Is anyone familiar with this coupling? I have already removed it from the transmission and pushed it back to the stuffing b
ox. I removed the two set screws from the coupling to the shaft. My question is, do I remove the four larger screws before I try to press the coupling off the shaft.
Coupling removal
- Thread starter Evil Daddy
- Start date
I am trying to remove it. I would like to replace the stuffing box, cutlass bearing, and then drop the shaft and prop off to be checked.
Once the coupling is disconnected from the reverse gear, slide the shaft aft until there is enough room to slide the coupling off the shaft. However, given the amount of corrosion on the shaft the only solution may be to cut the shaft.
The prop will need to be removed and perhaps the rudder in order for the shaft to slide past the rudder.
Replace with a new SS shaft and split coupling.
Buck-Algonquin does make a tool to pull the flange off the shaft.
www.deepblueyachtsupply.com
The prop will need to be removed and perhaps the rudder in order for the shaft to slide past the rudder.
Replace with a new SS shaft and split coupling.
Buck-Algonquin does make a tool to pull the flange off the shaft.
Flange Pullers Coupler Removal Tool | Marine Hardware
Buck Algonquin Flange Pullers Coupler Removal Tool available at Deep Blue Yacht Supply. All Buck Algonquin Marine Hardware Flange Pullers Coupler Removal Tool are made in the U.S.A, are are backed by Buck Algonquin's limited warranty.
That coupling has a "cross" piece inside that is kind of like a universal joint. I think that the set screws (and a tight fit and a bit of corrosion) are what keeps the shaft from coming out. I think if you pull the big bolts on the od of the collar, the collar will slide toward the stuffing box, revealing a flex element inside . It may make removing the hub from the shaft easier, especially if some heat is judiciously applied to the hub.
There should be a name etc on the hub or collar that you can use to get a parts drawing to see whatcha got.
The "pusher that you've rigged should be able to pull the hub off of the shaft, but it is not unusual to have to cut the shaft to get it out., as Dave says.
There should be a name etc on the hub or collar that you can use to get a parts drawing to see whatcha got.
The "pusher that you've rigged should be able to pull the hub off of the shaft, but it is not unusual to have to cut the shaft to get it out., as Dave says.
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jssailem
SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
- Oct 22, 2014
- 22,219
Serendipity. I was exploring the same dilemma. I reviewed MaineSail's installation of the PYI PSS Dripless shaft seal just the other day. I think @kloudie1 and @dlochner have narrowed the spectrum of ideas correctly.
Here is the article by MaineSail...https://marinehowto.com/installing-a-pss-shaft-seal/
Here is the article by MaineSail...https://marinehowto.com/installing-a-pss-shaft-seal/
jssailem
SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
- Oct 22, 2014
- 22,219
The issue has me carefully rethinking the ideas regarding a PSS or the traditional Stuffing box currently in place. It is not only the tool but the function and the ease of service that needs consideration.
@Evil Daddy, I pulled my drive train out to investigate some fine cracks in the propeller shaft. My coupling was different than yours, but a bear to get off none the less. As others have said, the shaft is probably toast…I know mine was. I took the time and bloody knuckles to get my coupling off, but in the end, replaced the shaft anyway. Could have saved a lot of time (and blood) had I just cut the shaft from the start.
If you do try to remove the coupling, as @kloudie1 says, remove those screws or bolts around the perimeter of the coupling and see if that helps. I have not seen one like that before.
You will need to determine if your rudder has to be removed to replace your shaft…in my case on my O’Day 322, I was able to push the cutlass bearing out of the strut, remove the stuffing box, and get a little wiggle room to get the shaft past the rudder…took a little paint off, but better than dropping the rudder.
I went back with a new SS shaft, and a solid coupling. A year later, I replaced my original stuffing box with a Volvo Penta dripless seal…very simple solution. The one thing I would do differently is to use a split coupling for ease of removal when necessary.
Here are a few videos that may be of interest…
Volvo Penta Shaft Seal Install
Good luck,
Greg
If you do try to remove the coupling, as @kloudie1 says, remove those screws or bolts around the perimeter of the coupling and see if that helps. I have not seen one like that before.
You will need to determine if your rudder has to be removed to replace your shaft…in my case on my O’Day 322, I was able to push the cutlass bearing out of the strut, remove the stuffing box, and get a little wiggle room to get the shaft past the rudder…took a little paint off, but better than dropping the rudder.
I went back with a new SS shaft, and a solid coupling. A year later, I replaced my original stuffing box with a Volvo Penta dripless seal…very simple solution. The one thing I would do differently is to use a split coupling for ease of removal when necessary.
Here are a few videos that may be of interest…
Volvo Penta Shaft Seal Install
Good luck,
Greg
How do you mean ?
The stuffing box is easy to maintain but always has a bit of water flinging around unless you know how to run it dry.
On the other hand :
The PSS requires no maintenance and has no water flinging around UNTIL the time comes to replace the rubber diaphragm. The manuals indicate every 6 to 7 years. It then it becomes a major undertaking to pull the coupling, retract the shaft, replace what needs replacing, and then reassemble. This as opposed to :
- raising the boat
- pumping out the water
- removing the dead fish,
- replacing all of the electrical & electronic equipment
- replacing all of the electrical wiring
- servicing the engine for a salt water sinking
- replacing the interior paneling
- drying out the bedding
- drying out the upholstery cushions
Which is better, assuming you periodically maintain the stuffing box as required ?
jssailem
SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
- Oct 22, 2014
- 22,219
My challenge on my boat is that the shaft lies in the bilge space under the engine with limited access to the shaft. My concern is we will get the shaft seal on, install the engine, then not be able to collapse the bellows the required 3/4 inch and secure the collar without dropping all the set screws into the 4ft deep pit. Dealing with the stuffing box is a pain, but it is possible.
The boat uses a BorgWarner V-Drive.
The boat uses a BorgWarner V-Drive.
Buy extra set screws.
The set screws are cup point Allen screws. The first set of screws can be started before applying pressure on the bellows. Once the bellows has been compressed one tightened screw will hold it in place long enough to tighten the second one. Now you can breathe deep. The second set of screws are there to keep the first set from vibrating out. You can take your time setting them.
The one big downside to the PSS seal is the potential for a catastrophic failure of the bellows. In which case there will be a large hole in the boat through which copious amounts of water will flow. With that said, I have one and I don't worry too much about that. The bellows gets inspected every spring and it is easy to access. Replacing the bellow is not all that difficult if you have a split coupling and you spray the coupling with an anti-corrision spray like Boeshield or the CRC stuff.
Always an issue with a V drive, shaft log and seal usually end up under the oil pan.. Had the same on our Choate 40 years back. Did use a PSS dripless and had no issues though access certainly was difficult (and no 4' bilge pit.... maybe not even 4 inches! )
Collapsing the bellows is a pain in the butt generally but can be made super-easy by fashioning a simple tool (in case you are unaware of this):
PSS Shaft Seal - Bellows Degradtion
Wasted my time, I guess. Time will tell...:cowbell: You know the answer, self life problem. Jim...
forums.sailboatowners.com
Volvo Penta dripless is very compact…
May be worth a look. I am very pleased with mine after 1 season.
Greg