Just went in the water yesterday and I have two leaks, the drive shaft stuffing box has a drop every 5-7 seconds at the nut, and the rudder stuffing box is a little quicker. I know that the drive shaft should drip, but isn't it only when the shaft is spinning? and how do I tighten it(which side of the nut) so that I know it is not too tight. and on the rudder side, does that nut (looks similar to drive shaft nut) perform the same function? that is wher it looks like the drip is starting from...in between the nut. thanks, greg
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Ken Palmer
Answers
The prop shaft should not be leaking when the prop is not turning. Keep in mind that when you first launch, it may take several days for the flax to get wet again and expand, so wait a bit before tightening. I have an excellent link listed below that gives you everything you need to know about stuffing boxes. As for the stuffing box on the rudder, I just replaced the stuffing on my 1981 H33. All I can say about that is....YUK!!! There is a series of photos in the picture forum from a month or two ago that I did. You might take a look at that. Ken Palmer, S/V Liberty my website: www.lakeontariosailing.com
The prop shaft should not be leaking when the prop is not turning. Keep in mind that when you first launch, it may take several days for the flax to get wet again and expand, so wait a bit before tightening. I have an excellent link listed below that gives you everything you need to know about stuffing boxes. As for the stuffing box on the rudder, I just replaced the stuffing on my 1981 H33. All I can say about that is....YUK!!! There is a series of photos in the picture forum from a month or two ago that I did. You might take a look at that. Ken Palmer, S/V Liberty my website: www.lakeontariosailing.com
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Bill O'Donovan
More answers
Go into the Archives on this site, type in the words stuffing box, and check messages instead of title. You'll get 480 posts. If you'd like, I have condensed many of the relevant posts into a service advisory. Email me at bodonovan@vagazette.com and provide your snail mailing address.
Go into the Archives on this site, type in the words stuffing box, and check messages instead of title. You'll get 480 posts. If you'd like, I have condensed many of the relevant posts into a service advisory. Email me at bodonovan@vagazette.com and provide your snail mailing address.
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Greg Sampson
Ken..
checked out your photo's of the rudder post...my question is can I attempt to tighten the nuts in the water and is that nut attaching the rudder to the post? I wouldn't mind giving tightening a shot, I just don't want to turn anything the wrong way and end up dropping the rudder, then I would be Fubar!
checked out your photo's of the rudder post...my question is can I attempt to tighten the nuts in the water and is that nut attaching the rudder to the post? I wouldn't mind giving tightening a shot, I just don't want to turn anything the wrong way and end up dropping the rudder, then I would be Fubar!
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Ron
Learning How
Go to a boatyard and pay them to show you how it's done. It isn't hard, but it is a bit nerve wracking the first time. You can change both packings while the boat is in the water. I do it on my boat and others. Best to watch someone else the first time if just for confidence. It will cost you about a half hour of labor. Also, go to a boat store and buy two packing nut wrenches. They are under ten bucks each. They make the job 100% easier. Once you set them for your size nut you leave them set. Then slight agjustments are a breeze... Ron/KA5HZV
Go to a boatyard and pay them to show you how it's done. It isn't hard, but it is a bit nerve wracking the first time. You can change both packings while the boat is in the water. I do it on my boat and others. Best to watch someone else the first time if just for confidence. It will cost you about a half hour of labor. Also, go to a boat store and buy two packing nut wrenches. They are under ten bucks each. They make the job 100% easier. Once you set them for your size nut you leave them set. Then slight agjustments are a breeze... Ron/KA5HZV
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Peter Roach
A couple of more suggestions
When I replace the stuffing for the first time I buy 2 of every type of packing known to man. That way you don't get 1/2 way through the job and have to run to the store for more. Keep the receipts and return what you don't need. This is a two person job. One guy to do the work and one to run get anyting that is needed. You will have a lot of water coming into your boat. Get a couple of dental picks an the small plyers that have bent pinchers. It will help get the original packing out. There are usually several layers of packing that need to come out. You will know you have the last one out - Trust me ;-) When you put the packing back in make sure the seams on the different layers don't line up. If you are in doubt about the packing then replace it. I would not just tighten the nuts MAKE SURE YOU HOLD THE NUT GOING TOWARD THE HULL WITH A WRENCH. You really don't want to break the holder. For your piece of mind. Go over by the lift and do it there. You will probably be able to find a guy in the yard that will advise you for free. Buy him a case of beer after you are finished. Good luck. It is not hard but it is a little nerve racking.
