Cruising guide for Southern BC

Jun 11, 2004
1,640
Oday 31 Redondo Beach
Hi,
We're chartering for two weeks out of Nanaimo this summer. First time sailing around that area. What cruising guides or other reading does anyone recommend for the area, particularly Gulf Islands to Princess Louisa Inlet?
Any other tips?
Thanks!
 
Jul 27, 2011
5,009
Bavaria 38E Alamitos Bay
I've used an edition (not sure which edition, and I can't look right now) of this one which can be gotten from WM, so it appears. I'd rank my edition as "adequate."

Exploring the South Coast of British Columbia
By Don & Reanne Douglass ISBN: 978-1-932310-23-8
 
Nov 18, 2013
171
Catalina 310 Campbell River
You may want to look at the Dream Speaker Guides for the area they are well done and we used them. They have a web site if you want to check out their books. Great sailing from Nanamio. to Texada if the winds are right.
 
Jul 27, 2011
5,009
Bavaria 38E Alamitos Bay
IMHO, from a pragmatic point of view, the question is which way first?--Up the BC mainland coast or down the coast of Vancouver Island and explore the Gulf Islands? Having done one and two-week charters there, UP the coast round trip is closer to a two-week charter. DOWN the coast from Nanaimo round trip to the Gulf Islands is more of a one-week charter. Hard to do both in one, two-week charter unless you wish to be on the move a lot; probably motoring much of the time. But if so then go UP first. If you use all or nearly all of your time lounging there, it's usually a down-wind trip back to Nanaimo and you might be able over shoot, swing in half-way down the Gulf Islands (at Porlier Pass), and then go back up to N in the protected waters of the islands. By the way-- a great cruising venue!
 
Dec 25, 2000
5,748
Hunter Passage 42 Shelter Bay, WA
Hi Richard, my vote is for Waggoners Cruising Guide. Very popular and widely used in PNW waters. You can obtain a free copy PDF file through their website. I have one on our laptop that I keep on the boat. My preference though is for the paper copy.

Two weeks is pretty short, so given the time I recommend that you stay on the east side of Vancouver Island and head south from Nanaimo towards the Gulf Islands. My top list:

1. Wednesday is Dinghy Dock Pub race day in Nanaimo, so anchor in Mark Bay and head over to the Pub for dinner and a brew. Start and finish line is right at the Pub.

2. Head south through Dodd Narrows and if you can pass through on a flood slack. If you want some solitude Clam Bay or Pirates Cove are good anchorages.

3. Montague Harbor a must. Good anchorage, but arrive early. Take the school bus ride to Hummingbird Pub.

4. Ganges Harbor another good anchorage. Saturday is farmer's market with lots of good food and artisan items to browse.

Please give us follow-up cruise report.
 
Jun 11, 2004
1,640
Oday 31 Redondo Beach
Thanks all. I downloaded the Waggoners guide and have had a chance to give it only a brief look but it does look like one I'll want to buy as a hard copy. Exploring the South Coast of British Columbia looks like a good companion guide.

Kings Gambit's question about up or down has been one that has been perplexing me. Two weeks is short. Of course I want to see as much as I can but at the same time don't want to feel under the gun to be moving all of the time. Generally thinking that we will start going up to Princess Louisa inlet and then see what time we have left. My friend's grandfather was the founder of the camp at Malibu so I want to see that.

Our charter starts July 21 so if anyone has any other suggestions or must see places please let me know.

Terry, thanks for the specifics. I'll check them out.

I look forward to reporting back about a wonderful cruise.

Thanks again.
 
