Hi There, I have recently taken delivery on several Island Girl products and am confused over how to best restore my Catalina 22 sailboat. My boat is 30 years old and has the oxidation to prove it. I have purchased the following products: 16 oz Pink, 16 oz sea glow, 12 oz simply brilliant, 12 oz non skid sealant, 12 oz. Mirror Hard superglaze, 12 oz. Silken seal, 4 oz clear horizons. I also received a blue towel, foam brush, and a small piece of scotchbrite synthetic steel wool. I want to do a perfect job of restoration. My boat has vast areas of molded in non skid decking for horizontal surfaces with small amount of smooth horizontal surfaces. All of the vertical surfaces on the cabin and cockpit are smooth of course. I believe that the hull has a coat of white paint on it. I have recently restored the teak with 5 coats of varnish and it is easily removed. Now here is my general question: What should be the timing of my procedures? Do I do the non skid first or vertical surfaces. Should I clean everything with Pink or the other cleaner. Do I use two different cleaners and then the top coats? Will one cleaner or topcoat screw up the adjacent finish. I am really confused. HELP! My brain is about to explode! In addition to wanting to do a great job myself, Several of the members of my sailing club are anxiously awaiting the results of my renovation and I certainly want to be able to advise them after I get done. Thank you very much in advance. Frank Gloss Wind Magic #10446 fgloss@knology.net
- Status
- Not open for further replies.
J
Jim WIllis
All very simple really!
You basically have two kits in one: 1. The non-skid sealant kit Just follow the instructions on the back of the non-skid sealant bottle. It is layed out "step by step" 2. The gelcoat and sof plastics kit. Unless the boat is really filthy, you don't need to preclean. If you do you can use a capful of IG Pink in a bucket of water (this capful is equivalent to a bottle of boat soap!) For the Smooth gelcoat, follow the step by step instructions that go with the SIMPLY BRILLIANT Superwax. Since your gelcoat is old and porous, an undercoat of freshly applied SIlkenseal will make the Superwax go a very long way and will make it set up faster. The products are very versatile with some overlap in purpose (inflatable boats, fenders, lifelines vents, cushions etc etc and can be used for lots of purposes. IG pink is the most versatile and can be used with water dilution for general clean up, as a bilge cleaner etc. However, I would reserve it mainly for non-skid decks. As to whether you should do the deck first or last, it is your choice. I personally think that it makes more sense to clean and seal the deck first, and you can use any excess diluted pink for hull pre-cleaning. There is also a very detailed online instruction book on our website, and also on this site onthe Gelcoat ad Plastics forum. Just click on the use and follow the step by step instruction. If you want to print it, I would recommend transferring to a work processor first so that you only print out the bits you need. If you need further guidance, you can call most anytime on 808 283 8569 (our tech line). If no reply, try 808 375 0116. You can use our 800 number for quick calls, but I cannot tie up this order line. THanks for enthusiasm and concern. I am working on making a simple flow chart ( acustomer suggestion) and (best of all) a video for posting on the web. and/or providing with the kits. Use of these products is very simple if you are shown, but sort of difficult to describe just in words (or is it me!) Kind Regards Jim Willis
You basically have two kits in one: 1. The non-skid sealant kit Just follow the instructions on the back of the non-skid sealant bottle. It is layed out "step by step" 2. The gelcoat and sof plastics kit. Unless the boat is really filthy, you don't need to preclean. If you do you can use a capful of IG Pink in a bucket of water (this capful is equivalent to a bottle of boat soap!) For the Smooth gelcoat, follow the step by step instructions that go with the SIMPLY BRILLIANT Superwax. Since your gelcoat is old and porous, an undercoat of freshly applied SIlkenseal will make the Superwax go a very long way and will make it set up faster. The products are very versatile with some overlap in purpose (inflatable boats, fenders, lifelines vents, cushions etc etc and can be used for lots of purposes. IG pink is the most versatile and can be used with water dilution for general clean up, as a bilge cleaner etc. However, I would reserve it mainly for non-skid decks. As to whether you should do the deck first or last, it is your choice. I personally think that it makes more sense to clean and seal the deck first, and you can use any excess diluted pink for hull pre-cleaning. There is also a very detailed online instruction book on our website, and also on this site onthe Gelcoat ad Plastics forum. Just click on the use and follow the step by step instruction. If you want to print it, I would recommend transferring to a work processor first so that you only print out the bits you need. If you need further guidance, you can call most anytime on 808 283 8569 (our tech line). If no reply, try 808 375 0116. You can use our 800 number for quick calls, but I cannot tie up this order line. THanks for enthusiasm and concern. I am working on making a simple flow chart ( acustomer suggestion) and (best of all) a video for posting on the web. and/or providing with the kits. Use of these products is very simple if you are shown, but sort of difficult to describe just in words (or is it me!) Kind Regards Jim Willis
D
Dennis Thomas
In the middle of my project
My boat is a 36’ Catalina. It’s white with beige non-skid. I’ve been working on restoring the finish a little bit at a time. First, the non-skid stuff takes a while to set. The directions say to stay off for several hours. Because of this, I did other things and left this to just before I left the boat on Sunday afternoon. This stuff is not a cleaner, it just coats and seals, so be sure the deck is as clean as possible before you start. Other than that, the chemicals are compatible. Nothing will explode or melt if one touches the other. On the smooth white surfaces, you will start with the Sea Glow (blue). It is a cleaner and it will lift most stains. However, I would get rid of any major stains and dirt using pink, etc. before starting with the Sea Glow. My boat is an 83 model and I thought it had been taken care of. Still, it is really soaking up the Sea Glow. I think it will take at least 3 good coats for it to condition and fill the porosity. Use the synthetic steel wool between each coat. It really feels smooth and silky (but dry) when you finally get