Question maybe some one can help......I have never flown my cruising spinnaker but am ready to this sping...I have worked out all the details except one... the sheets.....can someone help with the running of the sheets?. Do most use 1 sheet or 2?
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I use 2 sheets....
On my previous boat, (Catalina 27), and on my current boat, (Seafarer 30), the set-up is the same. I run two sheets, just like a jib or genoa. The sheets run outside the standing rigging and lifelines. They terminate at turning blocks mounted on the cockpit rail about 2 to 3 feet in front of the transom. I sometimes use a reaching pole to help hold sail shape downwind, but for the most part fly it free. Check with the sail manufacturer that made your sail. I'm sure they will be happy to provide some free guidance on the best way to rig and fly it. Fair Winds, Julio
On my previous boat, (Catalina 27), and on my current boat, (Seafarer 30), the set-up is the same. I run two sheets, just like a jib or genoa. The sheets run outside the standing rigging and lifelines. They terminate at turning blocks mounted on the cockpit rail about 2 to 3 feet in front of the transom. I sometimes use a reaching pole to help hold sail shape downwind, but for the most part fly it free. Check with the sail manufacturer that made your sail. I'm sure they will be happy to provide some free guidance on the best way to rig and fly it. Fair Winds, Julio
Thanks
I have heard of people unclipping and using only one sheet... thats why I asked....but I thought that would have been a mess.. thanks for your help.
I have heard of people unclipping and using only one sheet... thats why I asked....but I thought that would have been a mess.. thanks for your help.
Don't see how
you could control the sail when gybeing with only one sheet. On our 37, we use two sheets, each routed outside all rigging and lifelines to turning blocks at the extreme transom. These are snatch blocks on permanent padeyes with heavy backing plates. The tack of the sail is attached to a free-moving bead parrel fastened around the furled jib. A downhaul atached to the tack is led through another snatch block back to the cockpit. We have thought of using the whisker pole but it is very heavy and with the spinnaker halyard in use on the sail there is no topping lift to take the weight of the pole. As you can see from the photo, we launch the spinnaker from a sock. Snowing like mad here today. I am really getting cabin fever.
you could control the sail when gybeing with only one sheet. On our 37, we use two sheets, each routed outside all rigging and lifelines to turning blocks at the extreme transom. These are snatch blocks on permanent padeyes with heavy backing plates. The tack of the sail is attached to a free-moving bead parrel fastened around the furled jib. A downhaul atached to the tack is led through another snatch block back to the cockpit. We have thought of using the whisker pole but it is very heavy and with the spinnaker halyard in use on the sail there is no topping lift to take the weight of the pole. As you can see from the photo, we launch the spinnaker from a sock. Snowing like mad here today. I am really getting cabin fever.
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To jibe with one you bring the sox down
To jibe with one sheet you bring the sox down, move the sheet and the spinnaker around the fore stay to the opposite side and you pull the sox up again . This was suggested to me by Steve Cruse from North when I bought mine. It is not the fastest way but it is the easiest and safest one. I have tried jibing with two sheets with various degrees of success. In one occasion, just when I was entering Boston harbor with traffic, the spinnaker formed the famous bra on the forestay as I attempted the maneuver. It was not fun. In another occasion, the lazy sheet went under the bow. I think jibing with two sheets can be done, but it is not something you can do without lots of practice in open waters. I guess I learned the hard way.
To jibe with one sheet you bring the sox down, move the sheet and the spinnaker around the fore stay to the opposite side and you pull the sox up again . This was suggested to me by Steve Cruse from North when I bought mine. It is not the fastest way but it is the easiest and safest one. I have tried jibing with two sheets with various degrees of success. In one occasion, just when I was entering Boston harbor with traffic, the spinnaker formed the famous bra on the forestay as I attempted the maneuver. It was not fun. In another occasion, the lazy sheet went under the bow. I think jibing with two sheets can be done, but it is not something you can do without lots of practice in open waters. I guess I learned the hard way.