Jul 27, 2011
5,009
Bavaria 38E Alamitos Bay
Our charter starts July 21 so if anyone has any other suggestions or must see places please let me know.
Thanks again.
Since you asked... I don't have my charts or guides with me right now, so much of this is from memory; thus, you might wish to confirm details. Princess Louisa is beautiful and a worthy destination; we went there and I'd LOVE to go back. However, it's a long way "up-wind" (typically) from Nanaimo, probably at near or at 100 n.mi. It's 30+ n.mi. across the Strait of Georgia, and 40 n.mi. up Jervis Inlet to PL. I don't remember the distance from the closest point on the mainland side crossing from Nanaimo up to Jervis Inlet, but I would guess at least 20 n.mi. So, anyway--minimally two days up there at least and the same coming back; and you cannot travel at night by charter regulations. Say you spend only two nights in PL (after arrival night); there's a week's worth of charter time pushing pretty hard just to do that. The camp is not much to see from the water; I don't know how to get there from where your boat will be anchored. The anchoring area up near the falls is, I think, at least two miles from the camp at the entrance to Malibu Rapids. However, there may be docks at the camp you can use; I don't recall. That would leave you a week to do the Gulf Islands if you go to PL and come "straight back." If lucky, you'll have a fair wind coming back so that will make up some time. It did for us. There are several pretty spots along the way so you might not want to shoot back right away. Also, entering and departing Malibu Rapids needs to be done on slack tide. So that's potentially a 3-hr "lay-over" waiting on ebb or flood to go slack.

Since my first charter to BC I've asked the company to put a least 200 ft of 3-strand nylon aboard for tying off the stern to rings or "other" items ashore when anchoring; 300 ft would be better. If they won't do it, then bring your own. Can use crappy old line and leave it behind if you wish. Anchoring in some of the pretty spots is bow out-stern close to the shore, tied off to shore. You're on a "slope." It could be 70 to 90 feet where the anchor goes down and then two or three boat lengths toward shore you're in 20 ft, etc. "Short scope" and it always bothered me; but it also worked b/c the "up-pull" on the anchor stays more or less parallel to bottom when backing off toward shore. Of course, you have to be very mindful of the changes in tidal heights that close to shore. Looks like you'll be having spring tides near a full moon. o_O Your choices for anchoring will be limited if you do not have the stern line or a second set of anchor tackle that you can use. You have to do it that way b/c if you swung around on a single hook w/ less than 2:1 scope you're going to pull out from the deep side and go adrift.
 
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druid

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Apr 22, 2009
837
Ontario 32 Pender Harbour
That's my Home Cruising Ground. I'll second the vote for Waggoners - excellent book! Be sure to pay for it - the author's a great guy and put a lot of sweat into the book. Also: make SURE you have charts on board: charter companies typically don't supply them.
As for destinations: the Gulf Islands are a great 2-week trip, very protected and lots of good anchorages. They can get VERY crowded in the summer, though! I prefer to go North: Lasquitti/ Jedediah is nice but often hard to find good anchorage. The crossing of the Strait is a pretty good shot from Nanaimo - usually a close-reach, with the wind strongest on the Eastern side. Princess Louisa is beautiful and worth the motor up Jervis Inlet, but you HAVE to go through Malibu Rapids at slack. Pender Harbour is worth spending a day or two at, especially if there's the Blues or Jazz Festivals happening. Then it's up to Desolation Sound, which in the summer is ANYTHING but desolate. Still, lots of places to see - Waggonner's has lots of stuff on it, but there's a book called "Cruising Desolation Sound" or something that includes lots of the history of the area, including excerpts from Capn Vancouver's logbook.

And King's advice about a stern line is Right-on: You NEED it for anchoring in most of Lasquitti and Desolation (and many anchorages in the Gulf Islands). I'll also throw in that with some of the deeper bays, you're anchored in 50-80 ft of water and if you put out even 5:1 scope, you'll hit every boat in the bay. 3:1 is more common.

druid
 
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Jul 27, 2011
5,009
Bavaria 38E Alamitos Bay
That's my Home Cruising Ground. I'll second the vote for Waggoners - excellent book! Be sure to pay for it - the author's a great guy and put a lot of sweat into the book. Also: make SURE you have charts on board: charter companies typically don't supply them.
My last charter in 2013 w/ Cooper-- the charts I needed were aboard. You can ask for those as well. I did, however, bring a couple of my own Canadian charts that I bought in Long Beach at Safe Navigation. Those are less expensive than the British Admiralty charts also available.
 
