I have a "Frozen propeller stuffing box on a 1996 P-42. I decided the easiest way to fix it is to pull the shaft and Replace it since Hunter only charges $50 for this beauty. While I'm at it, it seems reasonable to replace the cutlass bearing since they're relatively cheap also. Has anyone tackled this project and have any helpful advice for a neophyte? Appreciate it.
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Lube it up.
Mine is plastic so it is still a good as the day it was made. (86) Guys on this site have been able to apply penetrating oil to the log and work it loose easily. Sure beats the job you are talking about. Just getting the coupling off the shaft is big time work. Wiggle your shaft from the prop end and look at the cutlass. If it shows little free play, lube that shaft log.
Mine is plastic so it is still a good as the day it was made. (86) Guys on this site have been able to apply penetrating oil to the log and work it loose easily. Sure beats the job you are talking about. Just getting the coupling off the shaft is big time work. Wiggle your shaft from the prop end and look at the cutlass. If it shows little free play, lube that shaft log.
Re: Cutlass Bearing
With the shaft out, pressing out the cutlass and in with a new one is a piece of cake. Your yard may lend you the screw press or you can rent it at the rental shop. Its a 10 minute job. BTW I would recommend you install a dripless shaft seal while youre at it. Never have to worry about repacking again
With the shaft out, pressing out the cutlass and in with a new one is a piece of cake. Your yard may lend you the screw press or you can rent it at the rental shop. Its a 10 minute job. BTW I would recommend you install a dripless shaft seal while youre at it. Never have to worry about repacking again
the truth
This isn't a ten minute job.To get the shaft out you have to drop the rudder. The cutless bearing can be very difficult to remove. Then you have to realign the shaft after reinstalling it. Don't forget to repack the stuffing box after you replace it.
This isn't a ten minute job.To get the shaft out you have to drop the rudder. The cutless bearing can be very difficult to remove. Then you have to realign the shaft after reinstalling it. Don't forget to repack the stuffing box after you replace it.
The Rest of the Story
Removing my cutlass bearing took longer than ten minutes. I had to run a hach saw through and cut it to get it free. Forget the dripless shaft seal. It is expensive and very over rated. You stuffing box will last 50-100 years if you repack it every decade.
Removing my cutlass bearing took longer than ten minutes. I had to run a hach saw through and cut it to get it free. Forget the dripless shaft seal. It is expensive and very over rated. You stuffing box will last 50-100 years if you repack it every decade.
Well, Daryl of the United States
All it's supposed to do is keep water out. It does. So, I don't see how it is over rated. I used teflon packing once and it worked pretty good except it had to be tightened more often than flax. I then had dripless packing installed but found the stock stuffing box would not accept the larger packing, so had to replace it. It still leaked more than I wanted, so I replaced it with a PSS. Since then I have installed two more. As to expense, it doesn't seem too very expensive at a couple of hundred dollars compared to other boat gear. I just replaced the bellows on my current one with 1400 hours. The one I took off looks new. Having said that, the downside is to remember to burp it when you launch and to be sure the shaft alignment is correct. It just depends how much the bilge water annoys you. I do agree that the strut bearing can be a bear to replace, but with the proper press, it should be quick (notwithstanding the two hours the yard just charged me). Anyhow, I just wanted to point out that some of us do think it's a good product and well worth the cost. Rick D.
All it's supposed to do is keep water out. It does. So, I don't see how it is over rated. I used teflon packing once and it worked pretty good except it had to be tightened more often than flax. I then had dripless packing installed but found the stock stuffing box would not accept the larger packing, so had to replace it. It still leaked more than I wanted, so I replaced it with a PSS. Since then I have installed two more. As to expense, it doesn't seem too very expensive at a couple of hundred dollars compared to other boat gear. I just replaced the bellows on my current one with 1400 hours. The one I took off looks new. Having said that, the downside is to remember to burp it when you launch and to be sure the shaft alignment is correct. It just depends how much the bilge water annoys you. I do agree that the strut bearing can be a bear to replace, but with the proper press, it should be quick (notwithstanding the two hours the yard just charged me). Anyhow, I just wanted to point out that some of us do think it's a good product and well worth the cost. Rick D.