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I'm with Brennan
Two sheets, one on each side, can remain in place all season long. That way you minimize the risk of deploying the sheet only to find it inside a lifeline or shroud. You can also permanently deploy the tack line by running it through the existing blocks for the roller furler. Then relegate the roller furler to Clear Step circular sheeves mounted on the lifelines. If you're interested in a clever, inexpensive, sturdy bowsprit to throw the spin out another 4-5 feet, email me for pix and directions at bodonovan@vagazette.com
Two sheets, one on each side, can remain in place all season long. That way you minimize the risk of deploying the sheet only to find it inside a lifeline or shroud. You can also permanently deploy the tack line by running it through the existing blocks for the roller furler. Then relegate the roller furler to Clear Step circular sheeves mounted on the lifelines. If you're interested in a clever, inexpensive, sturdy bowsprit to throw the spin out another 4-5 feet, email me for pix and directions at bodonovan@vagazette.com
UK Spinnaker DVD
UK Sails has a CD devoted to A-symetrical spinnakers, the whole show, from setting up to launching, trimming,jybing, and retrieval. Its around $35.00 but may be well worth it.
UK Sails has a CD devoted to A-symetrical spinnakers, the whole show, from setting up to launching, trimming,jybing, and retrieval. Its around $35.00 but may be well worth it.
I only use one Spinakker Sheet, It works fine
But if I was racing a would use two. So I agree with Jose All you have to do is you've gotta snuff the spinakker with a spinakker sock and then set it on the other side (and yes bring the sheet around to the other side). Actually this way is very easy to gybe, and one of the safest, because it practically eliminates a "spinakker wrap" (When you'd had one you'll know what I mean -- its a mess) But it is by no means the fastest and you typically do have to go forward, but I usually only fly it when the winds are not strong anyway -- so its no big deal. The other easy part of a single sheet spinakker set, is that you do not require twice as long spinakker sheets as you would if you had a 2 sheet set up. The reason being is that on a 2 sheet set up the "lazy sheet" (the one on the side not being used) has to be long enough to go all the way from the clew of the spinakker on one side all the way forward of the forestay and then all the way back on the other side. AND you need that for both sheets.......its makes for quite a bit of line and a bit of a mess, if not handled properly. So if you are a beginner, do not be afraid of a single line with a "snuffer" to gybe. Its the simplest. As you get better and more confident you can always add the 2 sheet system. Here is a link below with pics of my last 2 boats spinakkers. Neither had the second sheet.
But if I was racing a would use two. So I agree with Jose All you have to do is you've gotta snuff the spinakker with a spinakker sock and then set it on the other side (and yes bring the sheet around to the other side). Actually this way is very easy to gybe, and one of the safest, because it practically eliminates a "spinakker wrap" (When you'd had one you'll know what I mean -- its a mess) But it is by no means the fastest and you typically do have to go forward, but I usually only fly it when the winds are not strong anyway -- so its no big deal. The other easy part of a single sheet spinakker set, is that you do not require twice as long spinakker sheets as you would if you had a 2 sheet set up. The reason being is that on a 2 sheet set up the "lazy sheet" (the one on the side not being used) has to be long enough to go all the way from the clew of the spinakker on one side all the way forward of the forestay and then all the way back on the other side. AND you need that for both sheets.......its makes for quite a bit of line and a bit of a mess, if not handled properly. So if you are a beginner, do not be afraid of a single line with a "snuffer" to gybe. Its the simplest. As you get better and more confident you can always add the 2 sheet system. Here is a link below with pics of my last 2 boats spinakkers. Neither had the second sheet.
3d Cruising Spinnaker, Two Sheets
Hi, I've had 3 A-Spinnakers now and have made about all the mistakes possible...learning a bit along the way. I currently have a Hunter 380 which I typically singlehand; I use my C&D Cruising spinnaker w/chute scoop alot..it's the only additional sail I'll ever need. I've tried using one sheet on many different occassions and sometimes it works fine but overall I prefer two sheets to make the gybe/tack much easier. When I initally host the sail I run both sheets on the same side since I have no intention on tacking anytime soon..when convienent and all other matters are in hand, I 'may' run the relaxed sheet forward of the forestay and complete its rig. Often I never make a tack/gybe so it all comes down and in the bag with only one setting. The most important thing to remember is the combined sheets are very very very long. Don't even think of starting the engine until all sheets are safely and surely on deck and secured . Check again and be sure otherwise the prop will find the sheet and your new problem(s)is/are just beginning. I sail out of the Bush River and would be glad to pass on all that I've learned about my Hunters and cruising spinnakers..lancecatlin@cs.com 410-272-5858 Good Luck, Lance
Hi, I've had 3 A-Spinnakers now and have made about all the mistakes possible...learning a bit along the way. I currently have a Hunter 380 which I typically singlehand; I use my C&D Cruising spinnaker w/chute scoop alot..it's the only additional sail I'll ever need. I've tried using one sheet on many different occassions and sometimes it works fine but overall I prefer two sheets to make the gybe/tack much easier. When I initally host the sail I run both sheets on the same side since I have no intention on tacking anytime soon..when convienent and all other matters are in hand, I 'may' run the relaxed sheet forward of the forestay and complete its rig. Often I never make a tack/gybe so it all comes down and in the bag with only one setting. The most important thing to remember is the combined sheets are very very very long. Don't even think of starting the engine until all sheets are safely and surely on deck and secured . Check again and be sure otherwise the prop will find the sheet and your new problem(s)is/are just beginning. I sail out of the Bush River and would be glad to pass on all that I've learned about my Hunters and cruising spinnakers..lancecatlin@cs.com 410-272-5858 Good Luck, Lance
Tom, the link
does not seem to work. Says I am not the owner of the album. Oh well, Life is a spinnaker wrap!
