The Perko engine raw water strainer on my 30T (1991) is covered with green corrosion due to salt water on it over many years. It does not leak and except for its appearance it is in good condition. Although I am the only one that sees it I am bothered by its appearance and wonder if someone knows of a good way to clean it. Or is it not worth the effort and something I should forget about?
Corroded Raw Water Strainer
- Thread starter Roy Mosteller
- Start date
- Status
Hi Ray, all of ours have that green oxide,...
too. They are all out of sight so I don't worry about it. I suppose you can get a bronze cleaner to remove the oxidation if you want the original bronze color to show. It would be better to apply that effort towards sailing if you ask me. Terry
too. They are all out of sight so I don't worry about it. I suppose you can get a bronze cleaner to remove the oxidation if you want the original bronze color to show. It would be better to apply that effort towards sailing if you ask me. Terry
Hi Roy, all of ours have that green oxide,...
too. They are all out of sight so I don't worry about it. I suppose you can get a bronze cleaner to remove the oxidation if you want the original bronze color to show. It would be better to apply that effort towards sailing if you ask me. Terry
too. They are all out of sight so I don't worry about it. I suppose you can get a bronze cleaner to remove the oxidation if you want the original bronze color to show. It would be better to apply that effort towards sailing if you ask me. Terry
Roy, my Perko was 18 years old
and same model as yours ( all salt water years) when one of the bolts with the wing nuts broke one day when I was opening it up to clean the filter. It had corroded or the pin at the bottom had. So check the lock down bolts.
and same model as yours ( all salt water years) when one of the bolts with the wing nuts broke one day when I was opening it up to clean the filter. It had corroded or the pin at the bottom had. So check the lock down bolts.
Some things to try!
I read that simple green works. Spray it on, let it sit for a while and then use a brush to finish it up. Another method was vinegar & salt. I would think that you would want to put it on and also let it sit for a while and brush and rinse. Both of these are cheap, so it is worth a try. I would also consider replacing all of the bolts when you are doing this.
I read that simple green works. Spray it on, let it sit for a while and then use a brush to finish it up. Another method was vinegar & salt. I would think that you would want to put it on and also let it sit for a while and brush and rinse. Both of these are cheap, so it is worth a try. I would also consider replacing all of the bolts when you are doing this.
Pay attention to the hold downs
Mine was green too and one day the there was no water output in the exhaust. I began tearing apart the pumps,hoses etc. The culprit was the hold down stud that allowed the strainer lid to lose prime. It looked ok from the top but the corrosion was where it attached to the lid. Without prime/suction your engine won't cool. If its old and corroded - replace the studs, lid, or the whole thing. Its not that expensive to have peace of mind. Ounce of prevention - Regards, Dan O'side H45
Mine was green too and one day the there was no water output in the exhaust. I began tearing apart the pumps,hoses etc. The culprit was the hold down stud that allowed the strainer lid to lose prime. It looked ok from the top but the corrosion was where it attached to the lid. Without prime/suction your engine won't cool. If its old and corroded - replace the studs, lid, or the whole thing. Its not that expensive to have peace of mind. Ounce of prevention - Regards, Dan O'side H45
The body is bronze
and the verdigris is a natural product of the bronze that develops over time. That's why you see copper topped roofs on houses eventually turn to green. It is not necessary to clean off as it does no harm that I know of. Even if you do clean it back to a lovely bronze color it will quickly return to green. The wing nuts, posts, rods, etc. that the other posters spoke of are probably stainless of some grade and should be monitored carefully.
and the verdigris is a natural product of the bronze that develops over time. That's why you see copper topped roofs on houses eventually turn to green. It is not necessary to clean off as it does no harm that I know of. Even if you do clean it back to a lovely bronze color it will quickly return to green. The wing nuts, posts, rods, etc. that the other posters spoke of are probably stainless of some grade and should be monitored carefully.
Mine sure turned green. But not from use.
From being carried in the bilge sump for ten years. On my H34 that thing did NOTHING to stop crud from plugging-up the cooling system. One time I even had a seaweed all the way to the raw water impeller. I installed one of those simple, external, colander-style strainers over the inlet. Perfect. I guess I kept the Perko around so as not to burn its' bridge. And to remind me of how bad it performed its' task.
From being carried in the bilge sump for ten years. On my H34 that thing did NOTHING to stop crud from plugging-up the cooling system. One time I even had a seaweed all the way to the raw water impeller. I installed one of those simple, external, colander-style strainers over the inlet. Perfect. I guess I kept the Perko around so as not to burn its' bridge. And to remind me of how bad it performed its' task.
- Status