Yep Ole Crazy has been blowin whacky mess. Just kidding. Due to personal reasons plus opening another office, I have been busy. Well I am back. I guess I will be crazy as ever and sometimes I may not agree with some answers but you know what, all I can say it is another opinion but based on experience. AS jim seamons will say, Dave is looney as a bat bird. For those of you who know me, remember that I will ask never to divulge who or where I am out of respect for the forum. Thank you. By the way, if there is a big N Scale train convention, that may be one place where you will find me.
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quest for Mr Webb
Rick I have read some of the links on the power cleat instalation.I was thinking of using a harken cam cleat the swivel type.For location I was thinking the rail seat on each side possibly using the same holes that hold the seat in place,should be a plate there. Has anyone tried that? Also if I use your meathod did you use the same horn cleat screws since you used the teak wood base.
Rick I have read some of the links on the power cleat instalation.I was thinking of using a harken cam cleat the swivel type.For location I was thinking the rail seat on each side possibly using the same holes that hold the seat in place,should be a plate there. Has anyone tried that? Also if I use your meathod did you use the same horn cleat screws since you used the teak wood base.
Yep, Same Holes Just Longer Screws
The teak is just a spacer. I can sit as far back as the stern rail seats and work the jib sheets with no trouble at all. Best improvement I've made on the boat. Others have done the same without the spacer I did not try it that way it looked like the extra room was needed to pop the cleats with the sheet.
The teak is just a spacer. I can sit as far back as the stern rail seats and work the jib sheets with no trouble at all. Best improvement I've made on the boat. Others have done the same without the spacer I did not try it that way it looked like the extra room was needed to pop the cleats with the sheet.
Glad to have you back (too). NMI didn't use spacers
I didn't need spacers on my 23.5, and I can work them from the stern rail seats too. I think the 26/260 owners needed spacers because the location is further forward IE not as close to the cockpit edge. Without spacers I needed screws 1/2" shorter.
I didn't need spacers on my 23.5, and I can work them from the stern rail seats too. I think the 26/260 owners needed spacers because the location is further forward IE not as close to the cockpit edge. Without spacers I needed screws 1/2" shorter.
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