I have a bad cooling water/exhaust hose leak just in front of the outlet. Before I trap myself in a flooding lazarette, is the exhaust outlet below or above the waterline?
cooling water/exhaust hose leak
- Thread starter SteveO77
- Start date
Welcome to the forum!!
I hope yours looks like the diagram below of a 1984 Hunter 27.
I hope yours looks like the diagram below of a 1984 Hunter 27.
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Welcome !!
Kinda close one there Steve. I think that the little glassed in nozzle that the exhaust hose slips over will be just a smidge above waterline with someone in the "dungeon" where the exhaust hose goes. If you can find a friend to lounge in the vee berth and read or play on a screen, that'd be good insurance.. The nozzle extends upward about three inches where the hose slips on, so ya should be ok , but close.. you should be able to check that you have a couple or four inches with no one in the cockpit and with you sitting on the helm seat, if the bottom lip of the transom is not below water level, you'd be good..
Kinda close one there Steve. I think that the little glassed in nozzle that the exhaust hose slips over will be just a smidge above waterline with someone in the "dungeon" where the exhaust hose goes. If you can find a friend to lounge in the vee berth and read or play on a screen, that'd be good insurance.. The nozzle extends upward about three inches where the hose slips on, so ya should be ok , but close.. you should be able to check that you have a couple or four inches with no one in the cockpit and with you sitting on the helm seat, if the bottom lip of the transom is not below water level, you'd be good..
Thank you very much! I think I'll duck under with my scuba gear and see if I can plug it from the outside as well as put my wife on the bow. I think the break is right at the connection--hoping its the hose split at the clamp/ With engine running it was dumping a fair bit of water in the dungeon and running out under the stove. I may also add jerry cans of water or free weights to the bow to give me all the clearance I can get for what may be several trips into the hole and to West Marine in-between. If it's that close (with my 200lbs weighing it down, I'd rather be as safe as I can make it
I don't have as much curvature as the diagram shows and the final hose run to the outlet is flat against the hull. Ithink I'll dive under---which I was hoping to avoid, and see if I can plug it from the outside before disconnecting the hose. Thanks for the response
Be safe man! Don't tell her you are putting her up there because of her weight!
Tell her she's there as a lovely figurehead.
Seriously, before you go diving or ruin your marriage, answer a couple of questions:
1. Are you thinking that the leak is from the through hull fitting/molded in fitting?
It's important to know which kind if fitting the hose is connected to.
If it's a bronze through hull fitting, and it's well above the waterline,
it can be an in water repair.
If it's a "molded in" fitting, it may be an out of the water fix.
BUT, Unless you've hit the fitting with something hard, it's probably not the fitting.
2. Are you proposing to "plug" the through hull opening so you can replace the hose?
If it's above the waterline, I get it. If it's not...
Don't do it in the water.
Just my two cents, and questions.
1. Are you thinking that the leak is from the through hull fitting/molded in fitting?
It's important to know which kind if fitting the hose is connected to.
If it's a bronze through hull fitting, and it's well above the waterline,
it can be an in water repair.
If it's a "molded in" fitting, it may be an out of the water fix.
BUT, Unless you've hit the fitting with something hard, it's probably not the fitting.
2. Are you proposing to "plug" the through hull opening so you can replace the hose?
If it's above the waterline, I get it. If it's not...
Don't do it in the water.
Just my two cents, and questions.
OH, and look around Defender.com once you verify the hose diameter for replacement hose AND new 'ABA' hose clamps (see below).
(link: Category View | Hose Clamp Kings)
You can wait a couple of days for the package.
(link: Category View | Hose Clamp Kings)
You can wait a couple of days for the package.
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At low tide this time of year the keel is almost on the bottom so with my air tank on the dock and my 50 ft hose, I can hopefully check it visually to see if it's above the waterline thru-hull. I will unweight the stern and weight the bow as much as I reasonably can, before anything else. I suspect and hope it's a hose issue. If it's an underwater thru hull (I don't think so since I get a good boop of water when running the engine) I'll try to find a pro. I was hoping somebody with a 34' would know for sure, so my next step would be clearer. Thanks for your response.
Steve, interesting note on the hose. It should leave the fiberglass fixture and go almost vertical to up under the combing then back down to the muffler, making an anti siphon loop.
EDIT: Picture isn't too good, but you can see the exhaust hose loop on top of the battery box in the picture. It comes from under the tank bulkhead, turns up then back down to the molded fiberglass exit.
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EDIT: Picture isn't too good, but you can see the exhaust hose loop on top of the battery box in the picture. It comes from under the tank bulkhead, turns up then back down to the molded fiberglass exit.
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Many thanks to all of you. With 40 gallons of water in buckets and tubs on the port bow, I have good clearance above the waterline at the exhaust/water outlet and feel comfortable going into the hole to determine the cause of the leak and make a repair. My configuration has worked well for the 19+ years I've owned the boat so hopefully, I can reattach the hose or if necessary splice or replace, and be on my way. I obviously didn't want to be creating a nice fat underwater hole in the hull with me trapped in that tight area in my attempt to repair it. Back after Hurricane Charlie (2004), I had a soccer ball size hole at the waterline, port. The boat was lodged heeled over trapped under a boatlift which kept it from taking water through the hole. I patched the hole with screening from my destroyed pool cage, and plastic roofing cement, and kept it heeled over with everything I could find that would hold water, plus all the free weights I had. I then glued a "garage sale" over the hole, and finally got the ok to bring the boat to a storage yard between hurricanes Frances, Jean, and Ivan. I quickly found the I couldn't steer it off the dock with that much weight but I did eventually make it to get the boat out of the water for good repairs
Steve, Kloudie is right that the through-hull is molded in and the hose is slipped on it almost vertical. With the boat at rest, the exhaust is about 4 inches from the water level. Unless the molded in 3 or 4'' high hose receptacle got banged seriously it should be OK. Not a bad idea however to plug up from underneat if you can. Even a packed rag (or a tennis ball) will slow the input of water if ever the stern got in. Besides the 40 gallons on the port side, instead of asking you wife to act as counterweight, you could plug up the anchor well and fill it up with water. That should raise the stern enough to provide safety and will be easy to empty by just removing the plug. Attached is another pix which shows the hose vertical. It is the one closest to the stern, the other one being from the starboard side cockpit scupper. Good luck.
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Thanks to all. With my water tub ballast on the bow I had plenty of clearance above the water line and probably would have had without the ballast. I was able to effect repairs in short order and have no leaks. Just a pleasant bloop bloop we all love to hear