Simple to change the centerboard linkage, you don't need to
though, most Challengers have done fine the way they are. Some Challenger owners are put off by this notion that a problem exists, some even get angry. It's not a problem for most, I feel, and should be left alone. Just stay away from groundings unless the board is raised, always a good idea on any boat. I have had a few groundings over the years and likely will see more so for someone like me, the change was mandatory.
If you opt for the change:
A simple boatyard fix. Have a pendant made longer than estimated to reach from lifting screw, over the car on the ceiling and down to the top of the board. When the boat is in a lift or hanging from a crane, lower centerboard, grind- cut bronze bar off leaving two plates and clevis pins on bronze centerboard, nicro press the new pendant to the correct length(block board in correct postion-evident by wear), raise it and launch.
The down side to this is the board still rattles in the trunk at times and having the bar may quiet it some but I can't say for sure. I usually raise it just a turn or two to quiet it. BTW, you will use this board alot, raising as you fall off the wind etc. Check the SS pendant every year for corrosion. I intend to correct board play when I come up with a suitable arrangement, any ideas out there?
The upside(s). The board of course now will go into the trunk even with a loose pendant on a grounding.
Another big plus-if you do the additional things I describe in CW article- is the joint at the top of the table is prone to leaking. With this pendant you no longer need to open this joint which was designed to allow you to get to the connnection between the bronze bar and SS pendant.
I removed the bronze trunk housing and bronze pipes and simply had the joint at the top of table brazed together into one solid lower piece-no more leaks at the threaded joint. A backing plate is brazed to the trunk to allow fastening the table top to this larger plate. Extend this lower piece-trunk and pipe with about 4" of bronze pipe for a longer slip joint for changing out the the pendant, made things even stronger.
Having worked on the board parts before, I was always concerned about the lack of strength this whole thing had against a body in a seaway, especially this small thread joint at the tabletop. I wrestled with the leaking pipe thread joint a few times. I'm pleased with the results.
