that would be better?

 

[Manny]

I went to a mom & pop shop to get the hose & packing

I've never removed the strut on my 27, my cutlass bearing is in good shape. I did replace what appeared to be the original shaft log hose with buck Algonquin hose when I rebuilt my transmission. It is pretty straightforward to do but it did take a lot of energy to get the hose on. I used Teflon packing. West marine is expensive but they are convenient, this site has a chandlery which may have what you need, or try Defender.

Manny

 

[Manny]

Oh yeah

You asked about what to use to seal the strut when reinstalling it. I'd probably use 3M's 4000 but even that may be too aggressive. Others here can probably give you a better answer.

Manny

 

[rchuyck]

Strut sealing

Manny

Thanks for the info. Last night I pulled the prop off and removed the 2 set screws without too much problems. The set screws were metric, or at least worn so a metric allen wrench fit tight in them. Tonight it's on to removing the bearing and getting ready to repack the stuffing box. It seems that everyone is using 3/16 packing, how much did you use? Granted you used the teflon, but it seems that traditional packing is still needed.

I ordered the bearing and packing from this site, the prices were way better than West Marine. I live in Minneapolis and looked for a local source for both. I stopped by 2 sailboat dealers and they had no clue as to what a cutlass bearing even was, kind of sad!

Thanks again.

Randy

 

[jtm]

cutlass and strut

I had to get/borrow a "prop knocker" to back off the shaft. its sorta like a "y" yoke that intersects the shaft just before the prop and it has a sort of anvil on the forward side of the angled Y so you can wack it and bump the shaft out.

You might want to purchase 4 new quality stainless steel bolts for the strut. I found that 2 of my 4 were suffering from galvanic action and compromised half the width of the bolt shaft!

 

[Gary]

If your engine is out pull the shaft into the boat then take a hack saw and cut through the bearing in two places, the bearing is made of bronze and is easy to cut.If you remove strut you may have to reline everything up.

 

[rchuyck]

Gary

That's exactly what I ended up doing. I pulled the shaft into the boat and cut the old bearing in half with a hack saw blade. Once I had it split it relieved the pressure on it and was easy to remove. While the shaft was out I cleaned up the packing nut and replaced the shaft hose. It looked a bit tired after being in the boat from the factory. I will be putting the bearing back in tonight and be able to button up the engine compartment. I am installing new reflective insulation as well, the old stuff was falling off the sides. Should look darn near new when I am done.

Thanks for the help