Copper Antifouling/ablative coatings - how to?

Nov 19, 2015
11
Hunter 28.5 Wickford Cove, Rhode Island
I am happy to be redirected to any thread already discussing this.
Copper Antifouling/ablative coatings - how to re-coat existing Copper coating? The current appliation is about 4 years old. I expect it will need sanding and re-coating. Thx
 
May 17, 2004
5,622
Beneteau Oceanis 37 Havre de Grace
Depends on exactly what paint you have already on there. The paint companies have compatibility tables that show what needs to be done to overcoat. If overcoating an ablative with another ablative the most common guidance (with some exceptions) is a light sanding with 80 grit and then just apply the new coat right over it.
 

Joe

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Jun 1, 2004
8,185
Catalina 27 Mission Bay, San Diego
Sanding for the purpose of removing flaking paint and roughing the surface to give a better mechanical adhesion for the new paint is normal. If you think you want to remove ALL existing paint (this would be for other reasons than just refreshing the existing surface) many will opt for a chemical stripper to speed the process. If you're doing this project in a commercial yard (rather than your own backyard) you need to check on any restrictions. Most common are to have a scavenging device attached to your sanders and in some cases enclosing the vessel completely with plastic tarps may be required. You may be able to avoid this if you WET sand.......... but by all means check your contract.

Even if you're not in a commercial place, a good neighbor will contain the nasty dust the best he can. The dust can settle on your neighor's cars, plants and kids playthings... so it's good karma to be considerate.

Normally, ablative paint doesn't flake off the way hardshell paint can if it wasn't properly applied. Sometimes a good power wash will solve that problem. But here's my first piece of advice.... and it's probably too late to do it now...... but you should have the bottom cleaned just before haulout while the existing scum is wet, since it is easily removed in that state. If that's not possible, then get on it as soon as the boat comes out of the water. Using a scraper and the power wash gun you should get most of it. Again, letting it dry will increase removal time dramatically.

Once you've removed any loose paint and are satisfied that no repairs are needed (such as blisters or gel cracks) you can lightly sand the entire surface to begin the painting process that will be described on the paint can's label. My experience is to always refer to the manufacturer's instructions. Temperature and humidity are especially important. So pay attention to their instructions.
Here's my comment on sanding: do not be too agressive!!!! Stay away from disc sanders and grinders... they will chew right through gelcoat and fiberglass in an instant... Your goal is to simply rough up the surface so the next coat of paint sticks. I prefer a random orbital sander, 5 or 6 inch is easy to hold with one hand. Regarding grit .......... unless you're trying to remove something, 120 to 180 is more than enouogh. If you're trying to remove paint from an area to make a repair then you could go with heavier grit. but just be careful... (I say this from experience, trust me)

Using ablative paint is common in seasonal areas. It's also common to apply new coats right over the old ones at the beginning of each season. It's really an easy job if done regularly and shouldn't take more than a day. Here in So Cal where everyone leaves their boats in the water year round, it is much more common to use the hardshell paint so we normally go a few years between re painting.... which requires the cost of a haulout and often additional prep work.... on the other hand... most of us hire dive services to regularly clean the boat's bottom which in turn extends the time between haul outs and keeps us informed on existing conditions.

In summary, my points are 1. know the regs for your area regarding sanding and painting. 2 Try to clean the bottom right before or right at haulout to make it easier to remove scum. 3 Be careful with sanding... no disc sanding or grinding, try orbital sanding with medium grit. Or simply use a sanding block with the heavier grits (unless you're my age, heh, heh.) 4. if you think you need more than just repainting, check here or with the boatyard for advice. 5 AND MOST IMPORTANTLY.... READ THE PAINT MANUFACTURER'S INSTRUCTIONS

Just had another thought, since this sounds like your first time working with bottom paint. There is nothing delecate about bottom paint. It's nasty stuff. 90% of the time you will be simply rolling new paint over the old as part of your boat's periodic maintenance. As I said, it is nasty. Besides copper there are other goodies in it that can be harmful. Many locals are trying to restrict copper content in bottom paints... that's something you might want to research for your area. So......make sure your wear protective gear and for god's sake don't try to clean brushes or rollers. Just go to home dept an pick up a half dozen 3/4 inch chip brushes, a 4 pack of inexpensive roller covers and a sack of shop rags. Oh and a 3 foot extension for the roller handle will reduce fatigue during application. Remember, just throw everything away rather than trying tp clean any tools. If you have your boat on jack stands you might ask the yard manager to move them so you can paint under the pad. Or you can do what I've always done and leave the paint and a wide chip brush nearby,.. a six pack and some cash will make a nice tip when you ask him to paint under the pads before re launch. He will let it hang in the slings till it's dry enough to drop back in the water. He'll probably offer to do it anyway. Okay, can't think of anything else. good luck have fun.
 