does not seem to work. Says I am not the owner of the album. Oh well, Life is a spinnaker wrap!
Two sheets always on a short handed boat
Wife and I always use two on the 340. Jibing works great. Wouldn't do it any other way.
Wife and I always use two on the 340. Jibing works great. Wouldn't do it any other way.
one/two/continuous?
We've never used a single sheet that has to be passed around the forestay. With a symmetrical, we've always used a continuous sheet attached to a clew on each end, and that worked well. In the case of an assymetrical, of course, the sheet(s) would need to be longer by about the length of the foot. In any case, you DO have to control the sheet(s) (keep 'em in the boat), or they'll tangle someplace where you don't want them.
We've never used a single sheet that has to be passed around the forestay. With a symmetrical, we've always used a continuous sheet attached to a clew on each end, and that worked well. In the case of an assymetrical, of course, the sheet(s) would need to be longer by about the length of the foot. In any case, you DO have to control the sheet(s) (keep 'em in the boat), or they'll tangle someplace where you don't want them.
1 works fine for cruising
We use the simple technique already described: Drop the sock; Walk the sock and sheet around the front of the boat to the other side, and raise the sock. Two snatch blocks at the stern end of the to rail ease freeing and restringing the sheet. David Lady Lillie
We use the simple technique already described: Drop the sock; Walk the sock and sheet around the front of the boat to the other side, and raise the sock. Two snatch blocks at the stern end of the to rail ease freeing and restringing the sheet. David Lady Lillie
Sheets
I use two sheets (attached to the same clew), one on the port side and the other on the starboard side, so that when I tack, I can pull the sail around with the other sheet.
I use two sheets (attached to the same clew), one on the port side and the other on the starboard side, so that when I tack, I can pull the sail around with the other sheet.
Continuous sheet?
Am I understanding your single sheet method as described in the following example? The sheet is made fast to the clew. The sheet is led aft to the port turning block. The sheet is led to the port spinnaker winch. The sheet is led to the starboard turning block. The sheet is led to the starboard spinnaker winch. The line is led to and made fast to the clew. To provide for sufficient slack when jibing, the sheet should be about three boat lengths long. Do you snuff the spinnaker during the maneuver?
Am I understanding your single sheet method as described in the following example? The sheet is made fast to the clew. The sheet is led aft to the port turning block. The sheet is led to the port spinnaker winch. The sheet is led to the starboard turning block. The sheet is led to the starboard spinnaker winch. The line is led to and made fast to the clew. To provide for sufficient slack when jibing, the sheet should be about three boat lengths long. Do you snuff the spinnaker during the maneuver?
Dee, That came with my '99 Cat36MKII
I think Catalina outsources the making of the spinnakers. Catalina factory is right there in So.Cal and I believe the Loft that makes the spinakkers are somewhere close also. Call Catalina @ 818-884-7700....you could ask for David Graas and he could probably tell you. This spinakker is cut a little more flat than my previous one and at first I liked my old one, but now I realize I like the flatter a bit better as cut since I can sail a bit higher now.
I think Catalina outsources the making of the spinnakers. Catalina factory is right there in So.Cal and I believe the Loft that makes the spinakkers are somewhere close also. Call Catalina @ 818-884-7700....you could ask for David Graas and he could probably tell you. This spinakker is cut a little more flat than my previous one and at first I liked my old one, but now I realize I like the flatter a bit better as cut since I can sail a bit higher now.
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