Compression Post/Keel

[leebouy]

New to sailing. Just bought a 1982, 25 Macgregor with swing keel. Been doing a lot of odd and end things, obvious simple things, like replacing tow chain , rusty iron bolts and screws with stainless steel, light bulbs, ETC. But as I was sitting contemplating the next project thinking about ice-out on the Big Lake, that’s what we call Lake Sakakawea; anyway I will be removing the 625 pound keel to check the pivot bolt and cable and clean up the keel, add some paint. But I noticed the bullhead bolt on the top of the keel trunk (forward most top bolt) after removing plastic covers looks like it was lowered about ½ inch or so, Why??? And the locking in the down position bolt has no bolt, just puttied shut. Also, looks like the compression post may have been shorten as well. It’s the 2 by 4 that sits on top the keel trunk and supports the ceiling or deck under the mast. I need the exact length of the compression post. I would like to replace it with a new one. Is there a preferred type of wood to use for the compression post. Any ideas? Thanks.

 

[Greg]

Mods

As to the moving of the bolt, some have moved the forward bolt so that the keel doesn't come down as far. This removed the weather helm. It would have been better to have tuned the rigging right instead. After moving the stop bolt down or back (or a combination of the two) the lock down bolt won't go in any more (what a better reason to just putty up the holes). If there is no bolt in this hole and the waves come up, water does splash in through these holes wetting the cusions inside. I would move the bolt back to its original posistion, drill out the holes for the lock down bolt (3/8") and get a new lock down bolt, with washers and nut. Then putty up, and paint the old holes. I always use the lock down bolt so incase of a knock down the keel will stay down. The keel must be down for the boat to be self righting, and if the keel does slam back into the trunk, it could cause some expensive damage to the boat. Pull the lock down bolt when slipping into areas with skinny water and the keel will bump up when it strikes anything (bottom or a rock).As far as the compression post goes, just measure the length needed and cut a new one. You can use wood to match the interior. Strongest woods for compression are hickory, fallowed by white cedar, then birtch. Any of these could be used and stained to match the interior wood too. All are stronger than needed. Teak or mohogany are usual choices. These cost more and can even be hard to find some times. A plane old 2x4 will work. Some posts are shorter because PO wanted to use a plate between the deck's bottom and the post to spread the forces over a larger area. Not a bad idea. Extereior ply, or a piece of oak 3/4"-1/2" thick by 3 or 4" by 4-6" will work well here. The post prevents the cabin top from being pushed down by the force of the mast bearring down on the mast step. Remember, it is not just the weight of the mast, but also the force of the mast being pulled down by the shrouds, and stays that has to be held up here. If the compression post was replaced while the mast was stepped, the post would be too short because the deck was compressed down already. Replace the compression post before stepping the mast. A 2"x2" post will work fine (1 1/2" X 1 1/2" finished).Look at the older posts. There have been several on tuning the rig. You can get the static tuning done before the ice is out. Hope everything goes well.