New Jabsco head on a new boat. Manual pump. For unknown reason seems to periodically get cranky and resist moving only on the push-down stroke when the intake selection lever is on "wet" to draw in lake water. When this happens, switching the lever to "dry" allows the pump handle to fall down even of it's own weight, but putting the lever back to "wet" ( for purpose of drawing in lake water) , allows the upstroke ( to draw in water ), but again, you cannot push it down, and feel strong back pressure. Only solution at times is to put the lever back to "dry", put a cup or two of fresh water from the sink in and flush up and down only with the lever on "dry". Cause not related to heel of boat, because this also happens at times when the boat isn't underway. Could there be something we're doing to cause this, and/or a simple fix?
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Valve
There is a gasket on the top of the pump, part no.29042-0000, according to the diagram. The condition you have is common when the valve flaps do not align properly and do not seat correctly or the valve (wet/dry) actuator doesn't do its job. I have had theis happen many times, even with a new pump. That's the easy part. What you need to do is to take the top off. There are six screws. Put some towels around because there will be a bit of a mess. Also get some thick teflon grease to grease the pump cylinder before reassembly. Purchase a gasket from PAR/Jabsco (some marine stores sell the gasket alone). Take the screws out, pull the piston assembly out with the top of the pump. You will be looking at the gasket. replace the gasket after squirting some of the grease into the cylinder. Then carefully seat the new gasket, grease the ends of the screws, and tighten up the top of the pump to the pump cylinder housing. Be VERY GENTLE with the screwdriver. Do not tighten to much. It may dribble some from the gasket. If so, do not tighten more. Let it sit overnight and then tighten if it has not seated. These pumps are prone to go bad when opened and reassembled, so just take care to not tighten much at all and watch the part alignment. Good luck, Rick D.
There is a gasket on the top of the pump, part no.29042-0000, according to the diagram. The condition you have is common when the valve flaps do not align properly and do not seat correctly or the valve (wet/dry) actuator doesn't do its job. I have had theis happen many times, even with a new pump. That's the easy part. What you need to do is to take the top off. There are six screws. Put some towels around because there will be a bit of a mess. Also get some thick teflon grease to grease the pump cylinder before reassembly. Purchase a gasket from PAR/Jabsco (some marine stores sell the gasket alone). Take the screws out, pull the piston assembly out with the top of the pump. You will be looking at the gasket. replace the gasket after squirting some of the grease into the cylinder. Then carefully seat the new gasket, grease the ends of the screws, and tighten up the top of the pump to the pump cylinder housing. Be VERY GENTLE with the screwdriver. Do not tighten to much. It may dribble some from the gasket. If so, do not tighten more. Let it sit overnight and then tighten if it has not seated. These pumps are prone to go bad when opened and reassembled, so just take care to not tighten much at all and watch the part alignment. Good luck, Rick D.
Defective wet/dry valve
It's a VERY common problem in Jabsco manual toilets... and apparently Jabsco considers it more cost-effective to replace 'em than fix the design, tooling or production problem that causes it, 'cuz it's been a very common problem for several years. If you look at the drawing in the so-called "manual" that came with your toilet (you DID keep it?), you'll see that the valve is just a little plastic doodad that either blocks or unblocks the waterflow from the head intake hose. The defective ones hang, interfering with flush water flow and creating backpressure in one mode or both. The cure: a replacement wet/dry valve. Since your toilet is new, they'll send it to you for free as a warranty replacement...removing and installing it is up to you. Call Jabsco tomorrow.
It's a VERY common problem in Jabsco manual toilets... and apparently Jabsco considers it more cost-effective to replace 'em than fix the design, tooling or production problem that causes it, 'cuz it's been a very common problem for several years. If you look at the drawing in the so-called "manual" that came with your toilet (you DID keep it?), you'll see that the valve is just a little plastic doodad that either blocks or unblocks the waterflow from the head intake hose. The defective ones hang, interfering with flush water flow and creating backpressure in one mode or both. The cure: a replacement wet/dry valve. Since your toilet is new, they'll send it to you for free as a warranty replacement...removing and installing it is up to you. Call Jabsco tomorrow.
