We have an a/b cold machine onboard and it developed a problem all of a sudden. The compressor and fan will kick on and run normally for approximatly 30 to 45 seconds and shut off. If I leave it turned on run time continues to get shorter and shorter until the compressor and fan are being controlled by someone turning a switch on and off as fast as they can. I have checked power and ground and found them good. We also had a poor cooling problem with it last year and I replaced the t-stat and control module and has worked fine until now.
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out of my league!
Jarod: This is out of my league. But, I thought that there was a post regarding freon level/pressure. Contact a refrigeration person to have this checked. It is really not a job for an ameture anyway. Depending on the type of freon you are using, you really do not want to waste it.
Jarod: This is out of my league. But, I thought that there was a post regarding freon level/pressure. Contact a refrigeration person to have this checked. It is really not a job for an ameture anyway. Depending on the type of freon you are using, you really do not want to waste it.
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Jarod Rader
Thanks for your quick response!
Hey Steve: I'm not sure I could have lost refrigerant pressure all of sudden like that unless I had a major leak, in which case there would most likely be some obvious sign, I'm also not sure what kind of refrigerant I'm running because it is a fairly old unit. I have access the R 134A gauges and refrigerant through work but I'm not sure if any retrofitting is involved to convert say R 12 to 134 A. Maybe I should just buy a new one!
Hey Steve: I'm not sure I could have lost refrigerant pressure all of sudden like that unless I had a major leak, in which case there would most likely be some obvious sign, I'm also not sure what kind of refrigerant I'm running because it is a fairly old unit. I have access the R 134A gauges and refrigerant through work but I'm not sure if any retrofitting is involved to convert say R 12 to 134 A. Maybe I should just buy a new one!
Something happened!
Jarod: Obviously something happened. The price of R12 is by the ounce. I cannot remember what the price was but it is really expensive. If you go to the new types they are cheaper but they also do not work as well. I would have someone check it out and give you a quote on the repair. You may be correct that a new unit is the way to go. Good luck. I guess you don't need to worry about getting it fixed to soon up in your part of the world.
Jarod: Obviously something happened. The price of R12 is by the ounce. I cannot remember what the price was but it is really expensive. If you go to the new types they are cheaper but they also do not work as well. I would have someone check it out and give you a quote on the repair. You may be correct that a new unit is the way to go. Good luck. I guess you don't need to worry about getting it fixed to soon up in your part of the world.
J
John K Kudera
Low Voltage
I had the same symtoms in spring, I found that the battery charger was turned off accidentaly and the unit could not start because of reduced power, check the ground too! Good luck.
I had the same symtoms in spring, I found that the battery charger was turned off accidentaly and the unit could not start because of reduced power, check the ground too! Good luck.
J
Jeff Bacon
Ditto Johns response...
My A/B unit drove me crazy with similar symptons. Found my charger wasn't charging, and batteries were low, but FAR from exhausted. See if your unit will run normally with the engine running and the alternator kicking in Jeff
My A/B unit drove me crazy with similar symptons. Found my charger wasn't charging, and batteries were low, but FAR from exhausted. See if your unit will run normally with the engine running and the alternator kicking in Jeff
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Gary Buttrey
one possible cause
It's important to know how old your unit is. The early models used a brush style fan motor, which when new drew 1/2 amp. As they age, they can draw as much as 1 1/2 amps. The original control module (102N3101)did not power the fan as newer modules do. So, if you have the brush style fan motor (metal motor housing with aluminum blades) being powered by a module made after 1982, the high amp draw may be preventing the module from starting the compressor. The newer modules can only support an external draw of 1 amp. If you do have a brush motor fan, disconnect one of the fan leads. If the compressor starts, replace the fan (p/n F1809). Let me know if you have the newer brushless (plastic) fan. If so, the fan is not the problem and we need to take another course. The problem is electrical. Do not attempt to charge your system with 134A. Gary
It's important to know how old your unit is. The early models used a brush style fan motor, which when new drew 1/2 amp. As they age, they can draw as much as 1 1/2 amps. The original control module (102N3101)did not power the fan as newer modules do. So, if you have the brush style fan motor (metal motor housing with aluminum blades) being powered by a module made after 1982, the high amp draw may be preventing the module from starting the compressor. The newer modules can only support an external draw of 1 amp. If you do have a brush motor fan, disconnect one of the fan leads. If the compressor starts, replace the fan (p/n F1809). Let me know if you have the newer brushless (plastic) fan. If so, the fan is not the problem and we need to take another course. The problem is electrical. Do not attempt to charge your system with 134A. Gary
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Jarod Rader
Thanks Gary
Gary: Thanks for the good info, I don't have my model # handy but I'm fairly sure that I am running the old style fan. I will take a look at it tonight and attempt to disconnect it and try running it. My new control module was different than my old, as far as the company I bought it from said that it was an updated style that should still work. By the way, where can I order that fan? Thanks again, Jarod
Gary: Thanks for the good info, I don't have my model # handy but I'm fairly sure that I am running the old style fan. I will take a look at it tonight and attempt to disconnect it and try running it. My new control module was different than my old, as far as the company I bought it from said that it was an updated style that should still work. By the way, where can I order that fan? Thanks again, Jarod
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Mike DiMario
Check the capacitor first.
Jarod, Classic symptoms of a bad capacitor. Refridge units utilize start and/or run capacitors. Check to see if your unit has one or both. It is a $10 cure to a very likelihood. You can check a capacitor with a good continuity meter. Remove it, discharge it by shorting it with the blade of a screwdriver. A good capacitor will quickly raise your meter and then discharge slowly. A bad one will have no reaction. Good Luck Mike D
Jarod, Classic symptoms of a bad capacitor. Refridge units utilize start and/or run capacitors. Check to see if your unit has one or both. It is a $10 cure to a very likelihood. You can check a capacitor with a good continuity meter. Remove it, discharge it by shorting it with the blade of a screwdriver. A good capacitor will quickly raise your meter and then discharge slowly. A bad one will have no reaction. Good Luck Mike D
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Joe Englissh
Lack of freon.
I work in the A/C field. Did you check your water pump. It is possible that you have a leak in your freon system. Is your filter block. Is tis a 110 or 220 volt system. If 220 volt you might have lost one leg of your power.(check for loose wires)
I work in the A/C field. Did you check your water pump. It is possible that you have a leak in your freon system. Is your filter block. Is tis a 110 or 220 volt system. If 220 volt you might have lost one leg of your power.(check for loose wires)
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mick
restriction
your problem sounds like a restriction at the meter, possibly a dirty screen. that would explain the 45 second run time that gets shorter with each run.hook up your gauges and watch for extreme high pressure readings that would trigger your high pressure cutout switch and might cause the compressor to chatter on and off
your problem sounds like a restriction at the meter, possibly a dirty screen. that would explain the 45 second run time that gets shorter with each run.hook up your gauges and watch for extreme high pressure readings that would trigger your high pressure cutout switch and might cause the compressor to chatter on and off
G
Gary Buttrey
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