The task of buffing off the wax was difficult last spring since I used one of those toy buffers ($39.00). I am told that if I use one of those hi speed buffers that I could cause serious damage if I let it get out of control. (too fast a speed). Should I just go back to good old fashion "elbow grease"? Regards
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No such thing as too high speed.
The correct tool for this job is big & heavy and nothing else works anything like it. 2 K RPM range. And yes, you do need to be careful on the edges but it's fairly obvious once you use it. use polishing compound instead of rubbing compound to be less aggressive. The thing is, this tool allows you to fly through the job because it can handle the work. The under powered units cause you to spend too much time in one place. Good luck
The correct tool for this job is big & heavy and nothing else works anything like it. 2 K RPM range. And yes, you do need to be careful on the edges but it's fairly obvious once you use it. use polishing compound instead of rubbing compound to be less aggressive. The thing is, this tool allows you to fly through the job because it can handle the work. The under powered units cause you to spend too much time in one place. Good luck
3M buffing pads
Go to harbor frieght and type in search for "Polishers". You can get a fairly decent machine for around $50. I have used mine several times and it keeps on ticking. Also, you must use a 3M buffing pad. They run about $35 retail and are dubble sided, and they thread onto the arbor of the polisher. You will also need the arbor extender made by 3M as well, about $9-10. There are other messages in the archieves concerning type of polish/wax and the method for using each. Good luck.
Go to harbor frieght and type in search for "Polishers". You can get a fairly decent machine for around $50. I have used mine several times and it keeps on ticking. Also, you must use a 3M buffing pad. They run about $35 retail and are dubble sided, and they thread onto the arbor of the polisher. You will also need the arbor extender made by 3M as well, about $9-10. There are other messages in the archieves concerning type of polish/wax and the method for using each. Good luck.
B&D Wax Buffer
I have used a Black & Decker orbital buffer specifically designed for buffing. It can be use to both apply/buff cleaner wax. Make sure that the buffer has enough "orbits" to do the job of removing the wax. Change bonnets for waxing/buffing. I have several bonnets that I use since they do clog up after a while. I have tried the hand-held buffers that are designed for automobile use (twin-handles - one on either side of the head) and haven't been pleased with the performance. Still, even after removing the wax, nothing does better than a final rub-down with minor elbow grease.
I have used a Black & Decker orbital buffer specifically designed for buffing. It can be use to both apply/buff cleaner wax. Make sure that the buffer has enough "orbits" to do the job of removing the wax. Change bonnets for waxing/buffing. I have several bonnets that I use since they do clog up after a while. I have tried the hand-held buffers that are designed for automobile use (twin-handles - one on either side of the head) and haven't been pleased with the performance. Still, even after removing the wax, nothing does better than a final rub-down with minor elbow grease.
MICRO FIBER
MICRO FIBER TOWELS ARE THE ULTIMATE WAY TO WAX THE HULL. MY 310 HAS BEEN GIVEN A POLISH TREATMENT AND FINISH WITH COLLINITE WAX. RESULTS ARE AWESOME. THE TOWELS ARE A LOT LIGHTER THAN A BUFFER AND GET BETTER RESULTS. NO STREAKING.
MICRO FIBER TOWELS ARE THE ULTIMATE WAY TO WAX THE HULL. MY 310 HAS BEEN GIVEN A POLISH TREATMENT AND FINISH WITH COLLINITE WAX. RESULTS ARE AWESOME. THE TOWELS ARE A LOT LIGHTER THAN A BUFFER AND GET BETTER RESULTS. NO STREAKING.
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