When I replace the stuffing for the first time I buy 2 of every type of packing known to man. That way you don't get 1/2 way through the job and have to run to the store for more. Keep the receipts and return what you don't need. This is a two person job. One guy to do the work and one to run get anyting that is needed. You will have a lot of water coming into your boat. Get a couple of dental picks an the small plyers that have bent pinchers. It will help get the original packing out. There are usually several layers of packing that need to come out. You will know you have the last one out - Trust me ;-) When you put the packing back in make sure the seams on the different layers don't line up. If you are in doubt about the packing then replace it. I would not just tighten the nuts MAKE SURE YOU HOLD THE NUT GOING TOWARD THE HULL WITH A WRENCH. You really don't want to break the holder. For your piece of mind. Go over by the lift and do it there. You will probably be able to find a guy in the yard that will advise you for free. Buy him a case of beer after you are finished. Good luck. It is not hard but it is a little nerve racking.
Two wrenches!
Greg: The best thing for the tightening the stuffing box is TWO pipe wrenches. One to hold the stationary nut and the another to turn the other nut. You are correct, NO DRIPPING when the shaft is not turning. If you change to teflon packing, there is no drip when the shaft is spinning. You can find the size of packing from the Hunter Marine Site. There is a section for FAQ and it is posted there (saves a trip to the store to return the wrong stuff). Can't help you with rubber stuffing box.
Greg: The best thing for the tightening the stuffing box is TWO pipe wrenches. One to hold the stationary nut and the another to turn the other nut. You are correct, NO DRIPPING when the shaft is not turning. If you change to teflon packing, there is no drip when the shaft is spinning. You can find the size of packing from the Hunter Marine Site. There is a section for FAQ and it is posted there (saves a trip to the store to return the wrong stuff). Can't help you with rubber stuffing box.
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David
Stuffing box
I agree with Ron's suggestion of having the yard do it and observing the first time. The marine supply stores sell the packing nut wrenches but you can buy the same item at a hardware store. They are in the plumbing department but are not called pipe wrenches.
I agree with Ron's suggestion of having the yard do it and observing the first time. The marine supply stores sell the packing nut wrenches but you can buy the same item at a hardware store. They are in the plumbing department but are not called pipe wrenches.
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Ken Palmer
No Problem
Yes, you can tighten the rudder post nuts while in the water. Those nuts do not hold the rudder up. There is a collar around the rudder post higher up that holds it. There is also the wheel holding the steering cables. As I mentioned in the photo forum, those nuts may be frozen in place on your 20 year old boat. Give them a good soaking with stuff from your local automotive parts store. Let sit for a while, then turn the bottom nut clockwise. This is the locking nut, and may take a few taps from a small hammer and chisel, or a couple wrenches. This is a very tight area to work in, so long handles are out. I used a large pair of channel-lock pliers. Once the bottom nut has turned a turn or so, turn the larger top nut clockwise and snug it up. This compresses the stuffing material, and should stop the leak. Tighten the locking nut when finished, and check it after a day or so. If you can't get the leak to stop, you may end up replacing the flax. I would hold off doing that until the boat is pulled out of the water. Your bilge pump should be able to handle so leakage from the rudder stuffing box. Ken Palmer, S/V Liberty
Yes, you can tighten the rudder post nuts while in the water. Those nuts do not hold the rudder up. There is a collar around the rudder post higher up that holds it. There is also the wheel holding the steering cables. As I mentioned in the photo forum, those nuts may be frozen in place on your 20 year old boat. Give them a good soaking with stuff from your local automotive parts store. Let sit for a while, then turn the bottom nut clockwise. This is the locking nut, and may take a few taps from a small hammer and chisel, or a couple wrenches. This is a very tight area to work in, so long handles are out. I used a large pair of channel-lock pliers. Once the bottom nut has turned a turn or so, turn the larger top nut clockwise and snug it up. This compresses the stuffing material, and should stop the leak. Tighten the locking nut when finished, and check it after a day or so. If you can't get the leak to stop, you may end up replacing the flax. I would hold off doing that until the boat is pulled out of the water. Your bilge pump should be able to handle so leakage from the rudder stuffing box. Ken Palmer, S/V Liberty
Do NOT buy adjustable packing nut wrenches.
