I own a 1986 HUNTER31. I have the opportunity to purchase a used cruising spinnaker w/sleeve for $500.00. The sail is from a Catalina 30 and is approx. 5 years old. The sail looks like it has been hardly used. Can this be used on my boat? Judging from what is see as new prices makes this " too good to be true" And you know the saying: if it is too good to be true....
- Status
It depends
You will need to compare your Luff length to that of the catalina. Catalinas come with a standard and a tall rig so the sail might be too big for your boat. Secondly is your boat equipped to use it. The spinnaker halyard needs to be hoisted forward of your headstay and the tack needs to be forward of your roller furling if you have one. On my O'Day I installed a masthead bracket with a block for the halyard problem, see what you need for your Hunter. The sails are not that expensive because they are made from very lightweight ripstop nylon and it is very easy to sew. I built my own from a sailrite kit. It is great in winds up to about 12 knots. After that it gets a little wild and hard to handle taking it down (I don't have a sock). dave
You will need to compare your Luff length to that of the catalina. Catalinas come with a standard and a tall rig so the sail might be too big for your boat. Secondly is your boat equipped to use it. The spinnaker halyard needs to be hoisted forward of your headstay and the tack needs to be forward of your roller furling if you have one. On my O'Day I installed a masthead bracket with a block for the halyard problem, see what you need for your Hunter. The sails are not that expensive because they are made from very lightweight ripstop nylon and it is very easy to sew. I built my own from a sailrite kit. It is great in winds up to about 12 knots. After that it gets a little wild and hard to handle taking it down (I don't have a sock). dave
Probably OK if Luff is OK
If the luff is too long, it won't work. Any sailmaker would be glad to shorten the luff for you, if needed, I'm sure. Otherwise, no problem. Ours is rigged as follows: - Short (5-6 foot) line on the tack ending in a snap shackle. We wrap this line around the windward side of the top rail of the bow pulpit, and then snap the shackle to the toe rail. We move it on the toerail to adjust luff tension. Tight on a near reach, loose on a broad reach. (You can run the line back to the cabin later to make frequent adjustments easy.) Dave got the halyard rigging correct. If there is not already a place forward of the forestay, it's easy to add a bail to mount a free twisting shackle. You need a winch on the mast for the halyard, a clete for the halyard, and a clete for the sock line. (Could be the same one if it is big enough.) The sheet goes from the clew to a snap shackle in the last hole of the leeward toerail, then forward to your leeward sheet winch. _All_ spinnaker rigging goes outside/forward of all other standing or running rigging. That's it! You gybe as follows: 1. Drop the sock. 2. Free the sheet from the stern shackle, and move the shackle to the other side. 3. Walk the sheet forward, coiling it outside all rigging. 4. Shift the sheet and sock around the front of the forestay. 5. Move the tack line to the other side. 6. Walk the sheet back, uncoiling it outside all rigging. Snap it in the shackle, and run it to the winch. 7. Gybe the Main. 8. Hoist the sock on the new gybe. While this sounds like a lot of time to gybe, we very seldom gybe while cruising. On the other hand, switching to from the jib to the spinnaker is very simple. We rig the spinnaker in its sock before leaving port if in doubt about which sail we will use, then just furl the jib/genny and raise the sock when we want the spinnaker. The reverse operation is just as easy. You can sail on the genny with the sock up, although we usually get around to dropping it to avoid dirtying the air around the genny. Enjoy your new sail - we love ours, because it converts about 20% of our cruising time from the iron genny to sailing. And we love how it looks! David Lady Lillie
