Next time try a 'better alignment'
Set the cutless in its housing and start the alignment from this point.
Before you start, be sure to PULL THE SHAFT and examine the journal surfaces where the cutless and packing run are FLAT, contain no roughness, no cracks, etc. If the surfaces of the shaft are not absolutely flat, you will not allow the correct 'film of water' to support the shaft inside the cutless ... and you will get adverse wear. Always remove and inspect the shaft when replacing the cutless, especially if you've developed a history of premature cutless failure.
After cutless bearing installation:
1. 'orbit' the shaft from the coupler end so that you are sure tHat the shaft is running 'true' in the bearing. Install the shaft, take a hold of the shaft at the coupler end and make a 'circle' using constant hand pressure ... find the approximation of the center of the orbit of coupler end and restrain it with wooden wedges, etc. This will insure that the shaft is true and is running 'concentric' with ALL surfaces of the cutless. If you dont do this the shaft may bear only at the ends of the cutless (promoting adverse wear - instead of equal wear along the entire surface of the cutless bearing.
2. Set the packing in the stuffing box ... but insure that the packing is not installed so that it induces 'side loads' into the shaft (which promotes 'shaft whip'. Install the packing (GFO preferred) so that it 'slides' into the stuffing box .... you dont want to 'ram' it into the box (which may induce 'side loads' on the shaft)- you may need to 'reform' the packing slight by tapping on it with a hammer to flatten a 'side' of the packing to affect a 'slide-fit'. Then tighten the stuffing box gland and remove the wooden wedges that held the shaft coincentric with the cutless bearing.
3. Now align the engine to perfection .... coupler to engine transmission flange, etc.
If you dont set the concentricity of the shaft to the cutless .... it may not be 'riding' equally along the whole surface of the bearing; and, although this is a hydrodynamic bearing where the a film of water inside the bearing supports and maintains 'clearance' between the shaft and bearing ... the more uniform the concentricity will promote less 'crashes' of the spinning shaft into the cutless surface - because there is more of a uniform 'film of water' to support the spinning shaft.
If the cutless housing has been 'reamed out' or the shaft has been 'dressed' (roughness at the journals removed) ... then you might need a smaller ID bearing. I maintain that an 'installed' cutless should have an (installed) clearance with the shaft of aapprox. 0,005 inches per inch of shaft diameter .... you can only do this if the shaft is running 'true' inside the cutless.
