Conversion to Pressurized Freshwater System

Jan 18, 2014
238
Hunter 260 Palm Coast, FL
I recently converted the freshwater pump system to a pressurized system and would like to share how it was done. The reason for the conversion was twofold; it seemed very uncomfortable to pump, having one hand occupied, especially when washing hands. The other reason is the pain to empty or flush the freshwater tank with the hand pumps on the sinks.

I put a platform to install the pump on close to the tank, under the v-berth. Cleaned a spot and a little to make the epoxy stick, glassed in a small piece of plywood. Picture 1, 2.

I wired 2 x 14 gauge marine cable from the fuse box to the spot, put a 4A fuse, and switch. As pump was a Jacobs Model Par-Max 1 automatic. The pump delivers 1.1 GPM, switches off by providing 35 PSI of pressure and off by 22 PSI. The pump is self priming, can lift 4 ft of suction. Thought first of a bigger pump but this little one seemed just to be perfect. Picture 3.

From the tank coming is a shut valve and a filter in line. The pump makes noise. It is recommended to put two flexible hoses between pump and the hard plastic water pipes. I used commercial ½” – ½” fitting hoses from Home Depot for easily pump replacement. Usually freshwater pumps have ½” in- and outlet terminals. The pump I used had unfortunately 3/8” hose barb terminals, that’s why I made two short hose adapters with ½” thread to fit the flexible hoses. This allows me, when I should need to replace the pump on day, to use either one with barb or ½” thread terminals. Picture 4, 5.

It was not easy to find a regular one-hand faucet and I decided to use faucets made for filtered water outlets. Picture 6.

The pump faucet left a big hole which needed to be covered. I bought a cheap kitchen cutting board and used a hole saw to cut-out the two cover plates needed to install the faucets on my two sinks. I used 3M5200 to glue the cover plates to the sinks. Picture 7, 8.

In the bathroom I used a filter faucet with a lever valve, which can be operated by the wrist while still washing both hands. I thought it would be a good idea to be frugal on the limited water; no-one can be too generous in letting it run and it cannot be forgotten to be closed. Picture 9.

All pipe connections are done by the 15 mm quick connector system, that supposedly most boats builders use.
 

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Kermit

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Jul 31, 2010
5,669
AquaCat 12.5 17342 Wateree Lake, SC
Hart,

Great work! And thanks for posting this. I'm pretty sure I'll have some questions for you at some point.
 
Aug 11, 2011
952
O'day 30 313 Georgetown MD
An accumulator tank is an important part of any pressure-controlled water system. Fitted close to the pump discharge, it acts as a pressure buffer, absorbing flow from the pump when demand is low, and smoothing the outlet pressure. By removing the need for the pump to run immediately an outlet is opened, it extends pump life and reduces battery drain. The larger the accumulator tank, the less often the pump has to start.
The larger tanks have an appreciable water storage capacity - approximately half the nominal tank volume. The larger your pressurised system, or the higher the demand for water, the larger the accumulator tank should be. For minimum wear and tear on your pump, fit the largest accumulator tank you can.
 
Jun 8, 2004
10,373
-na -NA Anywhere USA
On many small boats with a fresh water system, even the manufactures never put on an accumulator for various reasons and in this case the room it would take away on a 260; therefore, an on demand pump worked well on the 260
 
Apr 8, 2013
205
Hunter 260 Nanaimo
Great minds think alike. I used the same pump and two of the filter faucets. ( a tap would be a good idea but I just ordered the filter faucet. In your pictures your tank looks forward of the couch by a good distance. Mine is sideways against the couch with the out pipe from the tank running straight up to the shut-off valve mounted on the wall behind the seat . So I mounted the pump on a plywood panel attached their vertically. One thing I may add this year is a low point drain out. It cold over the winter so I drain and then add antifreeze . A clear system would be better if you are sure no water is left in the low spots. P.s. No accumulator on my system also. It's more of an RV / camper system and not under much demand.
As for the oversize whole left by the whale pumps. Home Depot laminate tile samples. Mine are in cork and quite stylish...
 
