I'm hunting down the last possible place I can think of that my 260 is leaking water into the bilge under the cabin floor. I've fixed the leak in the ballest tank valve, and my other thru hulls and the stern seam don't leak so I figure it's got to be the bottom of the compression post (see attached picture) where the keel uphaul line goes through the ballast tank and into the keel trunk (page 51B in my manual). Questions: 1, should the area around the tower, that is the between the top of the ballast tank and the floor be sealed? This would prevent water flowing out under the floor. It looks like it should have been sealed, but there are gaps in the sealing material. There were also several extra loose screws laying there and bits and pieces of other things. Looks to have been a Friday afternoon job. 2. Should the very narrow gap between the base of the compression post and the post receiver plate be sealed. The diagram in my manual looks like water coulp pump up through the hole where the line exits the post, into the trunk, and flow out this narrow space. The diagram indicates the water line is below this exit hole, but when fully loaded, which is how I usually sail, I can accept that the water line could be at or above this through hole. This could also be very likely when sailing in waves where the pressure inside the keel trunk would vary causing a pumping action. From the looks inside the keel tower on the floor (see picture) I would expect this was not finished well and is most likely where I am still taking on water. I'm open to any other ideas. 3. Are there any pictures of the inside bottom of the 260 hull, inside the ballast tank, before the tank top is added, here in the archives? I have found some pictures of the tank top being added, but can not see what the top of the keel trunk looks like at this location. Thanks for any advise and information you might provide Brigg, on Wand'rin Star northstarsailing@comcast.net Vancouver, WA
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Gidday Brigg
Sorry to state the bleeding obviouse but why not leave the cover off and take her for a sail fully loaded. While someone else steers get down there and check it out to see if it leaks. I like everyone else will be very interested in the result. Regards
Sorry to state the bleeding obviouse but why not leave the cover off and take her for a sail fully loaded. While someone else steers get down there and check it out to see if it leaks. I like everyone else will be very interested in the result. Regards
Let me respond
Often I see things that folks go to far. YOu did not state what year your boat is. If you are going to pull the cover plate at the comrpression post, then I can tell you what to look for. First, with no rain, do you still get water in the boat without it being under way. If the answer is yes, then it is a topside leak. The early 260 sailboats had small #10 threaded screw holes at the base of the compression post. Hunter does not use that any more. That is why I asked the year of your boat. There were two one in front and the rear which was a pain to get to. If you have these, put the screws in with caulk, and you are done. The next area to look at is the bolt head that holds the centerboard in place. It may have loosened up and you will need to tighten it but if it is tight leave alone. Put some caulk around the bolt head. The only other thing around the compression post is the plate that the compression sits on which has 5200 sealant between the bottom of the plate and the fiberglass. Go out under motor at high speed and take a look at that plate. If no water is coming thru, then you are ok. There is another area to look at. The big wing nut that opens the water tank valve. Under the washer is a gasket material but that is thin. If it is worn out water may come thru that. You advised no leak from the transom area so I will not discuss that.
Often I see things that folks go to far. YOu did not state what year your boat is. If you are going to pull the cover plate at the comrpression post, then I can tell you what to look for. First, with no rain, do you still get water in the boat without it being under way. If the answer is yes, then it is a topside leak. The early 260 sailboats had small #10 threaded screw holes at the base of the compression post. Hunter does not use that any more. That is why I asked the year of your boat. There were two one in front and the rear which was a pain to get to. If you have these, put the screws in with caulk, and you are done. The next area to look at is the bolt head that holds the centerboard in place. It may have loosened up and you will need to tighten it but if it is tight leave alone. Put some caulk around the bolt head. The only other thing around the compression post is the plate that the compression sits on which has 5200 sealant between the bottom of the plate and the fiberglass. Go out under motor at high speed and take a look at that plate. If no water is coming thru, then you are ok. There is another area to look at. The big wing nut that opens the water tank valve. Under the washer is a gasket material but that is thin. If it is worn out water may come thru that. You advised no leak from the transom area so I will not discuss that.