Dec 25, 2000
5,748
Hunter Passage 42 Shelter Bay, WA
Hi Druid, saddened to learn last year that Lasqueti no longer has the marching band as part of their Canada Day Art Festival. Still had a good time inspecting art works, mingling with the locals and sampling food and drink. Maybe again this year, if things work out.

I need to visit a friend in Secret Cove on the way. Maybe even a day or two at Boho Bay to sample some oysters. Tucker Bay another good source for oysters.
 
Jan 30, 2012
1,123
Nor'Sea 27 "Kiwanda" Portland/ Anacortes
Stern tie.

500 foot reel of 3/8" yellow poly hollow braid with a reel from U Line (ships from the Seattle suburbs) - about $50. Delivery was very pronto

Charles
 
Dec 25, 2000
5,748
Hunter Passage 42 Shelter Bay, WA
Stern tie.

500 foot reel of 3/8" yellow poly hollow braid with a reel from U Line (ships from the Seattle suburbs) - about $50. Delivery was very pronto

Charles
Our boat has 350 feet of 3/8" poly, which has been adequate over the years. What you have is better.
 
Jun 5, 2012
144
Catalina 30 mkI Victoria, British Columbia
I think people have you on the right path Richard...
It's my home stomp as well, so I'll throw out my own perspective -
As some have inferred, where to go and what to do totally depends on what you're looking for...but no matter what - it'll be busy. The 2 week charter doesn't give you quite enough time to hit that real 'solitude' which you can find a little further north. If you want to be the only boat in the bay...it probably won't happen.
BUT - it's good you're chartering out of Nanaimo. It puts you smack in the middle of really great options.
North:
As some have said - Princess Louisa is a looong way in. There's no doubt it's spectacular, but since you're paying top dollar to be out there, you want good bang for your buck. It's your call - and it sounds like you have other good reasons to go up there, so it might be a great choice for you.
Lasqueti/Jedediah have been mentioned. I always stop there on my way north to see the wild goats, sheep and hike the trails. Boho Bay is easiest to anchor at, and then just dinghy across to Jedediah. From there you spend a day heading up to Lund, and then by lunchtime the following day you can be in Desolation Sound. In my mind this is equally beautiful to the head of Princess Louisa. As was mentioned you stern tie most of the time in Desolation. Deep anchorages, and lots of people. But the wildlife is cool, the water is warm and the forests are spectacular. After you get your fill in Desolation, you could hop across to the Vancouver Island side again and work your way south - Comox Harbour, Hornby Island, and then finally back to Nanaimo.
If you did hit Princess Louisa, something you might find interesting to try would be to turn south after exiting and stop in Secret Cove or (if you've got the stern-tying nailed - Smugglers Cove) and then the following day blitz it to Vancouver (or go to Gambier Island first). False Creek is where I'd go, and you need a permit to anchor but it's easy to get online. Anchoring off Yaletown and taking the dinghy over to Granville Island to explore the markets and shops is super fun!! Then you are just a 1 day shot back across the Strait of Georgia to Nanaimo.
South:
The Gulf Islands. Again - SOOO many options. The climate is significantly different here than any of the other areas. It's quite dry, and most of the islands are populated, so the shoreline vista is totally different (plus there are far more PUBS!)
To access them from Nanaimo you can either do Dodd Narrows or one of the other passes - Gabriola, Porlier and Active. The ferries all take Active, so it is challenging, and Dodd Narrows is always suuuper busy. Of all the places in the Gulf Islands - that one pisses me off the most. Everyone (including tugs with log booms) waits until slack water and it's just an absolute gong show! Most people will call their entry over the radio, which is great, but many will then pay absolutely no heed to the commercial traffic, to their vessel's wake, or to other vessels already in the narrowest part of the pass. ...but I digress....
Some great spots to see once you get through - Thetis Island (with a lovely honour-system fresh/frozen produce shop and also a pub), Pirates Cove, Montague Harbour, Ganges (holding is not great), Portland Island, Sidney Spit, Bedwell Harbour, Cabbage Island, Winter Cove, the list goes on....and it's hard to go wrong. You would also likely run into the Southern Resident Orca pod at some point.
It was said to watch your anchoring scope. This is absolutely true. Especially in Bedwell. 3:1 is the norm. I mentioned the ferries, and this is something to be aware of no matter where you sail in the southern islands. There are lots of them and they come up fast! Always stay diligent on the helm.
Other than that - try to plan your days using the currents to your advantage (grab a Ports and Passes book) have an AWESOME trip!!!
 