Well Rick ....
If I had a couple of hundred dollars to throw away I'd put it in my new boat fund so I could upgrade the Hunter. That said, my stuffing box is 21 years old. Think your pricey dripless will last that long? I can change packing in the water (every ten years). Can you change you dripless system while floating? Change your bellows already? My stuffing box has the original hose on it (regularly inspected and it's fine). What do you do when yours fails if you're not near a travel lift? I know several folks who have bought more than one of these for the same boat. If your bilge pump never comes on are you sure it still works? There's a lot to be said for keeping things simple but I'm glad folks like you keep the economy going. I'm sure there is only a few hundred percent markup on a PSS.
If I had a couple of hundred dollars to throw away I'd put it in my new boat fund so I could upgrade the Hunter. That said, my stuffing box is 21 years old. Think your pricey dripless will last that long? I can change packing in the water (every ten years). Can you change you dripless system while floating? Change your bellows already? My stuffing box has the original hose on it (regularly inspected and it's fine). What do you do when yours fails if you're not near a travel lift? I know several folks who have bought more than one of these for the same boat. If your bilge pump never comes on are you sure it still works? There's a lot to be said for keeping things simple but I'm glad folks like you keep the economy going. I'm sure there is only a few hundred percent markup on a PSS.
Well Rick, some of Daryls' points sorta make sense
I had bad luck with one of the first designs of the PSS seal, but that was in the '80s. My dripless packing is doing great. It fit fine and I've never had to adjust it. But you know Daryle, IMHO if you spend some of that cash you like to keep from putting into your Hunter, on some needed repairs, YOU WOULD HAVE A HELL OF A LOT LESS TO COMPLAIN ABOUT! (shouting intended)
I had bad luck with one of the first designs of the PSS seal, but that was in the '80s. My dripless packing is doing great. It fit fine and I've never had to adjust it. But you know Daryle, IMHO if you spend some of that cash you like to keep from putting into your Hunter, on some needed repairs, YOU WOULD HAVE A HELL OF A LOT LESS TO COMPLAIN ABOUT! (shouting intended)
Getting back to the point
I replaced mine on my P42 last year. I could not even get the prop off without special tools. Gave up and had the yard do it and I do all my own repairs to make sure I know how everything works. I had the rudder off for other work and decided to take the opportunity to replace the bearing.
I replaced mine on my P42 last year. I could not even get the prop off without special tools. Gave up and had the yard do it and I do all my own repairs to make sure I know how everything works. I had the rudder off for other work and decided to take the opportunity to replace the bearing.
You Don't Need To Pull The Rudder On A 42
The prop and strut are about 6 feet in front of the rudder on a 42. You can take the drive flange off of the prop shaft and pull the whole works out and you will never even get close to the rudder. After that, changing the cutlass bearing should be fairly easy. Getting the flange off is another matter. The only way to get access is take out the lower 8D to get some room to work and even then it is a miserable place to do anything. You will have so many nicks on your arms from the hose clamps on the cockpit drains and the engine and generator sea water sources that it will look like you got into a battle with a platoon of man eating mice, and lost. Wrap every one of them with tape to protect your arms, and they will still bite you. You can get the flange off the prop shaft by using a socket that is slightly smaller than the prop shaft and then using bolts to pull the flange against the transmission flange. You have to use progressively shorter bolts or you will put the end of a bolt through the transmission case if you are not careful. It is not a terrible job, just a terrible place to work. Good luck.