I had that leak too ('00 260),
I too, tightened the plug in the ballast tank vent hole which was leaking a little and that helped a little. I then noticed that when we got a bunch of people on board, and I'm talking like 10 people partying in the cabin (cold weather), in the morning I would have a couple of inches of water in the settees on both sides. Further investigation revealed that there was moisture, read 'it was wet' around the compression post plate. What I did was to use some of that two part epoxy putty that will work under water (you can get it at an automotive store like Schucks etc.). Prepare it according to the directions and then just push/mold it into the junction of the compression post plate and the fiberglass trunk thing. Check the next day for moisture and do it again if necessary, I just used a paper towel or your hand. That solved my problem with that leak which was nice, no more water in the settees! I also thought about the base of the compression post itself and the reciever plate which looked suspicious but didn't put any putty there and it doesn't seem to be a problem. Hope that helps. -Tom
I too, tightened the plug in the ballast tank vent hole which was leaking a little and that helped a little. I then noticed that when we got a bunch of people on board, and I'm talking like 10 people partying in the cabin (cold weather), in the morning I would have a couple of inches of water in the settees on both sides. Further investigation revealed that there was moisture, read 'it was wet' around the compression post plate. What I did was to use some of that two part epoxy putty that will work under water (you can get it at an automotive store like Schucks etc.). Prepare it according to the directions and then just push/mold it into the junction of the compression post plate and the fiberglass trunk thing. Check the next day for moisture and do it again if necessary, I just used a paper towel or your hand. That solved my problem with that leak which was nice, no more water in the settees! I also thought about the base of the compression post itself and the reciever plate which looked suspicious but didn't put any putty there and it doesn't seem to be a problem. Hope that helps. -Tom
Tom
By applying two part epoxy, you may have fixed the problem, but heaven forbid should you have to ever remove the plate. I hope that you did not put any around the bolt and then you will be in trouble. Folks, use 5200 sealant in that area. I should know as I have sold more than anyone and for those who know me, the 260 is my child. Crazy has spoken
By applying two part epoxy, you may have fixed the problem, but heaven forbid should you have to ever remove the plate. I hope that you did not put any around the bolt and then you will be in trouble. Folks, use 5200 sealant in that area. I should know as I have sold more than anyone and for those who know me, the 260 is my child. Crazy has spoken
It's a leak.
Well it's now confirmed. Water is leaking up from the keel trunk through the access hole for the keel retract line and around the compression post where it sits in the base plate. (see picture) That's water glistening in the picture. The area inside the floor tower is not sealed from the bilge so it runs into the bilge. This was with the boat completely empty except for Ralph and I. Under a weeks worth of groceries and water it would probably be a gusher. Now to seal the small gap between the compression post and base plate and the area around the top of the balast tank-keel trunk tower. I am thinking of some gasket material stuffed into the post-base plate gap and 5200 around the inside of the tank-keel tower. Suggestions are welcome. Brigg
Well it's now confirmed. Water is leaking up from the keel trunk through the access hole for the keel retract line and around the compression post where it sits in the base plate. (see picture) That's water glistening in the picture. The area inside the floor tower is not sealed from the bilge so it runs into the bilge. This was with the boat completely empty except for Ralph and I. Under a weeks worth of groceries and water it would probably be a gusher. Now to seal the small gap between the compression post and base plate and the area around the top of the balast tank-keel trunk tower. I am thinking of some gasket material stuffed into the post-base plate gap and 5200 around the inside of the tank-keel tower. Suggestions are welcome. Brigg
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Please follow my advice on this one because I am the most knowledgable here. It is simple. First, take the boat out of the water. Drain the tank. Wipe up all water and use alcohol to dry up any remaining moisture. Then take 5200 and force it down between the pipe and the base it is inserted to. You will have to work it with your finger like putting grease into a bearing. Let it dry for several days. Do this at the base plate between the fiberglass and stainless steel plate too if water is coming thru there. Problem solved. I have done this alot and in fact instructed Hunter on this issue a long time back. Keep me posted.
Please follow my advice on this one because I am the most knowledgable here. It is simple. First, take the boat out of the water. Drain the tank. Wipe up all water and use alcohol to dry up any remaining moisture. Then take 5200 and force it down between the pipe and the base it is inserted to. You will have to work it with your finger like putting grease into a bearing. Let it dry for several days. Do this at the base plate between the fiberglass and stainless steel plate too if water is coming thru there. Problem solved. I have done this alot and in fact instructed Hunter on this issue a long time back. Keep me posted.
Dave....
I did not put any epoxy on the bolt, it wasn't leaking. I did, however add some more 5200 to it. I put the epoxy just around the edge of the plate. The reason I used the epoxy is that it would work even UNDER WATER! The area was wet, and my trailer was 100 mi. away, kindof a pain to pull the boat out and let it dry etc. I don't think the 5200 will work in a wet environment will it? How about the fast cure? -Tom
I did not put any epoxy on the bolt, it wasn't leaking. I did, however add some more 5200 to it. I put the epoxy just around the edge of the plate. The reason I used the epoxy is that it would work even UNDER WATER! The area was wet, and my trailer was 100 mi. away, kindof a pain to pull the boat out and let it dry etc. I don't think the 5200 will work in a wet environment will it? How about the fast cure? -Tom
Tom
Bite the bullet and pull the boat out and use 5200. I know this porblem better than most folks in the US AS I have dealt with it many more times than most. Yes you do need to pull your trailer. Heck, the repairs can be made in an hour or two. As for the epoxy, it will not stick too well to stainless steel. Tried that in my younger crazy days and it did not work with a toot.
Bite the bullet and pull the boat out and use 5200. I know this porblem better than most folks in the US AS I have dealt with it many more times than most. Yes you do need to pull your trailer. Heck, the repairs can be made in an hour or two. As for the epoxy, it will not stick too well to stainless steel. Tried that in my younger crazy days and it did not work with a toot.
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