it soaked in. You will notice the color change. It really brightens the white. Next, you seal in the conditioning with the Silken Seal. This stuff goes a long way. I conditioned with Sea Glow one weekend, and then couldn’t be back to wax for a while so I sprayed on the Silken Seal to preserve what I had done till I could finish the job with the wax. I just talked to Jim and he said that the wax works best if it is applied right after the Silken Seal. One of his customers even used a paper towel soaked in Silken Seal to apply the wax. Finally, you apply the Mirror Hard Superglaze. I lightly buffed the surface with the blue micro fiber towel first then spread on a quick coat of Silken Seal followed by the Superglaze. I find that I have needed a second coat to fill a few gaps that either soaked in or that I missed. The first area that I have finished completely is the transom. For the first time, I can see the reflection of my swim ladder in the gel coat! This was applied over the vinyl lettering of my boats name. I was a little concerned that it might loosen the lettering but there were no problems. I haven’t mentioned the Simply Brilliant because I haven’t used it. I doesn’t have the whitener and shouldn’t be used under the non-skid sealant. Hope this helps, but if you have any question just call Jim. He is the most helpful vendor I have ever worked with. Dennis Thomas S/V Anodyne
My boat is a 36’ Catalina. It’s white with beige non-skid. I’ve been working on restoring the finish a little bit at a time. First, the non-skid stuff takes a while to set. The directions say to stay off for several hours. Because of this, I did other things and left this to just before I left the boat on Sunday afternoon. This stuff is not a cleaner, it just coats and seals, so be sure the deck is as clean as possible before you start. Other than that, the chemicals are compatible. Nothing will explode or melt if one touches the other. On the smooth white surfaces, you will start with the Sea Glow (blue). It is a cleaner and it will lift most stains. However, I would get rid of any major stains and dirt using pink, etc. before starting with the Sea Glow. My boat is an 83 model and I thought it had been taken care of. Still, it is really soaking up the Sea Glow. I think it will take at least 3 good coats for it to condition and fill the porosity. Use the synthetic steel wool between each coat. It really feels smooth and silky (but dry) when you finally get it soaked in. You will notice the color change. It really brightens the white. Next, you seal in the conditioning with the Silken Seal. This stuff goes a long way. I conditioned with Sea Glow one weekend, and then couldn’t be back to wax for a while so I sprayed on the Silken Seal to preserve what I had done till I could finish the job with the wax. I just talked to Jim and he said that the wax works best if it is applied right after the Silken Seal. One of his customers even used a paper towel soaked in Silken Seal to apply the wax. Finally, you apply the Mirror Hard Superglaze. I lightly buffed the surface with the blue micro fiber towel first then spread on a quick coat of Silken Seal followed by the Superglaze. I find that I have needed a second coat to fill a few gaps that either soaked in or that I missed. The first area that I have finished completely is the transom. For the first time, I can see the reflection of my swim ladder in the gel coat! This was applied over the vinyl lettering of my boats name. I was a little concerned that it might loosen the lettering but there were no problems. I haven’t mentioned the Simply Brilliant because I haven’t used it. I doesn’t have the whitener and shouldn’t be used under the non-skid sealant. Hope this helps, but if you have any question just call Jim. He is the most helpful vendor I have ever worked with. Dennis Thomas S/V Anodyne
J
Jim WIllis
Suggestions for increased clarity welcome
OK I intend to make a video and have it on disk to go with kits- but this can't be until I have some time (the slow season). In the meantime, one customer suggested that a simple "flow chart" would be good. One customer/dealer in the USVI sent me the instructions for making flow charts in MS Word, but are there easier "little programs"- how about your science and/or organizational chart types out there. Lastly, I read with great interest the posting by Mr Thomas. His gelcoat was very porous and really did drink up the Sea Glow. Nice thing is that you never really have to do this again as the conditioner lasts for years. You just have to seal the surface and make it shiny. He used the MH Superglaze, I probably would have first used the SUperwax (similar but has wax content and so more "body" for use on porous gelcoat.). However, if it works......! Finally and this is sort a link to the black streak comments, MH Superglaze has no wax content (only resin) but can be directlyapplied to a clean waxed surface. It is designed to be resistant to staining and especially suitable for new boats. Currently I have 3 very good customers doing "aging and staining" tests on this. We wanted about 6 months use before describing. Thanks Jim W By the way - one customer wrote to me saying that my instructions are "inscrutible". Nothing like hearing that your baby is ugly to get one motivated!
OK I intend to make a video and have it on disk to go with kits- but this can't be until I have some time (the slow season). In the meantime, one customer suggested that a simple "flow chart" would be good. One customer/dealer in the USVI sent me the instructions for making flow charts in MS Word, but are there easier "little programs"- how about your science and/or organizational chart types out there. Lastly, I read with great interest the posting by Mr Thomas. His gelcoat was very porous and really did drink up the Sea Glow. Nice thing is that you never really have to do this again as the conditioner lasts for years. You just have to seal the surface and make it shiny. He used the MH Superglaze, I probably would have first used the SUperwax (similar but has wax content and so more "body" for use on porous gelcoat.). However, if it works......! Finally and this is sort a link to the black streak comments, MH Superglaze has no wax content (only resin) but can be directlyapplied to a clean waxed surface. It is designed to be resistant to staining and especially suitable for new boats. Currently I have 3 very good customers doing "aging and staining" tests on this. We wanted about 6 months use before describing. Thanks Jim W By the way - one customer wrote to me saying that my instructions are "inscrutible". Nothing like hearing that your baby is ugly to get one motivated!
- Status
- Not open for further replies.