Considering topside paint.

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Jun 2, 2004
5,802
Hunter 37-cutter, '79 41 23' 30"N 82 33' 20"W--------Huron, OH
It might be time to paint over the thirty-three year old gelcoat. I always figured when the time came I would just roll and tip. Now as I get older and lazier I find that I would rather be sailing than working.

Question is have there been advancements in hull painting? Is there spray equipment that works for DIY? Are there newer paints? Maybe some of you have done this recently. I am leaning toward blowing the 201K and having a pro do it.
 
Oct 1, 2011
188
Hunter 42 Passage Huron, OH
Ed, I am interested in having the deck painted... I will keep an eye on this post to see what people respond with. I am much more interested in spraying the deck rather than roll and tip, can only imagine the finish will turn out nicer that way.
 
Mar 26, 2011
3,837
Corsair F-24 MK I Deale, MD
It might be time to paint over the thirty-three year old gelcoat. I always figured when the time came I would just roll and tip. Now as I get older and lazier I find that I would rather be sailing than working.

Question is have there been advancements in hull painting? Is there spray equipment that works for DIY? Are there newer paints? Maybe some of you have done this recently. I am leaning toward blowing the 201K and having a pro do it.
a. With a mohair roller and the correct amount of thinner, there is no "tip" requirment. I've painted numerous boats with boat Perfection and Brite Sides. I dislike foam rollers. The temperature and thinner is critical, so test it on something else JUST before starting.
b. 80% of the work is surface prep and taping. The painting is fast.
c. Get the best rollers and brushes.
d. Pick a nice 80F day. Don't try this in cool spring weather. The paint won't flow or cure correctly.
e. I would try not to do the topside and deck the same day.
 
Jan 3, 2009
821
Marine Trader 34 Where Ever I am
Paints like Brightside will only last a year or two on the hull then have to be redone. With all of the prep work and time in painting it makes sense to use a paint that will give you a longer life. We've painted our sailboat Sea Trek from the waterline to the masthead with AwlGrip, our new to us trawler is in the process now and much of it is posted on our two websites. It's not that difficult and the results will last you ten years if you take care of it. We roll the paint on, seldom even having to tip, depending on humidity, etc. The results have been great and many comment how it looks like it was sprayed. Unless you have experience with a spray gun, I would not recommend it. Chuck
 
Feb 6, 1998
11,722
Canadian Sailcraft 36T Casco Bay, ME
It might be time to paint over the thirty-three year old gelcoat. I always figured when the time came I would just roll and tip. Now as I get older and lazier I find that I would rather be sailing than working.

Question is have there been advancements in hull painting? Is there spray equipment that works for DIY? Are there newer paints? Maybe some of you have done this recently. I am leaning toward blowing the 201K and having a pro do it.
Ed,

Reconditioning your gelcoat, unless gouged, crazed or has had multiple non-matching repairs will be considerably less money. It can usually be made to look new or better than new for a few hundred dollars or less and about 20-24 hours of your time or you and some friends..

If you must paint I would consider using one of the buffable acrylic urethane paints such as Awlcraft 2000 or Imron MS600.. They make future repairs easier and can be buffed where a linear polyurethane should not be buffed. Alexseal claims their LPU can be buffed but I have heard conflicting reports from professional painters as to just "how" buffable it really is and what happens when you do buff it.

With any paint work the prep is 80-90% of the job. If you can do the prep you may be able to find someone to shoot it. Prep with any of these pants is very, very critical as they are very glossy and will reveal any minute defects in prep work. Darker colors are even worse. As such some painters may not want to allow you to do the prep and then have their "name" on the paint job for reputations sake..

I would not suggest you try and "cut your teeth" on a full re-paint as your fists job. Marine paints are very expensive and are easy to mess up. Can it be done? Sure, but the learning curve is quite steep and mistakes quite costly. Personally I would not be caught dead doing all that prep and then cut costs on a single part paint, it is just not worth it.

Our now 6 year old Awlcraft 2000 paint can not be discerned from a brand new paint job even by a pro.. One of our local yard owners asked me this past fall why I did not let them paint it. When I told him it was six years old the owners jaw almost hit the ground. AwlCare and AwlWash are all that have hit this hull since the day it was painted, other than a spring wash down with Naptha before washing with AwlWash and applying the AwlCare.....
 
Jun 2, 2004
5,802
Hunter 37-cutter, '79 41 23' 30"N 82 33' 20"W--------Huron, OH
In trying to keep the post simple I left out a couple of tidbits. In 2004 I spent a boat buck to have the topsides professionally done. The results were amazing, new stripes and a shine like new. At the time he told me the gelcoat was thin and probably would not take another compounding.

The decks were done by me years ago. I rolled and tipped with Toplac and that has held up well.

