Cutlass Bearing Dimensions???

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streamfisherman100

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Jan 14, 2007
23
Recently I beached my Vega (Alpha Lira, V1863) to scrape the bottom and check the rudder, prop shaft, propeller etc... The prop shaft had more play than I'm comfortable with so I think it's time to replace the cutlass bearing. As I understand it, I need the outer and inner dimensions and length. The previous owner installed a Westerbeke 12 C two engine so I'm not sure if the shaft is the same size as original. I was thinking if I had the length and outer diameter I could measure the prop shaft diameter and be able to figure out a suitable replacement. Pricing around, it appears cutlass bearings range from starting at $130 from West Marine down to around $50 online (Defender). Any recommended brands?

Also, if there are any Vega specific tips to this replacement I'd be very appreciative. Me and a couple friends are taking off work for a couple months to cruise the Bahamas from Charleston and I'm trying to make sure any possible maintenance is done before we leave the U.S.
 
J

johnadenney

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Oct 30, 2011
221
Hi, I am just doing the same job. I believe Vesconite rod is used to make the stern bearing. The Vesconite is about £20 for a 12 inch length. The prop shaft is 1 inch diameter (25mm) - the external diameter of the bearing is 30mm and the bearing is 58mm long.
Vesconite is easy to machine and is self lubricating and will not swell underwater.
 
J

johnadenney

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Oct 30, 2011
221
Yes.... I believe Steve Birch (Steve@...) supplies them
already machined, or you can buy a piece of 30mm vescomite rod and get
it bored out to the diameter of the prop shaft which is 1 inch (25 and
a bit mm).
Just to check.... we are talking about the stern bearing.... just in
front of the prop, inside a housing held on by a couple of allen bolts?
 
T

tim_klynn

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Feb 12, 2008
337
I bought a replacement cutlass bearing from Steve Birch and it worked fine. I forget what it cost, but it was much less than $100. -Tim
________________________________
From: streamfisherman100 streamfisherman100@...
To: AlbinVega@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, February 22, 2012 4:52 AM
Subject: [AlbinVega] Re: Cutlass Bearing Dimensions???



Thanks for the quick reply. Are you suggesting I buy a piece of rod and take it to a shop to have it cut to specifications?
 
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stevebirch2002

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Nov 8, 2001
1,818
Hi

You need to ensure the diameter of your shaft. Most shafts that have been changed in the US have swapped from metric (25mm) to Imperial (1").

I can make you a bearing but you need to ensure that the bearing housing has not been modified.

I now have bearings in stock for standard 25mm shafts in unmodified housings. For those that have ordered (and paid!) they will be winging there way today or tomorrow.

Cheers

Steve B
 
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stevebirch2002

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Nov 8, 2001
1,818
Hi all

The stern bearing housing on teh Series II and Series III is as John as
explained but teh older Series I is a non-removeable tube that needs teh old
bearing removing and a new one pushed in (Lump of wood and hammer). Bearing
sizes are still the same.

I now have them in stock and ready to go.

Cheers

Steve B
 
J

johnadenney

.
Oct 30, 2011
221
Just a thought.... the old stern bearing has holes drilled in it to
allow water lubrication. Does the new replacement need to have holes
drilled as well?

I have also noticed that the stern tube has a bit of wear on it at the
bearing surface. (it is a new-ish one - I have the original which was
very badly worn) I assume all sorts of grit and sand get at this
bearing surface and cause it to wear away the steel combi tube. Has
anyone found a way to reduce this wear?

John
 
S

streamfisherman100

.
Jan 14, 2007
23
Thanks so much Steve, $25 dollars is a lot more in my budget! Do you ship to the U.S regularly and know the cost and time frame of regularly priced shipping? I will go out to the boat today with some calipers to measure the shaft.

Another quick question. While I'm on the boat today, I was planning on taking the top cap off my fuel tank to get my arm down in it and clean any sludge out with some rags (already pumped out the fuel). There appear to be about 8 or 10 flathead bolts holding the cap on. Is there a special gasket I'm going to have to have when I put it back on? Is this a good way to clean the tank?
 
V

Vega1447

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Oct 19, 2019
921
Albin Vega 27 Limerick
Hi - I did this recently.

If you have a plastic Vetus tank as I do, there is a brass collar inside
the tank with threaded holes corresponding to the 6-8 (in my case) bolts.

One of the bolts is longer than the others - you can discover which by
alternately removing & replacing them.

Remove all but the long bolt & swing the collar out of the way still
held by the long bolt and you will be able to clean the bottom of the tank.

I used baby nappies/diapers soaked in isopropyl alcohol.

There was/is a rubber gasket between the stainless steel top plate and
the topside of the tank.

John V1447 Breakaway

PS if you let the collar fall to the bottom of the tank it is a major
pita to secure it back in place...
 
P

pjacobs55

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Oct 30, 2019
1,459
My Vega, a Series I, was converted to a Yanmar 2GMF with a 1" shaft and a conventional gearbox/prop arrangement. When I replaced the cutlass bearing I had to shorten it a bit as it was too long ... a simple lathe job but a hacksaw will do the trick just as well. It has slotted rubber inside, allowing water to cool it.

There's also a water intake hole in the hull right by the front end of the bearing to assist water flow. It's quite small and can get plugged by antifouling easily when you paint.


I used a long piece of 1/2" threaded rod with various washers and a large socket to remove the bearing.

I don't know if this is a common way to do things, but it's what I have and it works fine.

Hope this helps,
Peter.
#1331 'Sin Tacha'
 
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stevebirch2002

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Nov 8, 2001
1,818
Hi

Postage is about $5

The gasket on teh fuel tank is quite robust so just be careful and DONT drop any of the screws! I suspect you will end up taking the tank out to clean and then refit, much easier.

Cheers

Steve B
 
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