I have an Oday 28 with a Universal 11 hp diesel, dual lever control. No pull switch to kill the engine - just throttle all the way off. I'd like to convert to single lever control. Can anyone advise me on this? I am thinking of adding the single lever control to the side of the cockpit by the instruments. Will I have to add a kill switch as well? Any help is greatly appreciated. Bob
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Morse CH2100P
I am considering switching from two lever to the Morse single lever control that is recommended for sailboats. The price is $136.19 at boatfix.com. I would imagine you would have to stay with kill switch since your diesel probably doesn't have any other way to stop.
I am considering switching from two lever to the Morse single lever control that is recommended for sailboats. The price is $136.19 at boatfix.com. I would imagine you would have to stay with kill switch since your diesel probably doesn't have any other way to stop.
Recommending Checking the Linkage
Last summer I was helping someone dock a Beneteau 40 with a single lever setup, probably made by Volvo, and the linkage failed in the forward position with a large and newer 60ft power boat in front. Fortunately we were able to get a line around a deck cleat and spring him back to stop him before impact and we got the boat tied off and the engine shut down. After the excitement we inspected the cables and linkages and found the cause of failure which was just inside the single lever. There was a U-shaped clamp which is stamped out of something like 12 or 10 gauge metal that failed. It held the sheath of the two cables in place, one for the throttle and the other for shifting. With the sheath able to move the Morse cable couldn't do it's job. The owner had owned the boat for a little over a year and this was the first problem of this type. However, looking at the failed part and the area around it, it was apparent this was not the first time it had failed. Since then I talked to someone else with a similar single-lever setup and they also had a similar problem. It would be interesting to know if others had this type of failure. It appears this clip or clamp is a "weak link" in the system and should be checked regularly for signs of deformation. It would be prudent to carry a spare part and at the first sign of any deformation it should be changed.
Last summer I was helping someone dock a Beneteau 40 with a single lever setup, probably made by Volvo, and the linkage failed in the forward position with a large and newer 60ft power boat in front. Fortunately we were able to get a line around a deck cleat and spring him back to stop him before impact and we got the boat tied off and the engine shut down. After the excitement we inspected the cables and linkages and found the cause of failure which was just inside the single lever. There was a U-shaped clamp which is stamped out of something like 12 or 10 gauge metal that failed. It held the sheath of the two cables in place, one for the throttle and the other for shifting. With the sheath able to move the Morse cable couldn't do it's job. The owner had owned the boat for a little over a year and this was the first problem of this type. However, looking at the failed part and the area around it, it was apparent this was not the first time it had failed. Since then I talked to someone else with a similar single-lever setup and they also had a similar problem. It would be interesting to know if others had this type of failure. It appears this clip or clamp is a "weak link" in the system and should be checked regularly for signs of deformation. It would be prudent to carry a spare part and at the first sign of any deformation it should be changed.
No Kill Switch
Bob, I have the trusty 5411 in Catalina 27, and the yard set the idel too high and I could not stop it. Eventually I did find and use the compression release lever, but I did some checking and this is NOT a good idea as a way to stop the engine. The mechanic re-set the idle, or re-arranged the cable to allow putting the throttle in the detente position to starve the engine into sujbmission. I know of no way to add a kill switch. Perhaps it is possible by changing the way the fuel pump operates. The raw water cooled 5411 is simple and tough, but quirky. If youdo find an inexpensive way to add a kill switch, please post it. Inquiring minds etc. Roger C27 5012 & Mabel Cape Cod Roger
Bob, I have the trusty 5411 in Catalina 27, and the yard set the idel too high and I could not stop it. Eventually I did find and use the compression release lever, but I did some checking and this is NOT a good idea as a way to stop the engine. The mechanic re-set the idle, or re-arranged the cable to allow putting the throttle in the detente position to starve the engine into sujbmission. I know of no way to add a kill switch. Perhaps it is possible by changing the way the fuel pump operates. The raw water cooled 5411 is simple and tough, but quirky. If youdo find an inexpensive way to add a kill switch, please post it. Inquiring minds etc. Roger C27 5012 & Mabel Cape Cod Roger
Choke it
A brain-free solution-? On our Raider 33 Antigone we had the usual Morse single-lever control. For the kill switch we only used the choke. It was a 20-ft assembly of 'Elefant-hide' (sic), the white Teflon-like tubing with a plain copper wire inside and a knob at one end. At the bare end the wire was bent round the choke lever on the side of the Yanmar and we were able to flawlessly kill the engine by shutting off the air from the cockpit. It took about three seconds of pulling on the knob. This was not a factory-recommended mod but I fail to see any hassle in it. In fact I liked it so much I installed the same thing on my old Dodge van (thus avoiding ever having to deal with the Carter carb's idiotic rendition of 'electric-assisted automatic choke' again). --actually used a Gibson guitar jack plate for a mounting ring and installed it in the cigar-lighter hole! JC 2
A brain-free solution-? On our Raider 33 Antigone we had the usual Morse single-lever control. For the kill switch we only used the choke. It was a 20-ft assembly of 'Elefant-hide' (sic), the white Teflon-like tubing with a plain copper wire inside and a knob at one end. At the bare end the wire was bent round the choke lever on the side of the Yanmar and we were able to flawlessly kill the engine by shutting off the air from the cockpit. It took about three seconds of pulling on the knob. This was not a factory-recommended mod but I fail to see any hassle in it. In fact I liked it so much I installed the same thing on my old Dodge van (thus avoiding ever having to deal with the Carter carb's idiotic rendition of 'electric-assisted automatic choke' again). --actually used a Gibson guitar jack plate for a mounting ring and installed it in the cigar-lighter hole! JC 2
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