To those of you that have continuous line furling, how do you run your furling line? I do not have it installed as yet, but can't think of a good way to do it. I have thought of running it all the way to the back of the cockpit along the stern railing, on the outside of the railing, to keep it from just falling on the floor of the cockpit. Any suggestions? This is a Catalina C25, if it matters. Dan
Continuous Line Furling
- Thread starter Dan H
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When I had a C25...
...my roller furling ran back down the port side. There was a cleat on the outside of the combing where the cabintop came down and met the cockpit. The dodger was slightly cut out around the cleat. The line was then cleated there. When the genoa was out, the line was draped over the combing and hung loose in the port, forward part of the cockpit. There was also a double-pulley on the stanchion closest to the cockpit that ran the furling line thru it. Not sure if there was another double-pulley further forward. But run it as straight as you can, with no turns. It amazing how much friction a turn can cause. You don't need to cleat it when you take the sail out because you may have a problem reefing it, after a while. It is a FURLER and NOT a REEFER. After the line becomes a bit worn and stretched, it may not hold a reef. P.S. Be sure that you install it on the reefer and pulleys BEFORE it is braided. I now have a SL on my larger boat. I converted the DL to a SL as soon as I got it.
...my roller furling ran back down the port side. There was a cleat on the outside of the combing where the cabintop came down and met the cockpit. The dodger was slightly cut out around the cleat. The line was then cleated there. When the genoa was out, the line was draped over the combing and hung loose in the port, forward part of the cockpit. There was also a double-pulley on the stanchion closest to the cockpit that ran the furling line thru it. Not sure if there was another double-pulley further forward. But run it as straight as you can, with no turns. It amazing how much friction a turn can cause. You don't need to cleat it when you take the sail out because you may have a problem reefing it, after a while. It is a FURLER and NOT a REEFER. After the line becomes a bit worn and stretched, it may not hold a reef. P.S. Be sure that you install it on the reefer and pulleys BEFORE it is braided. I now have a SL on my larger boat. I converted the DL to a SL as soon as I got it.
I didn't think they still make them
It is going to be a pain in the neck to run the rope. I don't know how you get the continues line through the pulleys. I not going to be much help but my advice is to get a single line system. The vedor may sell you one at a discount becuase you have the old one.
It is going to be a pain in the neck to run the rope. I don't know how you get the continues line through the pulleys. I not going to be much help but my advice is to get a single line system. The vedor may sell you one at a discount becuase you have the old one.
Hi Dan, we still have the original double line...
Hood system that came with our 1991 boat and I'm still happy with its performance. Maybe a single line system would work better, but... Our lines run through SS fairlead blocks mounted on the starboard toe rail at intervals. The lines run back and loop onto a cleat that I have on the top pushpit rail. Normally, I do all my furler line work from that point. There have been times when I had to horse the furler line from the cockpit, which came in handy, during breezy conditions. Terry
Hood system that came with our 1991 boat and I'm still happy with its performance. Maybe a single line system would work better, but... Our lines run through SS fairlead blocks mounted on the starboard toe rail at intervals. The lines run back and loop onto a cleat that I have on the top pushpit rail. Normally, I do all my furler line work from that point. There have been times when I had to horse the furler line from the cockpit, which came in handy, during breezy conditions. Terry
Single Line System
Although a continuous line system is of a great help, you cannot reef with it. They tend to be an 'all or nothing' type system. I had one on my Catalina 30 and I ordered a different drum from CDI, which gave me the normal system of 1 line. I think it cost me about $350, dont remember for sure. It was a simple process of swaping them out. The difference was amazing when i was able to actually reef. Note that this system was just a bit too small for a Catalina 30 but I worked with what I had. It should be just fine for a Cat25. Tony B
Although a continuous line system is of a great help, you cannot reef with it. They tend to be an 'all or nothing' type system. I had one on my Catalina 30 and I ordered a different drum from CDI, which gave me the normal system of 1 line. I think it cost me about $350, dont remember for sure. It was a simple process of swaping them out. The difference was amazing when i was able to actually reef. Note that this system was just a bit too small for a Catalina 30 but I worked with what I had. It should be just fine for a Cat25. Tony B
Dan, I had the Hood Unit too
I think you can reef it by cleating the furling line down but if you are install a new one it makes sense to install a single line system unless you trying to save cash!
