Continued Odor Saga

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May 18, 2004
24
Spirit 23 Lake City, MN
Well, after drilling out my inner liner and flushing well I now have no evidence of water trapped in the hull. We made it through all summer with no water entering the bilges either above or below the inner liner (Stuffing box water gets trapped by the engine oil spill pan and is sponged out from there). But, the smell continues. I have found that a significant amount of odor is originating from the chalked seal round the lid of the molded in holding tank and under the cushions. By using duct tape I was able to isolate most of that smell to verify that it clearly is coming from that source. So although fiberglass does not permeate it looks like either the chalking does or the seal is broken. So I will have to remove that lid and re-bed at a minimum. But now my dilemma. Because the smell from the area under the V-berth is still significant I suspect that I have a gas leak from either around the fill connector or through the holes made by the screws that hold down the lid. The fill connector is mounted so high in the tank that you cannot gain access to the top side of it. It is glassed in but I suspect that maybe it is not sealed all the way around. Because we never let the tank get even close to full I doubt if we ever submerge that connector even with the rail down so there is no evidence of liquid leaking. When the lid is off I can try to see if there is any possibility of a leak around that connector from the inside. So my question to you is, do you think that chalk will remain un-permeated for any significant amount of time (read years), and will gas make it's way through those screw holes or is the chalking supposed to isolate them from the internal cavity of the tank. Also what type of chalk is the right choice for this job. Any comment would be welcome.
 
Dec 2, 1997
9,011
- - LIttle Rock
If the fill fitting is inaccessible...

How would you replace the hoses when needed...they DO permeate. And I think you mean "caulk," not "chalk." It sounds like you've found the source of your odor..and recaulking should eliminate it. However, no sealant lasts forever...about 5 years is average. So I think you don't have much choice but to figure out how to gain access to the top of your tank, even if it means cutting a new hatch.
 
S

Steve D

What about hoses?

Brett: Are you sure that your hoses are NOT the source of your problem. I would suggest that you do a good flush job on the entire system before you put the boat on the hard. Maybe a good dose of bleach and hot water to clean out the system as well as possible. This makes changing the hoses a little more tolerable. If you have not changed the hoses you may want to do that when you recommission the tank. We have not had to redo our tank in 16 years, but that does not mean that it is not going to happen either. What year and model of boat are we dealing with here?
 
B

Bill O'Donovan

Try this...

Pour baking soda everywhere you find an opening and follow with white vineger. Then flush with boling water and watch it all go into the bilge. Freshened my boat right up. But I agree with Steve about the hoses too.
 
May 18, 2004
24
Spirit 23 Lake City, MN
More clarification

You are correct, of course, on that spelling. The spell checker did not help me on that one. The boat is a Hunter 31 The fill fitting is located at the very top of the aft facing surface of the tank. Because this tank is molded into the V-berth platform the fitting is very near the underside of the V-berth. You can barely get the hose on without hitting the underside of the V-berth. Because the base of the fitting is larger than the barb it looks like it probably touches the underside of the V-berth, but with the fiberglass wrapped around the fitting it is hard to tell if it is sealed. As far as an access port, because the tank is simply a molded recess into the V-berth platform the top is screwed on and sealed with caulk. So I know I can remove it and re-caulk but I was hoping someone would have a recommendation on what type of caulk to use to avoid permeation. Another alternative would be to just glass the lid on but this would prevent any future access for any reason. It is the same contruction as the water tank shown in the archives with the lid removed on a Hunter 31. And yes the hoses are all new. I wonder if I could create a vacuum on the tank and then use smoke to trace if there are any areas where the smoke is pulled in around the fitting.
 
Dec 2, 1997
9,011
- - LIttle Rock
How hard would it be to remove v-berth

platform? Even if it's molded (unless it's a structural member...ask Hunter), it wouldn't be a bad idea to cut it out and then epoxy/screw some moulding around the edges to support it...'cuz that would provide permanent access to the tank. As for which sealant, I'd make a rubber gasket for the top (Steve Dion can tell you what to use...and pick the right sealant from this site to use around the fittings: http://bosunsupplies.com/Sealants.cfm You might want to hang onto that link...to refer to for other projects. Btw..spell checkers can't figure out which word you really meant to use if you spell the wrong one correctly. :)
 
Jun 7, 2004
944
Birch Bay Washington
Have you considered paint?

There are some very good paints which might do the job for you. Kilz is a brand which comes to mind. I have used it and it traps smells quite effectively. I would add that some if not most fiberglass is somewhat permeable to gasses. I would suspect that before the seal. It is a lot easier and cheaper to paint it than to remove and replace a seal which may be ok to start with. Just a thought though because I am not clear from your discription how the tank is situated.
 
May 18, 2004
24
Spirit 23 Lake City, MN
Thank you all for your responses

It seems from the responses that it is still not clear to everyone how this tank is constructed. It is constructed identical to the water tank shown in the pictures in the Hunter 31 section of this site. I do not know why the fittings are glassed but I will find out. So I will pull the lid and try to remember to take some photos. That will help any other Hunter 31 owners who may be having similar issues. Looks like others have used silicon for sealing the water tank so I will probably try that. I may consider the butyl rubber gasket idea that has been suggested for the water tank. Or I may just decide to cut the whole thing out and put in a conventional plastic tank. I can't get to this until mid-winter and will probably have to wait until spring to close it back up. Again, thanks for the discussion.
 
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