Crack in Gelcoat has me concerned

[Canonshooternb]

Looking for some advice from the more experienced.

I have a 1985 25.5 Hunter that I bought last year and sailed all summer. In preparation for this season I noticed a crack on the starboard side of the hull about 10 inches above the water line mark. I think it was there last year also but think it may be a little worse.
It does not go through and seems to be just the gelcoat but the hull doesn't seem that thick. On the interior it is located in the V Berth in an area that does not have full access. The interior mold has a round open just below but does not allow enough room to get in there to work.
I have attached some pictures to show what im up against. Can someone give me some guidance. Had a fiberglass guy come by this evening and told me that he would have to cut the interior structure away to repait the hull. He said it would be 3 days work and wanted over 1000. Im not an expert on the process required but that seems a little steep.

I would like to have it repair properly but if I cant I am thinking of cutting a V groove and applying some West systems epoxy, Then adding a 1" fiber glass bandage to the crack to seal it and just go sailing.

Thanks for reading

 

[Steve Dion]

It appears to me that this may have been a previous repair that was not done properly.

I do not see why it could not be repaired by grinding down the area. Lay up a few layers of cloth and refinish with gelcoat.

I had a repair done a few years ago that was a deep gouge (about 18-24in long). It took the repairman about 5 hours. No one can see where the repair was made. $400 including a tip.

 

[Joe]

Get another estimate.... three would be even better. I'm in Steve's camp in that the repair can be made from the outside.

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

I am not sure of the exact location of the crack but agree with Steve it can be repaired. If it is not on the hull, I would not be worried but asthetically it looks bad. Can you please advise the exact location.

dave condon

 

[Sailvayu]

It is hard to tell from the pictures just what is going on and what the location of the crack is. I can say cutting v groove and filling with some epoxy and a bit of tape will do nothing and make a real repair even harder. Tons of info out there on how to do a proper fiberglass repair but I will say do not use epoxy. Your boat is built with polyester so you should repair it with polyester. If done right the repair will be close to original strength.

 

[kloudie1]

Here is a video of what to do.. You probably do not need to go all the way through the hull (so ya don't need to cover the back side) but rather sand down until the crack just disappears and bevel out then patch with a few layers as this shows.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6N7YMr6E564
West (not West Marine, but West Systems) makes a kit to do this.. Definitely use epoxy since polyester will not adhere nearly as strongly to old poly as epoxy will. Go to the West Systems website and look at their papers on how to repair. A little study up front will save much heartburn later. http://www.westsystem.com/ss/west-system-epoxy-for-fiberglass-repair/
A better video for your case; http://www.westsystem.com/ss/repairing-deep-cracks/
EDIT: looks like impact damage from hitting something like a piling .. The fiberglass flexed a lot except the hard spot braced by the internal bunk. That is where it cracked.. again, taper, glass carefully, then refinish and you're done. Good luck.

 

[Canonshooternb]

I am not sure of the exact location of the crack but agree with Steve it can be repaired. If it is not on the hull, I would not be worried but asthetically it looks bad. Can you please advise the exact location.

dave condon

It is exactly 37" foreword of the sink drain in the front. And up 10" from the waterline.
On the inside picture it is at the same height as the cabin plywood that supports the cushions. I can see in the hole but cannot get my hand in far enough to do any work

 

[MSter]

Looks like more than a simple gelcoat crack. I agree, get another quote. FYI the pro's will repair an area approx 8 - 10 x the size of the damage .
good luck
Mster

 

[Ross]

I am guessing that it was an impact damage that has been repaired. The image from the inside doesn't show any fiberglass damage. The curving hairline cracks around the primary crack are what you get in automobile paint when a panel has be buckled in and then popped back out. I would start from the outside and gently grind down through the gelcoatuntil I reached the glass and inspect again for structrual damage. If there is none then repair the gelcoat but if there is damage to the glass it can be repaired from the outside in a day.

