HAS ANYONE HAD TO REPLACE THE COUNTER SURFACES ON A 1985 25.5? What did you use and did you find the original material?
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Counter Top
I do not need to do this - thank heaven. I believe mine to be 3/4" plywood with a Formica surface. If in doubt check under the sink or take out the stovetop. If I needed a new top, I would first examine the mating surfaces ie. hatch to the ice box or fridge, sink, and bulkhead paneling. If there were no issues with thickness I would consider an upgrade to a solid surface material. I would remove the existing top and take it to places like Home Depot, Menards, Lowes, etc. where they will order custom tops, I believe that regardless of material used, they will be less expensive than the local custom kitchen shop. The plywood/formica option is something you can do yourself. First (if needed), make a new piece of plywood to fit then glue on the formica with contact cement. Trim with matching wood veneer or metal. If not interested in doing it yourself, ask around to find a local cabinet maker who has done work on boats in your area.
I do not need to do this - thank heaven. I believe mine to be 3/4" plywood with a Formica surface. If in doubt check under the sink or take out the stovetop. If I needed a new top, I would first examine the mating surfaces ie. hatch to the ice box or fridge, sink, and bulkhead paneling. If there were no issues with thickness I would consider an upgrade to a solid surface material. I would remove the existing top and take it to places like Home Depot, Menards, Lowes, etc. where they will order custom tops, I believe that regardless of material used, they will be less expensive than the local custom kitchen shop. The plywood/formica option is something you can do yourself. First (if needed), make a new piece of plywood to fit then glue on the formica with contact cement. Trim with matching wood veneer or metal. If not interested in doing it yourself, ask around to find a local cabinet maker who has done work on boats in your area.
Fairly big job...formica, contact cement, router..
hand file. Most of the work requires the removial of the sink and trim. I'd put the formica on top of the old material. I've even considered tile with a rubberized grout. I've seen marble on the big buck yachts. Good luck and do one area at a time.
hand file. Most of the work requires the removial of the sink and trim. I'd put the formica on top of the old material. I've even considered tile with a rubberized grout. I've seen marble on the big buck yachts. Good luck and do one area at a time.
Counter top
1st check to see if the counter top can be removed. On our 28.5, it extends into the enclosed shelf area behind the sink and you'd need to take apart half the head. None-the-less it's easy enough to take out the sink and the teak edge trim; buy a half sheet of Formica from Lowe's or Home Depot along with the spray adhesive and a roller. First cut a paper template to fit, then cut the Formica with a very fine tooth saber saw blade. Dry fit the piece; do the spray adhesive in good ventilation and set one edge and roll it toward the opposite to eliminate bubbles. You can do the same with the walls; maybe don't even need to do a whole area if you make a horizontal cut and tack a teak trim strip over the joint. God Luck.
1st check to see if the counter top can be removed. On our 28.5, it extends into the enclosed shelf area behind the sink and you'd need to take apart half the head. None-the-less it's easy enough to take out the sink and the teak edge trim; buy a half sheet of Formica from Lowe's or Home Depot along with the spray adhesive and a roller. First cut a paper template to fit, then cut the Formica with a very fine tooth saber saw blade. Dry fit the piece; do the spray adhesive in good ventilation and set one edge and roll it toward the opposite to eliminate bubbles. You can do the same with the walls; maybe don't even need to do a whole area if you make a horizontal cut and tack a teak trim strip over the joint. God Luck.
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