If the luff is too long, it won't work. Any sailmaker would be glad to shorten the luff for you, if needed, I'm sure. Otherwise, no problem. Ours is rigged as follows: - Short (5-6 foot) line on the tack ending in a snap shackle. We wrap this line around the windward side of the top rail of the bow pulpit, and then snap the shackle to the toe rail. We move it on the toerail to adjust luff tension. Tight on a near reach, loose on a broad reach. (You can run the line back to the cabin later to make frequent adjustments easy.) Dave got the halyard rigging correct. If there is not already a place forward of the forestay, it's easy to add a bail to mount a free twisting shackle. You need a winch on the mast for the halyard, a clete for the halyard, and a clete for the sock line. (Could be the same one if it is big enough.) The sheet goes from the clew to a snap shackle in the last hole of the leeward toerail, then forward to your leeward sheet winch. _All_ spinnaker rigging goes outside/forward of all other standing or running rigging. That's it! You gybe as follows: 1. Drop the sock. 2. Free the sheet from the stern shackle, and move the shackle to the other side. 3. Walk the sheet forward, coiling it outside all rigging. 4. Shift the sheet and sock around the front of the forestay. 5. Move the tack line to the other side. 6. Walk the sheet back, uncoiling it outside all rigging. Snap it in the shackle, and run it to the winch. 7. Gybe the Main. 8. Hoist the sock on the new gybe. While this sounds like a lot of time to gybe, we very seldom gybe while cruising. On the other hand, switching to from the jib to the spinnaker is very simple. We rig the spinnaker in its sock before leaving port if in doubt about which sail we will use, then just furl the jib/genny and raise the sock when we want the spinnaker. The reverse operation is just as easy. You can sail on the genny with the sock up, although we usually get around to dropping it to avoid dirtying the air around the genny. Enjoy your new sail - we love ours, because it converts about 20% of our cruising time from the iron genny to sailing. And we love how it looks! David Lady Lillie
Certainly
As the others observed, the luff is the issue. If it's too big, any sail shop can shorten it in a jiffy. If it's too small, what the heck. A comparable spin with sleeve could run you $2,500. Cosmetically, you might ask what it looks like, that is the color scheme and whether it has some goofy drawing of Saddam or such. Otherwise, steal that spin!
As the others observed, the luff is the issue. If it's too big, any sail shop can shorten it in a jiffy. If it's too small, what the heck. A comparable spin with sleeve could run you $2,500. Cosmetically, you might ask what it looks like, that is the color scheme and whether it has some goofy drawing of Saddam or such. Otherwise, steal that spin!
Thanx. I guess....
I should have lowered my jib furling and tried the sail's luff. I need to setup a new halyard next season. I have a cleat and winch as well as additional blocks. Regarding the cosmetics; it's red, orange and yellow. Not my first choice but for $500.00.....
I should have lowered my jib furling and tried the sail's luff. I need to setup a new halyard next season. I have a cleat and winch as well as additional blocks. Regarding the cosmetics; it's red, orange and yellow. Not my first choice but for $500.00.....
what the hay
the catalina's are mast head rigs and your hunter is a frac. more than likely the luff is way too long. but put a mast head sheave on the hunter and have a ball. if you don't want it let me know and i'll fly it on my ODay 30. Capn jim of Que Pasa?
the catalina's are mast head rigs and your hunter is a frac. more than likely the luff is way too long. but put a mast head sheave on the hunter and have a ball. if you don't want it let me know and i'll fly it on my ODay 30. Capn jim of Que Pasa?
Luff dimensions
Alan, Go to the sailrite website. They have the dimensions for most production boats available in their database. Go to where you get quotes on sail prices and find the tab that looks for the dimensions. Get the info for the catalina and then for your Hunter and see what the difference. It sounds like you already sprung for the sail. This material is very light and can easily be sewn with a home machine except the corner reinforcements may need a heavy duty. Cutting a little off the foot should be very easy. Good luck with your new sail. I love mine!! Sailed it from Noank to Block island last year in 8 knots of wind building to 13 knots. Flew it from mid fishers island sound all the way to the salt pond channel. Nothing better in light air. In 8 knots of wind it kept us moving at about 4 to 4.5 knots. Dave
Alan, Go to the sailrite website. They have the dimensions for most production boats available in their database. Go to where you get quotes on sail prices and find the tab that looks for the dimensions. Get the info for the catalina and then for your Hunter and see what the difference. It sounds like you already sprung for the sail. This material is very light and can easily be sewn with a home machine except the corner reinforcements may need a heavy duty. Cutting a little off the foot should be very easy. Good luck with your new sail. I love mine!! Sailed it from Noank to Block island last year in 8 knots of wind building to 13 knots. Flew it from mid fishers island sound all the way to the salt pond channel. Nothing better in light air. In 8 knots of wind it kept us moving at about 4 to 4.5 knots. Dave