Dec 25, 2000
5,748
Hunter Passage 42 Shelter Bay, WA
Just a scheduling note, Pender Harbor Days July 8-10, 2016.
 
Jul 27, 2011
5,009
Bavaria 38E Alamitos Bay
I've used an edition (not sure which edition, and I can't look right now) of this one which can be gotten from WM, so it appears. I'd rank my edition as "adequate."

Exploring the South Coast of British Columbia
By Don & Reanne Douglass ISBN: 978-1-932310-23-8
My edition is the First Edition, published 1996. So, there no doubt have been improvements to make it to a Third Edition. Looks like 80 n.mi. by the most direct route from Naniamo to Chatterbox Falls at Princess Louisa Park. Might make that in one long day at 7 kt SOG if slack water occurs near the time you arrive at Malibu Rapids.:pray:
 
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Feb 26, 2004
22,782
Catalina 34 224 Maple Bay, BC, Canada
For you folks who have to dock at docks without cleats and just those raised 2x2s, how do you do it singlehanded? Do you use grappling hooks?!? :)
 
Dec 25, 2000
5,748
Hunter Passage 42 Shelter Bay, WA
For you folks who have to dock at docks without cleats and just those raised 2x2s, how do you do it singlehanded? Do you use grappling hooks?!? :)
I do it the same way whether cleats or horizontal bollards (usually 4" X 6" timbers). Once the boat touches the wharf, I step off and secure the midship line first, followed by the bow line then stern. Usually this works every time that is unless wind and/or current require different tactics.
 
Jul 27, 2011
5,009
Bavaria 38E Alamitos Bay
Those bollards are not as quick to use as cleats; so, their use does require a different strategy and tactic, IMHO. The wind can be pretty strong in summer afternoons in the PNW. Wind strength, and direction relative to the dock and your approach, as always, has to be taken into account. If I get off of the boat to secure from the mid-ship cleat, especially if I'm alone, I take the boat hook with me. With the bollard, loop under from the dock inboard side so you have nearly a full turn right away when you pull back on it. Another loop with a hitch should hold long enough to get to the bow or stern lines. I usually choose the up-wind end of the boat to secure first in the samc way, then the other, etc. I use the boat hook if one end or the other starts to get away from the dock. Obviously, if the wind is strong off the dock you really have to work fast on that first tie from the mid-ship cleat.
 
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Dec 25, 2000
5,748
Hunter Passage 42 Shelter Bay, WA
Those conditions were the gist of my question, not the easy ones. :) Any pointers?
Since I solo most all the time, a couple of maneuvering tips that I use, whether dock cleats or bollards:

1. Docking with the current as opposed to against the current, which is against conventional wisdom. Pick a docking spot. Bring boat parallel to that spot and use engine to slow boat to a stop. Increase engine reverse speed to offset current drift, then slightly turn the helm towards the dock. Patience is important here. Drift pressure on the rudder will begin to slowly move the stern towards the dock, while at the same time keep the bow inline. When the boat touches the dock step off and secure the stern line first. At the point you can shut everything down.

2. Departing the dock when the wind is pushing you into the dock. Untie all dock lines except the bow. Place a fender at the bow to protect the boat from the dock. Have a dock hand or deck hand hold the bow line with one wrap around the cleat/bollard. Turn the helm hard over to the dock, then increase engine forward speed, which will thrust water pressure against the rudder and push the stern away from the dock. When the stern is far enough away from the dock, the deck/dock hand can release the bow line, the helmsman can quickly turn the helm hard over away from the dock and do a hard reverse thrust to back away from the dock. It is important to let the deck/dock hand know that it will be difficult to hold the bow line during this maneuver, but it does work. I've done this solo and requires a long bow line wrap around the dock cleat/bollard and extend back to the helm.