Hi, Problem.....Cannot get my Cat. 22 keel bolt to engage the threads when attempting to replace it. Any suggestions ? Thanks, in advance......Dj
cross threaded keel bolt?
- Thread starter dembo
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Did it come out hard? Are you using a new bolt or are you putting the old bolt back in? If you are using a new one, which you should do, and the old bolt did not come out hard, there could be some "crud" on the threads. You can take a Q-tip and rub it around in the hole to help clean it out. This has happend to me before. You can also run a tap through it , but I would do this last.
Dale
Dale
Another thing. Loosen the other three, WITH a jack under it, then you may be able to jiggle it around a tad to get it started. Go buy a new bolt. Maybe.....grind just a SMALL taper on the end to start it. That is, after you try the tap. Don't screw this up.
I actually had to ream out one of the hanger holes on one side a little to start a bolt.
And it didn't hurt to ream out the hole where the bolt head resides as well, just so I could get a regular socket in there. I don't use cheap tools, so grinding the socket down was OUT!
Stupid hangers.....
I actually had to ream out one of the hanger holes on one side a little to start a bolt.
And it didn't hurt to ream out the hole where the bolt head resides as well, just so I could get a regular socket in there. I don't use cheap tools, so grinding the socket down was OUT!
Stupid hangers.....
There's always Heli-Coil type thread repair inserts:
"HeliCoil Inserts or Wire Thread Inserts are made of cold rolled 18-8 grade Stainless Steel to AS7245..."
http://www.helicoil.in/helicoil.htm
"HeliCoil Inserts or Wire Thread Inserts are made of cold rolled 18-8 grade Stainless Steel to AS7245..."
http://www.helicoil.in/helicoil.htm
While I would normally agree on the use of HeliCoils, I would discourage the use of one on the inserts. There just isn't enough of a wall to safely use them on the C22 keel inserts....
I know of at least two people who have tried them and both had them fail, not a area I personally want to take any chance of failure. Go to CD's site and take a look at the picture of the insert to see just how thin the wall is.
I know of at least two people who have tried them and both had them fail, not a area I personally want to take any chance of failure. Go to CD's site and take a look at the picture of the insert to see just how thin the wall is.
Heli-coils are great devices. But there is no way you could drill out the weldement to 3/8" or better to install it. Even drilling out a 5/16" bolt, and re-threading one was intense. And drilling it out straight over your face, trying to use drilling oil.........ooh buddy. Not for the faint of heart. Or learning how to drill and tap.
'nother thing, obtain a 5/16" bottom tap, so you can chase the threads to the end. There's not that many threads to begin with.
'nother thing, obtain a 5/16" bottom tap, so you can chase the threads to the end. There's not that many threads to begin with.
This situation may not need to be re-threaded. If the bolt will go into the threads without the hanger in place then it should be fine. It may be that something has caused the hanger to be slightly out of place by a small fraction. If it's forward or back from it's exact position one could gently push or pull on the back/bottom end of the keel while trying to start the bolt.
My bad. I didn't read carefully and thought we were talking about the lift eye bolt on the keel. I agree with the others that helicoil is not a solution to the keel mounting bolts.
The weldement
Another view on this most horrible object. I'm not disputing anything, other than just posting what I hope is relevant information. I came across this weldement, (I think that's what it's referred to), because I mercifully did not have to install it. I drilled and tapped out the old one, an equally terrible job.
So, the base is 1" X 1 1/4" X 1/8". It's exactly 1" deep, with a 5/16" X 1 1/4" bolt. The outside diameter is 1/2" exactly. I used digital calipers for these measurements, but left in a vernier scale caliper just for visual reference. (I've not met anybody in 20 years that knows how to accurately read one of these things). The bolt is obviously stainless, as is the weldement. Do not use a carbon steel bolt on this, as you will insure it very early, and catastrophic demise.
As in, the keel leaving the boat straight down, and possibly taking the winch through the bottom of the boat with it. I've never heard of this happening, but there is no reason to think that it couldn't.
Another view on this most horrible object. I'm not disputing anything, other than just posting what I hope is relevant information. I came across this weldement, (I think that's what it's referred to), because I mercifully did not have to install it. I drilled and tapped out the old one, an equally terrible job.
So, the base is 1" X 1 1/4" X 1/8". It's exactly 1" deep, with a 5/16" X 1 1/4" bolt. The outside diameter is 1/2" exactly. I used digital calipers for these measurements, but left in a vernier scale caliper just for visual reference. (I've not met anybody in 20 years that knows how to accurately read one of these things). The bolt is obviously stainless, as is the weldement. Do not use a carbon steel bolt on this, as you will insure it very early, and catastrophic demise.
As in, the keel leaving the boat straight down, and possibly taking the winch through the bottom of the boat with it. I've never heard of this happening, but there is no reason to think that it couldn't.
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There have been mentions of C22s losing their keels while in the water. This doesn't mean that the boat will sink but it's possible. CD recommends replacing the keel bolts every 2 years because they are stainless and prone to flaws and/or seizing within the weldments.
I would think it would be very difficult to get safety wire through the bolt, due to it's limited access in the hanger, but it could be done. my trick is, is to enlarge the hole where the bolt head is anyway, so a proper 6 point socket will go on it, so that may help with that. A man could easily cross drill one of these bolts for that, not a bad idea.
I take a small punch, and mark the bolt, and the hanger adjacent to it, just so at a glance, you can tell if it's moved, but it does nothing to actually prevent the bolt from coming loose. Or to tell if it is structurally damaged. Loctite 'em, and replace them seems to be the operative solution, if there is a "solution" for the Rube Goldberg apparatus..
I take a small punch, and mark the bolt, and the hanger adjacent to it, just so at a glance, you can tell if it's moved, but it does nothing to actually prevent the bolt from coming loose. Or to tell if it is structurally damaged. Loctite 'em, and replace them seems to be the operative solution, if there is a "solution" for the Rube Goldberg apparatus..
With these bolts a 6 point isn't all that necessary. The recommended torque for the stainless steel is really rather light and replacing every 2 years is recommended by CD. ALso for info, these bolts have had damage when on the trailer and I think that this is because the boat can shift when trailering. This leverage of the boat on the keel.... resting on the trailer support ....can cause great force on the bolts.
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