H31 not fractional
Most Hunters are fractional rigged, but I don't think the H31 is (see line drawing photo). The rig specs for the H31 and C30 should be close enough (see spec below). You don't need much other than the halyard (and you don't need an additional halyard winch since the sock is pretty easy to hoist). Get us a photo flying your new kite! Trevor Hunter 31: I 42' J 12' P 37' 5 in E 11' Catalina 30 (don't know if this is tall rig or standard): I 43' J 11' 6 in P 37' 6 in E 12'
Most Hunters are fractional rigged, but I don't think the H31 is (see line drawing photo). The rig specs for the H31 and C30 should be close enough (see spec below). You don't need much other than the halyard (and you don't need an additional halyard winch since the sock is pretty easy to hoist). Get us a photo flying your new kite! Trevor Hunter 31: I 42' J 12' P 37' 5 in E 11' Catalina 30 (don't know if this is tall rig or standard): I 43' J 11' 6 in P 37' 6 in E 12'
Attachments
The "I" is the most important consideration
If the luff of your asym is shorter than the "I" you'll be okay. The "I" is the measurement from the top of the mast to the deck. Especially with a dousing sock, you want to be able to hoist the sail fully off the deck when deploying or retrieving. Regarding rigging. You can fly it from the jib halyard until you get a spinnaker crane and swivel block set up. Instead of jibing it around the outside of the forestay, you can tack the sail by simply dousing it and moving it and the sheet to the other side, then raising the sock again. It is way more simpler than David Foster's system. I don't get that at all. I highly suggest you run a tackline through a block at the stemhead then back to the cockpit. My asym came with a small sleeve that wraps around the furled headsail and attaches to the asym' tack to keep the sail from falling off. For hanked-on sails a simple clip to the forestay will work.
If the luff of your asym is shorter than the "I" you'll be okay. The "I" is the measurement from the top of the mast to the deck. Especially with a dousing sock, you want to be able to hoist the sail fully off the deck when deploying or retrieving. Regarding rigging. You can fly it from the jib halyard until you get a spinnaker crane and swivel block set up. Instead of jibing it around the outside of the forestay, you can tack the sail by simply dousing it and moving it and the sheet to the other side, then raising the sock again. It is way more simpler than David Foster's system. I don't get that at all. I highly suggest you run a tackline through a block at the stemhead then back to the cockpit. My asym came with a small sleeve that wraps around the furled headsail and attaches to the asym' tack to keep the sail from falling off. For hanked-on sails a simple clip to the forestay will work.
Luff is Close
According to www.pyacht.net rig dimmensions charts, your hunter has a hoist of43.67' catalina 30's have 5 diff hoist dim depending on rig setup rangeing from 41 to 43' no matter what it could be used without problem. foot length and leach could also be a consideration.
According to www.pyacht.net rig dimmensions charts, your hunter has a hoist of43.67' catalina 30's have 5 diff hoist dim depending on rig setup rangeing from 41 to 43' no matter what it could be used without problem. foot length and leach could also be a consideration.
Rechecked rig dimensions
your hunter31 has a J of 12' the cats range from 11.5 to 13.16 I'd say thats close enough I would definately do it. Have lots of fun. I wish I had one. I have 2 sysmetricals and they can get to be a bit of a chore with just the two of us to handle. fun but a bit of a chore. you know an Oday30, masthead rig with 13.5 J
your hunter31 has a J of 12' the cats range from 11.5 to 13.16 I'd say thats close enough I would definately do it. Have lots of fun. I wish I had one. I have 2 sysmetricals and they can get to be a bit of a chore with just the two of us to handle. fun but a bit of a chore. you know an Oday30, masthead rig with 13.5 J
I like to use a cruising spinnaker for light air conditions and for beam reaching to going down wind. They are typically easy to fly (I fly it by myself on my 24 ft S2) and do improve performance. I believe the mast dimensions are similar for a Hunter and a Catalina 30, hence I suspect it should work fine. Take it for a trial fit and sail on your boat before you pay for it. The price for used sails in general is always much less that for new ones and this could be an excellent deal. If the sail was done by a good sailmaker and looks to be in good shape, I would do it.
- Status