Cutlass bearing Hunter 34

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Richard

I have a 1983 Hunter 34. At low engine rpm there is a vibration / rattling sound in gear. As rpms increase the noise gets more quiet but there is still a growling sound at the the rear of the boat. We suspect the cutlass bearing is the problem. Where the shaft comes out of the boat is a metal ring that the shaft appears to be rubbing one side. The boat yard suggests the the cutlass bearing needs to be replaced. Any suggestions? Does the rudder need to be dropped to replace the cutlass bearing? I have checked some of this forum and can't find an exact answer. Thanks Richard
 
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Daryl

H34 Cutlass Bearing

First you need to determine how much free play is in the bearing. As I remember it can be up to 1/8 inch. Vibration can also be caused by engine misalignment issues or bent hardware (prop or shaft) Motor mounts are rubber and need replacement especially if they are original. I suspect the motor is way out of alignment if the shaft rubs on the exit housing. A few yards have a tool that can press the bearing out with the shaft in place. I did mine myself but removed the shaft and rudder to get it accomplished. It was not fun or easy
 
Dec 2, 2003
4,245
- - Seabeck WA
Boats are so much fun

The cutlass is the last place to check. First is alignment, then alignment, then align,,, You get the idea. The shaft position in the shaftlog is determined by the strut. Then the engine is aligned to that. Fun.
 
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Richard Bryer

Three ways

There are three ways that I could think of to get my shaft out to replace the cutless bearing- drop the rudder, remove the strut, or lift the motor After finding the soil in the boat yard was about 6" thick then the rest was fill- concrete, rocks etc. , I took a look at removing the strut but was concerned about getting it back on in exactly the same position- so I lifted the motor. Was pretty easy- there are lifting eyes on the top ( it is a Yanmar) , used a short length of chain, a couple of 2X4s nailed together accoss the companionway and tied to the winches so they would not slide, hooked on my preventer. undid the top nuts on the mounts and up she can. I only lifted it just high enough to get the shaft and flange out so I did not have to ddisconnect anything ( except the flange from the tranny- make sure you do that first). if you are careful about the balance when you hook up the chain it will set right back down on the mounts when you let it down.
 
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vinn

propeller shaft

did mine last winter for similar reasons. a special cutless bearing puller is needed for removal, and insertion. the shaft doesn't have to come out, just the propeller has to come off. before you waste your time, dive under the boat with a lite, and ck the shaft alignment through the stern tube. if its not rubbing, ck the cutless bearing for play. try to shake the prop, if there's any play at all you need a cutless bearing! if every thing is tight it could be a bent shaft, or engine alignment. both will wear out the bearing prematurely. good luck, the fun has just begun.
 

Alan

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Jun 2, 2004
4,174
Hunter 35.5 LI, NY
I've done all of them

The tool that vinn talks about is by far the easiest method. The whole job takes about an hour. No need to remove anything except the prop. Cutlass bearings should last for years. If yours is failing prematurely you need to correct that reason as well as replacing the bearing. Engine alignment is the most likely cause and motor mounts are what cause misalignment. Shaft alignment cannot be done on the hard. It MUST be done in the water and only after the hull has been there for a few weeks. The hull will flex and reshape itself on the hard giving a misalignment if adjustments are made out of water.
 
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