Do not waste you money on these adjustable packing nut wrenches. They are the cheapest piece of shit that are made. If you do not want to use pipe wrenches, then look at the ones that are fixed for your size of nuts. (please excuse this post)
Do not waste you money on these adjustable packing nut wrenches. They are the cheapest piece of shit that are made. If you do not want to use pipe wrenches, then look at the ones that are fixed for your size of nuts. (please excuse this post)
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David
Packing adjustment
Greg, the comment made about the quality of the packing nut wrenches has some merit but I would not call them a piece of s___. Most yards use them because they have a more uniform grip and are less cumbersome. Obviously, the exact size open end would be better but that becomes quite expensive.
Greg, the comment made about the quality of the packing nut wrenches has some merit but I would not call them a piece of s___. Most yards use them because they have a more uniform grip and are less cumbersome. Obviously, the exact size open end would be better but that becomes quite expensive.
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Doug T.
Wrenches
The correct size (non-adjustable) aren't that expensive if you only own one boat.......
The correct size (non-adjustable) aren't that expensive if you only own one boat.......
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Ron
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Greg Sampson
Thanks for the info....
will attempt this weekend, if motivated, now that I have been with the boat all weekend the drips have slowed (although still there) and the amount of water is kind of inconsequential. thanks again, Greg
will attempt this weekend, if motivated, now that I have been with the boat all weekend the drips have slowed (although still there) and the amount of water is kind of inconsequential. thanks again, Greg
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Guest
Just good ol' tiawaneese junk
Ron: These are just very poorly made. If you have plastic nuts on the stuffing box they are okay. If you stuffing box is bronze then they are really not up to the job. If something works for you, your should stay with it. It is just if you are buying new, then spend a couple of extra bucks and get a "little bit of quality". PS: I also use the adjustable on our plastic and it works OK.
Ron: These are just very poorly made. If you have plastic nuts on the stuffing box they are okay. If you stuffing box is bronze then they are really not up to the job. If something works for you, your should stay with it. It is just if you are buying new, then spend a couple of extra bucks and get a "little bit of quality". PS: I also use the adjustable on our plastic and it works OK.
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Sam Lust
Rubber Wrenches
I have to agree with Steve on this one. The wrenches sold for this are in fact intended for light severity use in domestic plumbing. They are too cumbersome and light to wack open a 2" bronze nut on a boat; particularly a Hunter 33. Remember, I've been there! I carry a pair of a newer style wrench made by Vise Grip. (Yes guys, you can get them at the Home Depot, in the Tool Corral next to the rest of the Vise Grips.) They have a long, compound French curve shaped beak which is designed to clamp very securely around large objects (such as the rudder packing nut). A pair of them will cost about the same as a pair of the adjustable junk wrenches, but are stronger, take up less room in the tool box, and are so versatile I can't begin to tell you hou many different jobs I use them for. I also carry a piece of 3/4" conduit to use as an extension for increased leverage. Can't beat them.
I have to agree with Steve on this one. The wrenches sold for this are in fact intended for light severity use in domestic plumbing. They are too cumbersome and light to wack open a 2" bronze nut on a boat; particularly a Hunter 33. Remember, I've been there! I carry a pair of a newer style wrench made by Vise Grip. (Yes guys, you can get them at the Home Depot, in the Tool Corral next to the rest of the Vise Grips.) They have a long, compound French curve shaped beak which is designed to clamp very securely around large objects (such as the rudder packing nut). A pair of them will cost about the same as a pair of the adjustable junk wrenches, but are stronger, take up less room in the tool box, and are so versatile I can't begin to tell you hou many different jobs I use them for. I also carry a piece of 3/4" conduit to use as an extension for increased leverage. Can't beat them.
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