Need some exp on removing and replacing a cutlass bearing on my Hunter 27. Need to know if the rudder has to come off or if theres another way around it. Any special tools required?
- Status
- Not open for further replies.
D
David Krozier
H27 cutlass bearing
To replace the cutlass bearing you have to remove the shaft. Since the engine is in front, the only way to slide the shaft is backwards and the rudder is right in the way. Removing the shaft means removing the rusted boats on the coupling. I was able to remove the four bolts holding the two coupling plates together easily. But I could not remove the bolt that locks the shaft to the coupling so I cut the shaft in two places- took 10 minutes. A new shaft cost $150 but I saved tons of aggravation. The rudder cannot be removed out the bottom when the boat is on stands unless you dig a hole under the rudder or lift up the boat. Once you have the shaft out, there are two set screws holding the bearing. A hacksaw judiciously applied to cut a slot in the old bearing will let you collapse the bearing and remove it. While you are at it replace the packing in the shaft seal - as the only way to do this on the H27 is to pull the shaft. David H27 'Renegade' renegade@naisp.net
To replace the cutlass bearing you have to remove the shaft. Since the engine is in front, the only way to slide the shaft is backwards and the rudder is right in the way. Removing the shaft means removing the rusted boats on the coupling. I was able to remove the four bolts holding the two coupling plates together easily. But I could not remove the bolt that locks the shaft to the coupling so I cut the shaft in two places- took 10 minutes. A new shaft cost $150 but I saved tons of aggravation. The rudder cannot be removed out the bottom when the boat is on stands unless you dig a hole under the rudder or lift up the boat. Once you have the shaft out, there are two set screws holding the bearing. A hacksaw judiciously applied to cut a slot in the old bearing will let you collapse the bearing and remove it. While you are at it replace the packing in the shaft seal - as the only way to do this on the H27 is to pull the shaft. David H27 'Renegade' renegade@naisp.net
B
Bob E.
Alternative?
I remember reading a post a long time ago about a boatyard that had a tool that could drive out the old cutlass bearing and drive in the new one without removing the shaft. All that was required was removing the prop. This might not apply to your boat model. You might find something about this in the archives.
I remember reading a post a long time ago about a boatyard that had a tool that could drive out the old cutlass bearing and drive in the new one without removing the shaft. All that was required was removing the prop. This might not apply to your boat model. You might find something about this in the archives.
S
SteveC
How about this....
I am not familiar with the 27' but is it possible to remove the strut?? This would probably be 4 bolts. You could remove the prop, remove the strut and slide it off the end of the shaft, and work on it at home. Naturally you would have to support the shaft while this is all going on..
I am not familiar with the 27' but is it possible to remove the strut?? This would probably be 4 bolts. You could remove the prop, remove the strut and slide it off the end of the shaft, and work on it at home. Naturally you would have to support the shaft while this is all going on..
M
Mike
This is way I did it
I removed the prop and then the strut. The bolts on the strut are a little hard to get but I got to them from the q-berth. When I got the strut off I put in in a press and pressed the old one out . Took me about an hour to do this good look.
I removed the prop and then the strut. The bolts on the strut are a little hard to get but I got to them from the q-berth. When I got the strut off I put in in a press and pressed the old one out . Took me about an hour to do this good look.
W
wperry@deltavilleyachts.com
1 hour???
Did you really remove your prop,remove your strut,press out the cutlass bearing,clean strut of caulk,reinstall bearing,caulk and reinstall strut (without someone holding nuts)and put prop back on,tighten and pin in just one Hour??? If you did I would like to hire you.
Did you really remove your prop,remove your strut,press out the cutlass bearing,clean strut of caulk,reinstall bearing,caulk and reinstall strut (without someone holding nuts)and put prop back on,tighten and pin in just one Hour??? If you did I would like to hire you.
J
Jack Laird
This works.
Remove prop. Remove Zink on shaft. Unbolt Strut, bolts inside, reach from quarter bunk. Slide strut off shaft. Have old cutlass removed and new pressed in at machine shop. Reinstall all, new zink please. Not a bad job just one of those things.
Remove prop. Remove Zink on shaft. Unbolt Strut, bolts inside, reach from quarter bunk. Slide strut off shaft. Have old cutlass removed and new pressed in at machine shop. Reinstall all, new zink please. Not a bad job just one of those things.
M
Mike
Yes
I did have someone hold the nuts for me when I put it back but I own my on shop I service oudoor power eq.
I did have someone hold the nuts for me when I put it back but I own my on shop I service oudoor power eq.
C
Carl Palermo
Thanks Everyone!
After considering all the great responses, I took a look at the strut from the Q-berth inside. It appears that it's been R
After considering all the great responses, I took a look at the strut from the Q-berth inside. It appears that it's been R
W
Warren Renninger
Ice the Bearing
Pull the prop, remove the strut nuts from the inside, tap out bolts, remove strut. Carefully drivebearing out (I found a deep socket that worked to drive old bearing out. Clean strut bearing surface. Put new bearing in freezer overnight. Heat strut in oven. When ready, drop bearing in strut and tap into place. Worked for me. Only problem I found was aligning the strut and prop shaft when tightening the strut into place. May need to shim strut. I later realized that the prior owner had used washers under strut to shim strut into position when tightened down. I didn't put them back and need to swap out bearing after 3 years. Mine had a washer under the aft bolts. Good luck
Pull the prop, remove the strut nuts from the inside, tap out bolts, remove strut. Carefully drivebearing out (I found a deep socket that worked to drive old bearing out. Clean strut bearing surface. Put new bearing in freezer overnight. Heat strut in oven. When ready, drop bearing in strut and tap into place. Worked for me. Only problem I found was aligning the strut and prop shaft when tightening the strut into place. May need to shim strut. I later realized that the prior owner had used washers under strut to shim strut into position when tightened down. I didn't put them back and need to swap out bearing after 3 years. Mine had a washer under the aft bolts. Good luck
- Status
- Not open for further replies.