I have a Catalina 320 and am trying to connect the freshwater intake of my new Raritan Sea Era head to the blue freshwater tubing below the sink. I can't seem to find a tee connector size at the usual marine stores (Westmarine, BoatUS) that fits the blue tubing. Does anyone know who makes this tubing or where I can find a tee connector? My calls to Catalina have gone unanswered.:{ Thanks for any help.
Connecting freshwater to Sea Era
- Thread starter Pete Peterson
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Just did it
Pate Just did the same thing on our H40.5. Likely a different sized plastic pipe but found virtually all sizes of fittings at the local hardware store. Used some pipe glue and it workes fine. also had to cap off the run to the water pump which used to get feed from that tank and found that part also. Have seen them at the big box stores too. Don
Pate Just did the same thing on our H40.5. Likely a different sized plastic pipe but found virtually all sizes of fittings at the local hardware store. Used some pipe glue and it workes fine. also had to cap off the run to the water pump which used to get feed from that tank and found that part also. Have seen them at the big box stores too. Don
I'm confused, Don...
If you capped off the plumbing to the water pump, what's supplying the pressurized water to your toilet? Or do you have a raw water toilet and converted one of your water tanks to a dedicated flush water tank? I think Pete is looking for fittings to connect the plumbing for a toilet that needs pressurized flush water. When I installed mine, we just teed into the cold water line going to the head sink...and then installed a plain ol' garden variety water faucet as a shut-off valve in case it ever became necessary to shut off the flush water to the toilet to work on it without also turning off the water pump.
If you capped off the plumbing to the water pump, what's supplying the pressurized water to your toilet? Or do you have a raw water toilet and converted one of your water tanks to a dedicated flush water tank? I think Pete is looking for fittings to connect the plumbing for a toilet that needs pressurized flush water. When I installed mine, we just teed into the cold water line going to the head sink...and then installed a plain ol' garden variety water faucet as a shut-off valve in case it ever became necessary to shut off the flush water to the toilet to work on it without also turning off the water pump.
Peggie
No - it's a fresh-water Sea Ear with a dedicated pump and solenoid to take water from my aft 40 gallon tank. What I did was just cut the line from the manifold to the aft tank. I didn't absolutely need to cap the end toward the house water pump as there is a manifold from which different tanks can be selected but I didn't want to leave the line open to the manifold just in case someone (read - me) opened the wrong valve. Hope that's clearer. Don
No - it's a fresh-water Sea Ear with a dedicated pump and solenoid to take water from my aft 40 gallon tank. What I did was just cut the line from the manifold to the aft tank. I didn't absolutely need to cap the end toward the house water pump as there is a manifold from which different tanks can be selected but I didn't want to leave the line open to the manifold just in case someone (read - me) opened the wrong valve. Hope that's clearer. Don
Got it...I think. 
If I do, I think you did some unnecessary work...'cuz there's no need to isolate the tank that feeds a toilet DESIGNED to use pressurized flush water...all the necessary safeguards to protect the potable water supply are built into the toilet.
If I do, I think you did some unnecessary work...'cuz there's no need to isolate the tank that feeds a toilet DESIGNED to use pressurized flush water...all the necessary safeguards to protect the potable water supply are built into the toilet.
Took me awhile too.
If I rember right (it was 2 years ago) I went with a metal T with compression fittings. Worked great. We found the fitting at our local hardwear store. Not a common item so not at home depot. Love to head, best thing we ever did on the boat.
If I rember right (it was 2 years ago) I went with a metal T with compression fittings. Worked great. We found the fitting at our local hardwear store. Not a common item so not at home depot. Love to head, best thing we ever did on the boat.
Amost unnessary
there was no simpler way to do what I wanted - it was necessary because- didn't want to run multiple tanks open through the manifold simultaneously, wanted to use only one tank for flushing purposes saving the rest for potable use, wanted to isolate from shore water system, and like to rotate using the other tanks for potable use individually so they don't get "stale".
there was no simpler way to do what I wanted - it was necessary because- didn't want to run multiple tanks open through the manifold simultaneously, wanted to use only one tank for flushing purposes saving the rest for potable use, wanted to isolate from shore water system, and like to rotate using the other tanks for potable use individually so they don't get "stale".