The trip to Florida took its toll, especially the Erie Canal. Next time I'll have longer and better fenderboards. I know how long it takes to do good prep including getting the striping off. So Imron and Awlgrip are still the preferred pro spray options? And not for DIY.
 

RichB

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Oct 8, 2006
87
Hunter 23 Winter Park, Fl. h23
Like Ed, I too have reached the tipping point. It is time to paint.
Although I have already tested some Brightside in a couple of lockers with good smooth results, The legendary AWL grip has to be more durable than the one-part poly.

Considering the preparation time and cost, it would be false economy to skimp on the paint.
I'll check ChuckBear's website, search the history here at sailboatowners and keep a weather eye out.
 
Jun 2, 2004
5,802
Hunter 37-cutter, '79 41 23' 30"N 82 33' 20"W--------Huron, OH
Should also have mentioned that I did paint a boat. I rolled and tipped my Highlander using Brightside. Its alright but I want my big boat to be perfect. I also used to maintain a Catalina 22. With three bottoms to paint in the spring you can begin to see why I am tired.
 

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Tim R.

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May 27, 2004
3,626
Caliber 40 Long Range Cruiser Portland, Maine
Do not waste your time with Brightsides. It is a good paint but is simply not durable enough for a long lasting finish. It will show scratches and scuffs very easily if you use a dark color.

Perfection is much better and I would consider it a good choice for the DIYer.

If you get the chance to use both of these, you will agree with me.

Spend the extra money on the paint now so you will not be doing this again in 5 years.
 

RichH

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Feb 14, 2005
4,773
Tayana 37 cutter; I20/M20 SCOWS Worton Creek, MD
Enthusiastically agree with ALL posts so far.

the 'downsides' of painting is that the boat cannot be covered' (especially with shrink-wrap, etc.) ever again without a good risk of the paint 'lifting' under the cover. No topside paint can withstand such 'high humidty' conditions without 'risk'.

For me and I heartily recommend to learn how to do DIY Gelcoat repair and gelcoat spraying ... it isnt that hard, and especially if you use computer color-matched gel, etc.

If the re-sale value of your boat is important ... a painted hull, etc. will always have considerably LESS value than a properly repaired and restored gelcoat finish that is maintained to 'original' or 'show room' condition.
 
Jun 2, 2004
5,802
Hunter 37-cutter, '79 41 23' 30"N 82 33' 20"W--------Huron, OH
Did not mean to suggest I would use Brightside. Just happened to have some for the old 1968 one-design. I just finished a mast in Perfection so am well aware of the difference. And I have done gelcoat repair with good results. Like I said, just tired. Still leaning toward a professional spray job.
 
May 28, 2009
764
Hunter 376 Pensacola, FL
Here's a question for you

Let's say your boat has some history. Maybe while a previous owner had it it's been a bit beat up by a few hurricanes.
And let's say the PO patched some of the damage (or had it repaired) and then decided that the best way to even out the appearance was to apply Awlgrip on the hull and deck.
And let's say it's now ten years later, and the paint is looking pretty tired.
What's the better way to go (as in easier and more cost effective):
Sand, smooth and prep the paint job applied by the PO and then repaint
or
Strip away the old paint completely and have the boat reshot with new gelcoat and then wet sand and polish?
Is it even possible to go back to gelcoat once someone had applied paint?
 
Feb 6, 1998
11,722
Canadian Sailcraft 36T Casco Bay, ME
the 'downsides' of painting is that the boat cannot be covered' (especially with shrink-wrap, etc.) ever again without a good risk of the paint 'lifting' under the cover. No topside paint can withstand such 'high humidty' conditions without 'risk'.
Rich is correct however painted boats CAN be covered with shrink wrap. It has to be done correctly and you need a shrink wrapper who has a clue how to do it...


Ideally I would love a Canvas cover but can't get anyone, including Fairclough, who thinks they can build one like this. I won't even let canvas touch our topsides...


 

RichH

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Feb 14, 2005
4,773
Tayana 37 cutter; I20/M20 SCOWS Worton Creek, MD
THATS the way to shrinkwrap a painted boat ... the ONLY way. If the shrinkwrap 'touches' the paint the forming/condensing moisture (and NO matter how well 'vented' the shrinkwrap is) will cause the paint to lift !!!!!! Got the teeshirt ... got the shoulder bursitis from the 'rework'.
 

Tim R.

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May 27, 2004
3,626
Caliber 40 Long Range Cruiser Portland, Maine
Not that hard. I do it every year. My boat is not painted. I do it for air circulation. Not a drop moisture under the cover.
 
Apr 19, 2012
99
Hunter 18.5 Clark Hill
I know this is an old post but I have a question on what equipment I can use to spray Awlcraft 2000 on with when I paint topsides. I have a Kremlin air assisted airless and also a Binks pressure pot and gun. I use Kremlin in my cabinet/millwork shop everyday so I'm the most familiar with it.

Any help is appreciated,

Ron
 
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