Dec 29, 2010
44
Catalina 30 tall rig waupoos
I don't have an accumulator or pressure tank either, sounds like lots to ask from a 12 volt pump.
 
Jun 8, 2004
10,373
-na -NA Anywhere USA
For most who would want to fiberglass that hole, First cut a 45% angle or larger from the inside to the outside deminsion. Sand the underside (easy to get to) about 1-2 inches and clean with Acetone. Take a piece of cardboard with two layers of glass impregnated with resin/harder(kick the resin a little more with hardner for it to react quicker) along with applying resin to the underside of the glass that you sanded and hold in place. You could hold that cardboard in place by putting a string thru it and holding it upward. Let dry and sand the exposed glass.

Take the next layer of glass just big enough to fill the bottom of the hole and of course apply resin/hardner. No need for the expensive resin. While wet, the use of the small RESIN ROLLer dipped in acetone will smooth out the glass getting rid of the air bubbles.
If no resin roller, tip with a throw away cheap brush dipped in acetone to smooth out the glass and let dry. What you have done is set up a base which to lay glass and lock it in place which is very solid.

Keep adding layers of glass until smooth with the top of the conter cutting each successive layer to fill the hole it sits in to avoid all that glass from hanging over the hole. Let dry. Spary a little black or gray of course masking the area off and lightly sand with wet and dry sandpaper. You will see the valleys left where the paint is. Fill in the valleys with two part epoxy and sand smooth.

Instead of Gel coat, I used Krylon to closely match that beige color on the top of the counter to the corners to hide the difference of the paint colors. No one could ever tell. You do have to mask the area off and the use of fine tape for the edges is suggested.

Not sure if you want to try this approach.
 
Oct 25, 2011
576
Island Packet IP31 Lake St. Louis, Montreal
Very nice job Regular Guy.

For similar reasons, on our previous boat we wanted to remove the need to manually pump on our previous boat. We elected to install a Jabsco Electric pump and galley faucet in the galley only as this is where the pumping was the biggest pain. Installation was quite simple, cut the hose and insert pump, install faucet in the galley, wire pump and faucet and done. Total cost was < $50. We kept the hand pump in the head as it didn't bother us there.

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51QAkoreS9L._SL1000_.jpg
 
Jan 18, 2014
238
Hunter 260 Palm Coast, FL
Thank you on the installation compliments. I have to say that getting running water on demand by just opening the faucet is a such useful improvement over the hand-pumps. The H260 has a relatively small 20 Gallon (76 Liter) freshwater tank. The use of filtration faucets seems to be perfect; they deliver a nice steady stream of water but much more frugal to regular taps.

To keep it simple, I did not put an accumulator tank. The Par-Max 1 installation manual (picture) does not mention the need of one. Thanks, twodzusfittings, for pointing out the option.
 

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Pat

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Jun 7, 2004
1,250
Oday 272LE Ninnescah Yacht Club, Wichita, Ks.
On our 272, when new there was no accumulator pump so I bought one....it's still in the box...I waited for two years to want it, and the system never seemed to pulsate, i.e. need it, so I still have it in it's original box...when I turn on the water at the faucet, I have water almost immediately...maybe 1 or 2
seconds....one other idea, O'Day used a piece of plywoond to mount the shurflow pump feet...rather than a fiberglass pad.. we bought the boat in Dec. 1986...
 
Apr 11, 2014
97
Hunter 260 Lake Lanier
Thanks for the posting Regular Guy. I was going to replumb ours in a month or so with PEX. It's seems a no brainer to just go ahead and make it a pressure system as well.
 
Jan 18, 2014
238
Hunter 260 Palm Coast, FL
jwilcoxon78,
You should not need any extra PEX pipes when doing the conversion. You are going to have actually some leftover under the sinks and where the pump is cut in.
For the case you are going to add on some extra 1/2" PEX pipe, like I did for the spray/shower port on the transom, make sure to connect with a 1/2" quick adaptor to the 15mm stock pipe system. The 15mm quick connectors will leak on 1/2" pipes since their diameter is a less, 12,7mm. Good luck,
Hart