Fresh Water vs. Raw Water
Just submitting this for general reference: I've been plagued with quite a few calls lately from people who buy raw water flushing toilets and later discover that they'd like to convert them to flush with pressurized fresh water from their onboard pressure system. Or, they've purchased a pressurized fresh water flushing toilet and discover that they don't have enough water onboard to feed the toilet in addititon to the other onboard requirements (showering, cooking, etc.), and want to convert it back to flushing with raw, outside water. Question: How do I convert it? Answer: In most cases, you don't - at least not cheaply. If it's still brand new in the box, send it back and get the correct model. When considering a new electric toilet, give some thought to it in advance - also check the part numbers for the correct toilet that you're trying to order. Don't allow yourself to be snowballed by a dealer and wind up ordering something that isn't right for you. To convert a Raritan electric toilet (once you have it) from raw water flushing to pressurized fresh water flushing, costs nearly $250.00 in parts, about the same in labor, plus it "ain't easy!" To convert from pressurized fresh water flushing back to raw water flushing costs even more. So, if in doubt, don't order right away. Do your homework and wait until you're sure you know what you want, and get the correct model number for it in advance of ordering it. Toilets that flush with pressurized fresh water use a lot less power than raw water-flushing heads because they don't have to drive a raw water pump. They just activate the coil on a solenoid valve (approx. 1 amp.), whereas a raw water pump usually consumes in the area of 18 amps. And toilets flushing with pressurized fresh water are a lot quieter - most of the noise associated with macerating electric heads comes from the raw water pump, not from the macerator - as is commonly believed. Other advantages include no bad odor from the marina water being brought in from outside, lower sound level when flushing, less water required to flush the toilet, as you don't have to wait for the seawater pump to bring the water all the way in from the outside - it's coming right off your pressure system. Note: toilet terminology - when mentioning fresh water flushing heads, the reference is to PRESSURIZED fresh water flushing heads where the bowl rinsing water is supplied via your onboard pressure water system. Oftentimes, when a boat is in a river or lake, the head actually flushes with fresh RAW water, requiring a pump. A fair amount of confusion exists when ordering a head for fresh water use - if using RAW water of any type (fresh, brackish or salt water) you need the head with the raw water pump. A lot of people who boat on lakes (houseboaters in particular) say that they flush with fresh water, which they do, but it is raw water being brought in from outside the boat, just like a seawater flushing head - no difference; it still requires a raw water pump. If the head will be flushed from the onboard PRESSURE system, you order the fresh water-flushing head. I hope this will clear up a bit of the confusion that exists. Basically, if the water comes from outside the boat, you need the raw water pump, either integral or remotely-mounted. If the water comes from the onboard pressure system, you need the fresh water model head with the solenoid valve, vacuum breaker, and no raw water pump. Other people call and ask about converting their manually-operated toilet to flush with pressurized fresh water - NO! Manual toilets are not built to withstand pressurized water going through them and will eventually turn into a strange-looking fountain in the bathroom. The only way to connect a manual toilet to fresh water (safely) is to have a dedicated tank onboard that is not pressurized, and have the manual toilet draw its water from the bottom of the tank. Then refill the tank as necessary from your dockside hose. Converting from raw water flushing to pressurized fresh water flushing, unless it is done correctly, is leaving you open for the possibility of disease due to possible contamination of your onboard tanks via the toilet. Only get a toilet that was designed to be flushed with pressurized fresh water - don't kluge your own hookup! You could be very sorry!
Just submitting this for general reference: I've been plagued with quite a few calls lately from people who buy raw water flushing toilets and later discover that they'd like to convert them to flush with pressurized fresh water from their onboard pressure system. Or, they've purchased a pressurized fresh water flushing toilet and discover that they don't have enough water onboard to feed the toilet in addititon to the other onboard requirements (showering, cooking, etc.), and want to convert it back to flushing with raw, outside water. Question: How do I convert it? Answer: In most cases, you don't - at least not cheaply. If it's still brand new in the box, send it back and get the correct model. When considering a new electric toilet, give some thought to it in advance - also check the part numbers for the correct toilet that you're trying to order. Don't allow yourself to be snowballed by a dealer and wind up ordering something that isn't right for you. To convert a Raritan electric toilet (once you have it) from raw water flushing to pressurized fresh water flushing, costs nearly $250.00 in parts, about the same in labor, plus it "ain't easy!" To convert from pressurized fresh water flushing back to raw water flushing costs even more. So, if in doubt, don't order right away. Do your homework and wait until you're sure you know what you want, and get the correct model number for it in advance of ordering it. Toilets that flush with pressurized fresh water use a lot less power than raw water-flushing heads because they don't have to drive a raw water pump. They just activate the coil on a solenoid valve (approx. 1 amp.), whereas a raw water pump usually consumes in the area of 18 amps. And toilets flushing with pressurized fresh water are a lot quieter - most of the noise associated with macerating electric heads comes from the raw water pump, not from the macerator - as is commonly believed. Other advantages include no bad odor from the marina water being brought in from outside, lower sound level when flushing, less water required to flush the toilet, as you don't have to wait for the seawater pump to bring the water all the way in from the outside - it's coming right off your pressure system. Note: toilet terminology - when mentioning fresh water flushing heads, the reference is to PRESSURIZED fresh water flushing heads where the bowl rinsing water is supplied via your onboard pressure water system. Oftentimes, when a boat is in a river or lake, the head actually flushes with fresh RAW water, requiring a pump. A fair amount of confusion exists when ordering a head for fresh water use - if using RAW water of any type (fresh, brackish or salt water) you need the head with the raw water pump. A lot of people who boat on lakes (houseboaters in particular) say that they flush with fresh water, which they do, but it is raw water being brought in from outside the boat, just like a seawater flushing head - no difference; it still requires a raw water pump. If the head will be flushed from the onboard PRESSURE system, you order the fresh water-flushing head. I hope this will clear up a bit of the confusion that exists. Basically, if the water comes from outside the boat, you need the raw water pump, either integral or remotely-mounted. If the water comes from the onboard pressure system, you need the fresh water model head with the solenoid valve, vacuum breaker, and no raw water pump. Other people call and ask about converting their manually-operated toilet to flush with pressurized fresh water - NO! Manual toilets are not built to withstand pressurized water going through them and will eventually turn into a strange-looking fountain in the bathroom. The only way to connect a manual toilet to fresh water (safely) is to have a dedicated tank onboard that is not pressurized, and have the manual toilet draw its water from the bottom of the tank. Then refill the tank as necessary from your dockside hose. Converting from raw water flushing to pressurized fresh water flushing, unless it is done correctly, is leaving you open for the possibility of disease due to possible contamination of your onboard tanks via the toilet. Only get a toilet that was designed to be flushed with pressurized fresh water - don't kluge your own hookup! You could be very sorry!
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