 

[RichH]

The only way to be relatively SURE is to get a plastic hammer and TAP the adjacent area to ascertain the audible 'note' you hear from the tapping, then tap along the crack and if that 'note' that you hear is different than the 'note' you hear when tapping 'good' fiberglass, you should consider to 'beef up' or repair the area on the inside of the crack.

To better determine exactly where to apply a structural 'patch' (if needed) is to attempt to shine a VERY STRONG white light (like a very bright halogen 'work light') through the laminate .... usually will visually yield 'lighter areas' to show up indicating crack delamination of the structural ROVING layer has occurred. For such repair of ROVING, its best to do it from 'inside' and simply overlay a 'structural patch' without grinding ..... or grind out the fractured roving at a 12:1 to 20:1 taper and overlay with new glass ROVING. An inside the hull repair will result in the least amount of 'cosmetic' damage.

 

[Sailvayu]

Couple of correction to the above information.
"Definitely use epoxy since polyester will not adhere nearly as strongly to old poly as epoxy will." Secondary bonding with polyester is not a problem and this is a myth by the epoxy lobby. There simply is no reason to use epoxy for this repair it is more expensive and harder to work with. Ask any fiberglass professional and they will agree. tests have shown only a 10% increase in strength between epoxy and polyester, hardly worth spending 5 times as much.
Second "For such repair of ROVING, its best to do it from 'inside' and simply overlay a 'structural patch' without grinding" This is wrong and will result in a failure of the repair and this is why people think polyester does not bond well. You must always grind to clean surface no matter what resin system you are using.

It sounds like this repair will have to be done from the outside in as you cannot access it from the inside.

 

[Jackdaw]

The glass repair should be easy. The color matching, harder.

 

[Sailvayu]

"The glass repair should be easy. The color matching, harder."

That is the truth for sure!

 

[kenn]

Secondary bonding with polyester is not a problem and this is a myth by the epoxy lobby. There simply is no reason to use epoxy for this repair it is more expensive and harder to work with. Ask any fiberglass professional and they will agree. tests have shown only a 10% increase in strength between epoxy and polyester, hardly worth spending 5 times as much.

I have no doubt that a professional or a skilled amateur can produce splendid repair results with polyester or vinylester. but I disagree that epoxy is harder to work with. It's easier to mix, augment and use epoxy, in my opinion, and it's easier for an amateur to produce good results with epoxy.

Material cost is small compared to the labour, so the higher cost of epoxy isn't a big deal.

To the OP - yeah that looks like impact damage that received only superficial repair.

 

[Canonshooternb]

Well I have received 1 quote for over 1000 from a guy who wants to cut away the inside moulding and bolt it back on. - I will pass
Second from a pro shop who looked closely at it and showed me the area that he would to to feather it in and give strength. Much more reasonable price and I like the fact he explained what and why he was doing it.

I am still watching the YouTube video from the feedback you provided and may attempt it myself

 

[Steve Dion]

There is an outfit that sells the Gelcoat already color matched. Shop around and you should find it. You may need a sprayer and a compressor too (but you can borrow a compressor if you don't have one).

 

[Jackdaw]

There is an outfit that sells the Gelcoat already color matched. Shop around and you should find it. You may need a sprayer and a compressor too (but you can borrow a compressor if you don't have one).

The trick is to factor in the 25+ year fade.

 

[Canonshooternb]

The west systems video make it look so easy. Im on the fence whether to try it or not

 

[finding41]

My new boat had this 6" crack. I fixed it in about 2 hours. Properly too.
I could get at my hole from inside. But it isn't that difficult to do it all from the outside. You just need some type of backing.
Check YouTube for the West Marine fiberglass repair. I think they show it simply.
Pic 1 Crack in Laz. 2 Hole I ground out to get to good glass. 3 patch from underneath. Still needs gelcoat. (later this week)

 

[Canonshooternb]

Thanks for sharing, The more I read the responses and watch the video makes me think i just do it myself, Its a small crack above the waterline so it is less risky.
Great pics by the way

Cheers