CS 30 Winter Tarp Frame

[2 OLD PIRATES]

Well rather be too soon than to late. I'm looking at building a frame for a tarp for winterizing. There seems to be 2 ways to go. 1 or 2 inch PVC or 3/4 or 1 inch aluminum electrical conduit. The boat is a CS30. Does anyone happen to have plans of how to construct one of these frames. Just wondering if one was better than the other and what diffculties some may have had with either.

Cheers
Irish Rogure

 

[alexco38]

Galvanized electrical pipes and Tarp

Irish Rogue,

Tube is Electrical Conduit (Nedco electrical supply @ Evans and Kipling), much cheaper than aluminium. You'll need a pipe bender from Home Depot (electrical section).

Tarp is Western Tarpaulin http://www.westerntarp.com/ (Belfield road @ Kipling) custom made for about $450ish. Material used for dump trucks. Has 4 air vents. The tarp uses webbing instead of grommet to prevent chafing the gelcoat.

The stern is open so I can get inside. A separate tarp is used to cover it.

Total cost about $600-700. A lot less than marine canvas shop.

 

[2 OLD PIRATES]

Thanks for the info ...... that is very helpful. I have a Nedco very close to home.

Hi alexo38 ....... any chance you know what is under the head. I took out a Stainless steel bolt, (not a lag bolt but machine thread) about 2 inches. It was very stiff coming out. Do you happen to know what is under there?

Cheers
Irish Rogue

 

[alexco38]

There's supposed to be an aluminium plate. The PO replaced the head with a Jabsco so I can't be sure. You can always drill a small hole (under the base) to see what's on the drill bit when you pull it out.

If there is metal, you can tap it again. If not, you can drill an access hole (may be an inch or 2) under the biggest part of the base and make a piece of SS plate with a taped hole on the end and stick it in. Dab a little glue so it won't fall inside the hole.
If the access hole is under the base, you won't see it afterwards.

BTW, I didn't like the PVC or ABS pipes for frame. They are so bulky and must stay with 45 or 90 degrees bend. Make sure the frame leave at least 6 inches outside of the stanchion. The wind and tarp can bend Stanchions. Ask me how I knew!

 

[2 OLD PIRATES]

Hi alexco38; I dig what your saying about the PVC or ABS pipes for frame. " Make sure the frame leave at least 6 inches outside of the stanchion " ???. I noticed in your photos that the uprights along the toe rails are sitting on the boat, the pipes seem to be over top of your Stanchions. When you mean 6" is that outside of the beam of the boat or 6" on either side of the Stanchions.

Cheers
Irish Rogue

P.S. I notice your ports are only 2 on each side ....... what year is it or was that a custom job?

 

[alexco38]

That photo was my 1st tried. The frame has subsequently bent outward by 6 inches to clear the top of the stanchion.

Before I bent the frame outward, I used to remove the stanchion which is a pain.

PO changed them to open port. I love it.

 

[pogo2]

My first frame was a 2" plt run from bow to stern and I took 3/4 electrical plt conduet and put 1/4" line thru it and tied one end to a rail laid the conduet over the 2" main and then tied that to the opposit rail worked good for about 4 years then I got a custom cover , much better

 

[2 OLD PIRATES]

:dance:Thanks Guys ....... I'm in the process of getting it started. Your feed back and picturers have been very helpful.

CHEERS
Irish Rogue