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Likes: LloydB
Nov 19, 2015
11
Hunter 28.5 Wickford Cove, Rhode Island
Well, Thank you all 3 for input. I was hoping to hear back from the fellow we bought 86' Hunter 28.5 from and he did respond today with the product info I needed. He applied CopperCoat USA copper antifouling coating in 2017. I also visited the boat for the first time since it was pulled and power washed this late fall. It came out very clean and smooth. So according to CopperCoatUSA website... the coating should last about 10 years and need only touch up in locations of higher wear/abraision. I did find some areas along the fin keel to hull joint which I need to dig out, fill and recoat. As well as along the boot strip which has no protection and thus has barnacles.
Thanks again for your input. I certianly will carefully "read the can" instructions and proceed accordingly.
If anyone has experience with CopperCoatUSA products or similar we are all ears.
Russ
 
Jan 11, 2014
12,854
Sabre 362 113 Fair Haven, NY
Well, Thank you all 3 for input. I was hoping to hear back from the fellow we bought 86' Hunter 28.5 from and he did respond today with the product info I needed. He applied CopperCoat USA copper antifouling coating in 2017. I also visited the boat for the first time since it was pulled and power washed this late fall. It came out very clean and smooth. So according to CopperCoatUSA website... the coating should last about 10 years and need only touch up in locations of higher wear/abraision. I did find some areas along the fin keel to hull joint which I need to dig out, fill and recoat. As well as along the boot strip which has no protection and thus has barnacles.
Thanks again for your input. I certianly will carefully "read the can" instructions and proceed accordingly.
If anyone has experience with CopperCoatUSA products or similar we are all ears.
Russ
Before you dig into repairing copper coat, fully understand the process and how the "paint" works. It is not a typical bottom paint. Essentially the coating is powered copper suspended in epoxy. If the application process is not followed correctly, it is not effective. Look for the videos Mads did on the Sail Life you tube channel, he goes into great detail about the process. From what I've heard, when done right it is a great product, when applied poorly it is not as effective.

Good Luck!
 
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Likes: captcoho
Jan 4, 2006
7,233
Hunter 310 West Vancouver, B.C.
Saved by the bell and @dlochner . This is a whole new ball game as no one knew what the previous coat was.

Coppercoat USA is not an ablative paint and is not treated like one. From your description :

The current appliation is about 4 years old. I expect it will need sanding and re-coating.
................................ you are wasting 60% of this material's life. According to their site, you are throwing good money down the drain if you don't wait until you see the first signs of marine growth before repainting.

It came out very clean and smooth.
Research the Coppercoat site before doing anything you're going to regret.

 
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Likes: captcoho
Nov 19, 2015
11
Hunter 28.5 Wickford Cove, Rhode Island
I spent an hour or more reviewing the Coppercoat site including Do's and Don'ts. Based on everyones input above, and thanks, I will re-inspect the whole bottom. And likely one have to touch up around the some of the keel areas. I see I will not need to sand or re-apply at this point. Thx.
 
Jan 4, 2006
7,233
Hunter 310 West Vancouver, B.C.
And likely one have to touch up around the some of the keel areas.
If you're doing touch up work, looks like you'll have a large amount $$expensive$$ Coppercoat left after the work. You may have more repair work until the Coppercoat needs replacement. Don't know what the life expectancy is for this stuff, but keeping it in your refrigerator in a zip lock bag may help in keeping it. I've found that many marine paints and applications will last years beyond their best before dates if kept cold. I was using 8 year old gel coat (with perfect results) when the seller told me no more than one year. Same went for Dow Corning 795. BUT always test before pushing the border.
 
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Likes: captcoho
Nov 19, 2015
11
Hunter 28.5 Wickford Cove, Rhode Island
@Ralph Johnstone, Good input... I am going to order one kit which should be more than enough for touch up. I did see on Coppercoat's site instructions to mix a partial batch. I'll look further or call them for info on how to store remaining goods. Thx.
 
Jan 4, 2006
7,233
Hunter 310 West Vancouver, B.C.
I'll look further or call them for info on how to store remaining goods.
I can hear them now, like any good salesman : NO, NO, NO, as soon as you look at it, it's past its best before date. Throw it away immediately after opening. Better still, throw it away before opening it and buy some new stuff. Be sure to test anything you're keeping under refrigeration.

You'll hear the same short life stories around here for fuel filters, diesel fuel, motor mounts, raw water impellors, liquor and anything else considered a consumable on a boat. Actually, don't keep liquor lying around too long. Best to consume ASAP and get more :biggrin:.
 
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Likes: captcoho
Oct 29, 2012
353
Catalina 30 TRBS MkII Milwaukee
Actually, don't keep liquor lying around too long. Best to consume ASAP and get more :biggrin:.
[/QUOTE]
Absolutely! Never keep Bourbon, Rum or Tequilla from one season to the next. It's required to be consumed at the end of the season dock party right before haul-out.
 
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Likes: jssailem
Nov 19, 2015
11
Hunter 28.5 Wickford Cove, Rhode Island
Be sure to consume any left overs, no matter how little before daybreak as it is not UV protected.