The prop and strut are about 6 feet in front of the rudder on a 42. You can take the drive flange off of the prop shaft and pull the whole works out and you will never even get close to the rudder. After that, changing the cutlass bearing should be fairly easy. Getting the flange off is another matter. The only way to get access is take out the lower 8D to get some room to work and even then it is a miserable place to do anything. You will have so many nicks on your arms from the hose clamps on the cockpit drains and the engine and generator sea water sources that it will look like you got into a battle with a platoon of man eating mice, and lost. Wrap every one of them with tape to protect your arms, and they will still bite you. You can get the flange off the prop shaft by using a socket that is slightly smaller than the prop shaft and then using bolts to pull the flange against the transmission flange. You have to use progressively shorter bolts or you will put the end of a bolt through the transmission case if you are not careful. It is not a terrible job, just a terrible place to work. Good luck.
Re: cutlass bearing
Well, I guess I just got lucky!! Removing the bearing only requires removing the prop. They make a pressing tool to remove the bearing with the shaft in place. Loosen the 2 retaining screws on the side of the strut and press off the bearing. Same tool is used for installing. If need be you can heat the strut to ease removal.
Well, I guess I just got lucky!! Removing the bearing only requires removing the prop. They make a pressing tool to remove the bearing with the shaft in place. Loosen the 2 retaining screws on the side of the strut and press off the bearing. Same tool is used for installing. If need be you can heat the strut to ease removal.
That is the way the yard does it.
Fred: The yard doesn't pull the shaft each time they change a cutlass bearing. They remove the prop, loosen the set screws, press out the bearing and reverse the project. Normally about an hour or so plus the price of a bearing. Hardly worth messing with it myself.
Fred: The yard doesn't pull the shaft each time they change a cutlass bearing. They remove the prop, loosen the set screws, press out the bearing and reverse the project. Normally about an hour or so plus the price of a bearing. Hardly worth messing with it myself.
Steve, It sounds great. But what do I ask for,
next time I need to replace my cutlass? What is the tool called?
next time I need to replace my cutlass? What is the tool called?
Fred, I don't want one so how would I know?
Fred: I really could not be bothered to own the tool that may be used once ever 10-15 years. I cannot pull the boat either. I have them pull it, wash the bottom, paint it, check things out and splash it. If it needs a cutlass, they install that at the time. The cutlass replacement adds about $60-80 plus the bearing to a bottom job. We just had the first one replaced about 3 years ago on our 1985 H'31.
Fred: I really could not be bothered to own the tool that may be used once ever 10-15 years. I cannot pull the boat either. I have them pull it, wash the bottom, paint it, check things out and splash it. If it needs a cutlass, they install that at the time. The cutlass replacement adds about $60-80 plus the bearing to a bottom job. We just had the first one replaced about 3 years ago on our 1985 H'31.
Fred
My local boat yard had it and because we have a good relationship, they lent it to me. But Steve is right that it usually pays to let the yard do the job. It's like trying to fix your own car. What you do takes 5hrs, what the repair shop does takes 1 hour because he has the knowhow and the special tools to make the job easier.
My local boat yard had it and because we have a good relationship, they lent it to me. But Steve is right that it usually pays to let the yard do the job. It's like trying to fix your own car. What you do takes 5hrs, what the repair shop does takes 1 hour because he has the knowhow and the special tools to make the job easier.
Fred; since nobody has answered your question...
The tool is called a "bearing extractor" or "bearing puller". Since we are talking about the "cutless" (often misnamed or misspelled as "cutlass") bearing, one can get a wealth of information by Googling for these various terms (see attached link). Like all bearing, pulley, propeller and axle extractors one needs on a boat from time to time it is relatively easy to make a contraption of long bolts and big stainless steel washers plus small tubes or plates that will do the job. Some ideas and diagrams can no doubt be found on the linked websites. Success! Flying Dutchman
The tool is called a "bearing extractor" or "bearing puller". Since we are talking about the "cutless" (often misnamed or misspelled as "cutlass") bearing, one can get a wealth of information by Googling for these various terms (see attached link). Like all bearing, pulley, propeller and axle extractors one needs on a boat from time to time it is relatively easy to make a contraption of long bolts and big stainless steel washers plus small tubes or plates that will do the job. Some ideas and diagrams can no doubt be found on the linked websites. Success! Flying Dutchman
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