OK, so here I am with a used Hunter 18.5 and not much in the way of instructions. I'm moving up from a smaller daysailer and obviously trying to get used to heavier rigging. The boat currently has cotter ring "keepers" on the stay turnbuckles. Previous owner apparently never adjusted the tension and when stepping the mast had to fight the full stay tension to get the forstay attached. This seems really difficult to me. I'm accustomed to stepping the mast with loose stays and then tightening them up before launching. On the other hand, I'm not wild about removing and replacing 8 cotter rings every time I want to adjust the stay tension (the turnbuckles cannot be rotated with the rings in place because the ring diameter is larger than the "inner" radius of the turnbuckle). Anybody using something else to keep the turnbuckles from coming completely apart? Something that can remain in place when adjusting the turnbuckles? Thanks!
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I've never loosened the shrouds either but...
I've only had my H23.5 for two seasons now. The shrouds supposedly set correctly when I got the boat and didn't make it hard to raise the mast or attach the forestay, but the forestay turnbuckle had to be loosened all the way. At the end of last season I bought a Loos guage and found that the shrouds were only half as tight as they should be. This summer I'll get them tight before launching. I have a marina slip and only launch once a year. I have no idea if the tighter shrouds will mean having to loosen them to raise the mast and attach the forestay. If I do, I'll be looking for the same thing as you - something easier than the split rings currently in the shroud turnbuckles!
I've only had my H23.5 for two seasons now. The shrouds supposedly set correctly when I got the boat and didn't make it hard to raise the mast or attach the forestay, but the forestay turnbuckle had to be loosened all the way. At the end of last season I bought a Loos guage and found that the shrouds were only half as tight as they should be. This summer I'll get them tight before launching. I have a marina slip and only launch once a year. I have no idea if the tighter shrouds will mean having to loosen them to raise the mast and attach the forestay. If I do, I'll be looking for the same thing as you - something easier than the split rings currently in the shroud turnbuckles!
Cotters
On our 216 shroud turnbuckles,we were told to use cotter pins not rings. They should be just long enough to keep the turnbuckle from turning once adjusted. Works great! Easy to install and remove. We then wrapped the buckle with a bit of rigging tape to prevent one being scratched by any protruding points.
On our 216 shroud turnbuckles,we were told to use cotter pins not rings. They should be just long enough to keep the turnbuckle from turning once adjusted. Works great! Easy to install and remove. We then wrapped the buckle with a bit of rigging tape to prevent one being scratched by any protruding points.
stainless steel welding rods
I had Brion Toss tune my H380 B and R rig and he uses stainless steel welding rods. They look good, don't catch on anything and are quck. You might want to check his web site.
I had Brion Toss tune my H380 B and R rig and he uses stainless steel welding rods. They look good, don't catch on anything and are quck. You might want to check his web site.
Rods?
Interesting. I assume the rods are bent once inserted to keep them from coming out? Do you have to re-bend them each time they are removed to adjust the turnbuckle and re-inserted? We're planning on trailer launching this boat each time we sail, which will require a lot of tightening and loosening the stays to step the mast. I'm wondering how many bending cycles the rods would take before breaking (sort of like a paper clip when you bend it enough times). Or are the rods permanently bent in a shape that will allow them to be removed and yet not slip out on their own? By the way, I learned to sail through a Watcom County Parks Dept. class there on Bellingham bay. What an awesome place to be afloat!!!
Interesting. I assume the rods are bent once inserted to keep them from coming out? Do you have to re-bend them each time they are removed to adjust the turnbuckle and re-inserted? We're planning on trailer launching this boat each time we sail, which will require a lot of tightening and loosening the stays to step the mast. I'm wondering how many bending cycles the rods would take before breaking (sort of like a paper clip when you bend it enough times). Or are the rods permanently bent in a shape that will allow them to be removed and yet not slip out on their own? By the way, I learned to sail through a Watcom County Parks Dept. class there on Bellingham bay. What an awesome place to be afloat!!!
Yup, stainless steel welding rods
Brion bends the wire with his pliers into a square "U" shape which fits the holes in the turning rods. Once through, he bends them down. They look great and never catch on anything. I don't know how malable stainless steel is? Maybe there are other wire rods that would work as well--I really don't know I've listed Brion Toss' web site address. Not being a rigger, I think you ought to write him--I'm just a skipper and you know that skippers know nothing. (An aside to Phil: Would Brion Toss be a good guest expert to have on this website? Greetings from Bellingham and the San Juan Islands Les
Brion bends the wire with his pliers into a square "U" shape which fits the holes in the turning rods. Once through, he bends them down. They look great and never catch on anything. I don't know how malable stainless steel is? Maybe there are other wire rods that would work as well--I really don't know I've listed Brion Toss' web site address. Not being a rigger, I think you ought to write him--I'm just a skipper and you know that skippers know nothing. (An aside to Phil: Would Brion Toss be a good guest expert to have on this website? Greetings from Bellingham and the San Juan Islands Les
cotters
I've always used ring clips but have had them come off before. Probably after being snagged by the jib sheet but who knows. This year I'm going with the cotter pins and taping them with rigging tape. Then I'll know they are set and haven't been tampered with. Of course I leave my boat at the dock and don't have to step the mast every week.
I've always used ring clips but have had them come off before. Probably after being snagged by the jib sheet but who knows. This year I'm going with the cotter pins and taping them with rigging tape. Then I'll know they are set and haven't been tampered with. Of course I leave my boat at the dock and don't have to step the mast every week.
Rings vs cotter pins & welding rod
Cotter pins or welding rod are better if you only adjust your rig once a year or so. Every time the rig is tuned, the rigger should replace the cotters. However, if you trailer the boat frequently, the turnbuckles have to be loosened every time to make mast raising easier. Since rings don't have to be taped and they can be re-used, they are faster and cheaper than pins or wire. Here's something that works for me. When raising and lowering the mast, I wear a tool pouch with all the stuff I need. They include regular and needle-nose pliers, small vise-grips, screwdrivers, surveyors tape, a small, clear plastic box for tiny bits and pieces and LOTS of extra cotter rings in case I drop one. Peter H23 "Raven"
Cotter pins or welding rod are better if you only adjust your rig once a year or so. Every time the rig is tuned, the rigger should replace the cotters. However, if you trailer the boat frequently, the turnbuckles have to be loosened every time to make mast raising easier. Since rings don't have to be taped and they can be re-used, they are faster and cheaper than pins or wire. Here's something that works for me. When raising and lowering the mast, I wear a tool pouch with all the stuff I need. They include regular and needle-nose pliers, small vise-grips, screwdrivers, surveyors tape, a small, clear plastic box for tiny bits and pieces and LOTS of extra cotter rings in case I drop one. Peter H23 "Raven"
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