Corrosion on keel bolts

[Steverhnm]

I would like to know if anyone has experience removing their keel bolt hardware. Unfortunately (in my opinion) Hunter used plain steel washers under the stainless steel nuts and bolts for their keel fasteners. I believe their thinking was to alert you to corrosion, sounds like a weak idea. In a bilge that get shower water drain (and seawater) therefore never dry, this will cause corrosion. My washers are all rust. I tried removing them, but my 300 Lbs behind the breaker bar was not enough. I was considering spraying with PB Blaster but wondered if that might not be a good idea. I am concerned about crevice corrosion now that the washers have swollen and possibly blocked off any oxygen the bolts need to maintain their integrity.

Primarily theses are the bolts where the bilge pump lives. I have created a plastic box/shower sump drain so the bilge is now dry (used your idea ElMax - excellent), causing even more concern over the aggressive corrosion.

I would like to clean and dry the bolts and replace the washers with 314 SS washers (not cheap... $7-10 ea - no wonder they didn't use SS) and put some corrosion prevention down or maybe even a little "coffer-dam" around the bolts to keep them dry.

Anybody have to do this? What were your results? Any suggestions for the task? Will the PB Blaster cause problems if it gets down to the keel bolt/keel interface?

Thanks.

 

[ELMAX]

Not easy ... and the place to work and narrow, I have built a key to doing this by combining a longer bar. A photo would help to understand the situation ...

 

[Bob 04 H260]

I think a long soak in pb blaster will help. Then try a 3/4" drive 4:1 torque multiplier between the socket and the bar. You might be able to borrow or rent it from a heavy truck/machinery mechanic. Harbour Freight may sell them. I bought one from Princess Auto here in Canada.
Good luck, Bob

 

[JamesG161]

An easier way is to put a zinc in you bilge water, connect the bolts electrically, maybe a stainless hose clamp with spade wire hook up.
wahhh lahhhh no more galvanic loss. You can easlily change the zinc. My guess, 8oz zinc will last a couple of years.
Jim...

 

[ELMAX]

I put one zinc, if it enters water in the bilge. I made sure the bilge is always dry.

 

[Steverhnm]

ElMax, I think you have the best looking bilge I have ever seen.....

 

[ELMAX]

Thanks I hope you are my helpful suggestions ....

 

[JDemo]

Where did you go to find the backing plates and nuts? I would like to clean up my Passage 42 CC. Backing plates look very rusted. I thought the plates were mild steel? Only fresh water in the bilge. Mostly from refer/freezer condensation.

 

[ELMAX]

I have not replaced them, I took them, cleaned, put back, I used to clean the drill with a bronze brush. Hello

 

[Steverhnm]

You can get 316 ss washers from Fastenal online. Not cheap, about $8 each.

 

[JDemo]

Thanks, mine are beyond saving. I can clean up the nuts, but I will have to replace the washers. My bolts stand side by side in pairs fairly close together. That's why I thought there was a specific part from Hunter. A regular round washer will need to be ground flat on one side to not interfere with the neighboring bolt.
Thanks
Grazie mille

 

[CloudDiver]

You can get 316 ss washers from Fastenal online. Not cheap, about $8 each.

Steve, try McMaster-Carr to get 316 Stainless washers. I love Fastenal for many things but they mark up everything to the max. McMaster Carr isn't always the cheapest for everything either, but the site is much easier to navigate. When you do a search and you can set specifics by size & length of faster, but more importantly in this case you can limit search results to washers made of 316 stainless. See link below, washers in 1 inch ID of 316 SS can be had for $4 ea. Their international shipping could be more reliable than Fastenal (maybe).
http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-washers/=11tnlru

If you ever come up to the mainland let me know, I could cut you some bilge plates from stainless sheet with my plasma cutter, you would have to bring templates made of stiff cardboard or plywood so I can cut it right the first time.

 

[Jeff Jellick]

Are you doing this work with your boat in or out of the water?
Jeff

 

[JDemo]

I wanted to do it in the water, but was advised by a local tech that proper torquing was only done with weight on the keel.
What is your opinion ?

 

[Jeff Jellick]

That is what I have would have done, (out of the water with some weight on the keel). I just couldn't tell from the above discussion.
Thanks,
Jeff

 

[Steverhnm]

When I do it, it will be out of the water, resting on the keel and stands