Thanks, Peggy & Rick - one more quickie
thanks. Peggy- bought your book recently, and thanks for the autograph. It is helpful, but need to finish it and reread twice. Left it on the boat, though, so can't look at it now (maybe need two of them.-) Two quick follow ups: 1. Will this be an awful mess to change if we shut off intake valve at the hull etc. (ie, is it likely a smelly mess already after only a month or so?) and 2. If we have lots of trouble with this head on new Hunter 410, would it be easier to just get a better brand of toilet? and if so, are the footprints on any others interchangeable? On our old Pearson, there was a box the head sat on, but on the new Hunter, it is screwed into the fiberglass floor directly and would look ugly if you changed to a brand that had different screw settings. Suggestions? thanks for all you do, and you too, Rick for the advice....
thanks. Peggy- bought your book recently, and thanks for the autograph. It is helpful, but need to finish it and reread twice. Left it on the boat, though, so can't look at it now (maybe need two of them.-) Two quick follow ups: 1. Will this be an awful mess to change if we shut off intake valve at the hull etc. (ie, is it likely a smelly mess already after only a month or so?) and 2. If we have lots of trouble with this head on new Hunter 410, would it be easier to just get a better brand of toilet? and if so, are the footprints on any others interchangeable? On our old Pearson, there was a box the head sat on, but on the new Hunter, it is screwed into the fiberglass floor directly and would look ugly if you changed to a brand that had different screw settings. Suggestions? thanks for all you do, and you too, Rick for the advice....
That's The Right Question
If you don't want to wind up like me with a boat full of spare Jabsco parts and a $600 head, you might consider changing out to a PHII sooner than later. As for the holes, if the PH II doesn't cover them, fill the old hole with white marine epoxy or just have a fiberglass guy fill and color match it, which is cheap. You can get some boat bruises fixed at the same time. OTOH, Jabsco is pretty good about replacing defective parts for free, even out of warranty. So, other than your time and the development of colorful vocabulary, you can just fix this thing and hope for the best. Heck, mine still works, and I've only sunk $600 into it in three and a half years... well, OK that includes a new pump for the other one too. Rick D.
If you don't want to wind up like me with a boat full of spare Jabsco parts and a $600 head, you might consider changing out to a PHII sooner than later. As for the holes, if the PH II doesn't cover them, fill the old hole with white marine epoxy or just have a fiberglass guy fill and color match it, which is cheap. You can get some boat bruises fixed at the same time. OTOH, Jabsco is pretty good about replacing defective parts for free, even out of warranty. So, other than your time and the development of colorful vocabulary, you can just fix this thing and hope for the best. Heck, mine still works, and I've only sunk $600 into it in three and a half years... well, OK that includes a new pump for the other one too. Rick D.
Answers to your questions
1. No. 2. The Jabsco manual toilet is THE most basic compact toilet on the market (also the cheapest, which is why it's the OEM toilet of choice on almost every production boat)--too basic/compact for 40' boat. IMO, on your boat, on an inland lake, a balky Jabsco manual is best excuse you could ask for to upgrade to the push-button convenience of an electric macerating toilet. And my choice would be the Raritan SeaEra, which is available as either a complete toilet or a "conversion kit" (everything but the bowl, seat and lid, and is the ONLY toilet I've never been asked to trouble-shoot. Check it out on the Raritan website at http://www.raritaneng.com The only toilet that's ever likely to match the mounting bolt holes for any existing toilet is an identical replacement built within a couple of years of the existing one. But that's no big deal...fill the existing holes and touch 'em up with a little pain that matches the gelcoat or a gelcoat repair kit...on a boat that new, either will match enough to hide them from anyone who isn't inspecting your boat with a magnifying glass.
1. No. 2. The Jabsco manual toilet is THE most basic compact toilet on the market (also the cheapest, which is why it's the OEM toilet of choice on almost every production boat)--too basic/compact for 40' boat. IMO, on your boat, on an inland lake, a balky Jabsco manual is best excuse you could ask for to upgrade to the push-button convenience of an electric macerating toilet. And my choice would be the Raritan SeaEra, which is available as either a complete toilet or a "conversion kit" (everything but the bowl, seat and lid, and is the ONLY toilet I've never been asked to trouble-shoot. Check it out on the Raritan website at http://www.raritaneng.com The only toilet that's ever likely to match the mounting bolt holes for any existing toilet is an identical replacement built within a couple of years of the existing one. But that's no big deal...fill the existing holes and touch 'em up with a little pain that matches the gelcoat or a gelcoat repair kit...on a boat that new, either will match enough to hide them from anyone who isn't inspecting your boat with a magnifying glass.
Blessing in disguise
Keep filling a gallon jug with fresh water from the boat's tap. This will keep your boatwater cyclcing and fresh, while preventing nasty raw water from getting into your commode in the first place.
Keep filling a gallon jug with fresh water from the boat's tap. This will keep your boatwater cyclcing and fresh, while preventing nasty raw water from getting into your commode in the first place.
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