Compression Post replacement on an H31

[oceansail0]

I am very interested in the photo post of the Compresion Post Replacement that was done on an h31. The author did not put in any dimentions as to the lenght or how high the exit hole on the starboard side is for the mast wires. Also I am interested in how the post is secured at the top and bottom? I just purchased a 1984 h31 that is in need of replacement and want to get all the details before I start the work.

 

[Don s/v Tellico]

Do it with steel/ss

There have been lots of posts, I know I've written several times about how my father and I replaced ours on my former H31. WE used a galvanized pole, but others have done with ss and wood. Really depends on how extensive the damage is. Also, I wouldn't be sure the specs would be the same from boat to boat. It's basically a custom job, but not overwhelming. We used 2 2x4's and a small hydraulic jack to support the cross beam (I didn't unstep the mast), then started taking it apart. Measure few times and do the deal.Maybe someone here will post pics. There were some good ones at one time on an H34 I think where they replaced the cross beam. That might give you some idea.

 

[Patrick Lombard]

Here's what I did...

H 31 Photo Forum

 

[oceansail0]

This photo link is great. I just do not see the $3000 to $4000 dollars that some of the other links are quoting as the cost. I would expect to spend some elbow grease and less than $500. Am I missing something?Also I still have not heard how the compression post is secured at the top and bottom. Is it appoxy or are there pins?Any help?

 

[Gil C. - the Wanderin' One]

Did that job 9 or 10 years ago

I did mine not because of a problem with the post or sagging, but because I fractured the bulkhead between the head and main salon. I did not have any rot in the post like in the pictures. Since I was replacing the bulkhead I decided to eliminate the wire connections thru the cabin top and put them inside the mast to prevent rotting the cabin top. Those type fittings seem to always leak. I suggest you DO NOT CUT the brace on top of the post as was shown in the pics as that will weaken the brace. I would do the job this way; 1. unstep mast. 2. remove post by removing screws that hold it in. You will find these under the little teek plugs along the door jam to the head. 3. Remove the post, being careful to not destroy any wiring inside the channel. Jack the cabin brace as shown in the pics up about 1/4" 4. Re-wire the mast wires to eliminate those %%$$## plugs through the cabin top. You will need to change the plugs on each wire to match. 5. Rebuild or Repair the post as required. NOW HERE'S THE TRICKY PART. When I did mine I put a piece of teek about 2"X4"X16" between the post and the cabin top brace. You must cut the post off about 2" (TAKE VERY CAREFUL MEASUREMENTS) to leave room for the teek block. You will have to plane the top of the block to match the curve of the cabin brace. The new teek block should prevent any sag in the future. 6. Prepare the wiring inside the boat. make it long enough to go thru the top and into the mast with some to spare. 7. Test set the post and block for fit. 8. After correct fit, remove and drill a hole thru the block large enough to run the wires to the mast. 9. Set the post and block in place. Use a small amount of epoxy on top of the block to cement it to the brace. 10. Run all the wires up to the top of the cabin thru the mast step. You should have a short plastic pipe running thru the mast step for the wiring. 11. Replace the cover on the post that is the door jamb to the head and all related screws. 12. On top of the cabin at the mast step be sure all wires are long enough. Get a can of "Great Stuff" spray foam (at Home Depot) and spray enough into the mast step surrounding the wiring. It should expand to provide a watertite seal and prevent rain water that gets into the mast from coming in and rotting the post, etc. So that's basically what I did on my '86H31. Good Luck.