I think you can reef it by cleating the furling line down but if you are install a new one it makes sense to install a single line system unless you trying to save cash!
Hood makes a replacement
to a single line furling system. Here's a post from one of our C34IA MB members: I called Hood at 603-826-5791 and they advised that a jamming of the lower unit means that the main bearing in the drive unit is beginning to wear and it will jam again. I ordered the bearing for $57.00 and will advise on the difficulty of replacement and the outcome. Not bad for 14 years of use. The number listed in the vender list for Hood was a fax number. This number is for the Pompanette Co., which owns Hood, Bomar and Gray. It is my understanding that Hood provides a replacement, and that they are doing a good job of porduct improvement.
to a single line furling system. Here's a post from one of our C34IA MB members: I called Hood at 603-826-5791 and they advised that a jamming of the lower unit means that the main bearing in the drive unit is beginning to wear and it will jam again. I ordered the bearing for $57.00 and will advise on the difficulty of replacement and the outcome. Not bad for 14 years of use. The number listed in the vender list for Hood was a fax number. This number is for the Pompanette Co., which owns Hood, Bomar and Gray. It is my understanding that Hood provides a replacement, and that they are doing a good job of porduct improvement.
You Can Reef the Continous Line
I have the continuous line furler with the line extended well back into the cockpit, so that when you want to shorten or furl the headsail a wrap and lock around the cleat on the cockpit coaming holds everything just fine. I have a 1988 Catalina 30 model. It has held quite well in 20+ winds. The furler line can be fed thru a series of blocks strategically connected to the base of the stanchions. Although I am not a big fan of the continuous roller furler, its okay for now considering the cost of replacement. Bob
I have the continuous line furler with the line extended well back into the cockpit, so that when you want to shorten or furl the headsail a wrap and lock around the cleat on the cockpit coaming holds everything just fine. I have a 1988 Catalina 30 model. It has held quite well in 20+ winds. The furler line can be fed thru a series of blocks strategically connected to the base of the stanchions. Although I am not a big fan of the continuous roller furler, its okay for now considering the cost of replacement. Bob
When I had a Hood
810 Continuous Line furler, the continuous loop ran through double fairlead blocks connected to, and inside, the toe rail. This double line ran back to a horn cleat I mounted on the cockpit coaming next to the helm, for ease of use. As others have indicated, Hood sold this unit as a furler not a reefer. HOwever You can reef with this system by securely tying off the double line to a cleat, but a lot will depend on the quality of the line itself as it will get slippery with age and the teeth on the drum may not hold it in the reefed position. When I had this system, I found it to be a bullet-proof furler, but replacing the furling line requires mastering the "Constant Diameter" splice. No fun or easy. I used a home grown workaround that sufficed. Let me know if interested.
810 Continuous Line furler, the continuous loop ran through double fairlead blocks connected to, and inside, the toe rail. This double line ran back to a horn cleat I mounted on the cockpit coaming next to the helm, for ease of use. As others have indicated, Hood sold this unit as a furler not a reefer. HOwever You can reef with this system by securely tying off the double line to a cleat, but a lot will depend on the quality of the line itself as it will get slippery with age and the teeth on the drum may not hold it in the reefed position. When I had this system, I found it to be a bullet-proof furler, but replacing the furling line requires mastering the "Constant Diameter" splice. No fun or easy. I used a home grown workaround that sufficed. Let me know if interested.
The problem....
The problem I had with reefing on my Catalina 30 when i had the continuous line was when it got really rough and the boat would see-saw through the waves, it was the bouncing and tension changes with this see-saw motion that would make the reef line slip. It never happened in protected waters , only in the Gulf of Mexico. Tony B
The problem I had with reefing on my Catalina 30 when i had the continuous line was when it got really rough and the boat would see-saw through the waves, it was the bouncing and tension changes with this see-saw motion that would make the reef line slip. It never happened in protected waters , only in the Gulf of Mexico. Tony B
How to do it
The shorter the better, since you may not need to wrap it. I bypassed the complex fid maneuver and connected with fishing line, criss crossing a tight weave. Then covered with color tape. Works great on the furling line of my H320.
The shorter the better, since you may not need to wrap it. I bypassed the complex fid maneuver and connected with fishing line, criss crossing a tight weave. Then covered with color tape. Works great on the furling line of my H320.
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