Compression post depression

[Hoosier Kevin]

I own a 78 O'Day 25 -

I was thinking that all I needed to do was to use some git rot and my dry rot on the bottom of my compression post and bulkhead would be fixed.

Then I started preparing for application and found just how bad the rot was on my compression post.

Boy was I stupid! I should have caught it sooner!!!

Anyway - I will need to replace the post. Seems that it is a 2x4 - and I think it would be oak or ash.

Looks like I will need to round the edges and route it so the bulkhead fits snug and available to screw the bulkhead to the post.

Looks like there is no sealant where the post meets the cabin ceiling and I will need to grind out the base and glass it in.

My Question - What is the length of the post?

Seems that I will need to jack up the cabin ceiling - that scares me a little.

Any help with this and words of encouragement are appreciate.

 

[RichBone]

I had the same thing on my boat when I bought it. The post is 3 1/2 x 1 1/4. It's not a 2x4- 3 1/2 x 1 1/2. Be careful removing the post as the bottom has a particular shape. Use the old post as pattern if you can. You may be able to tilt it back towards the stern to remove it.

 

[Ward H]

RBone,
What type of wood did you use to replace your post? Did you consider sealing the bottom few inches of the post to prevent future water intrusion and rot? Since my bulkheads are in good shape except for where they touch the cabin floor, I have considered pulling them and sealing the bottom inch with penetrating epoxy and putting them back. They are not rotted but do soak up some water from the cabin sole if it gets wet.

Kevin, you may already know this but when dealing with the cabin ceiling, it is good practice not to use sealant around any penetrations. Seal or bed penetrations on the deck side but if water leaks in, you don't want to seal it within the deck. You want it to drip down into the cabin so you can see the leak rather than not know it is there.
I don't think there are any penetrations above the post.

 

[RichBone]

I replaced mine with teak, but I think any straight grained hardwood would work. I sealed the bottom with epoxy resin. I'm not worrying about anything rotting (I did replace both bulkheads though) as the boat is dry and the only way it would rot is by gross negligence and as long as I'm able I won't let that happen.

 

[Ritdog]

I have a 79, and did mine this past Spring- the previous owner left it open for a while, and it had about a foot of water in it for some time. I replaced all the bulkheads, hull liner, and the post. The post was rotted out at the trunk line.

I made a prototype out of pine 2x4 for fit and shapeing. For the final I used used oak, and it IS 3.5 x 1.25. by about 58 inches, if I remember (take the measurement from headliner to the trunkline, and add at least 4") , sitting in the socket about 3.5 - 4" deep. (see photos) . I made mine about 1.5" too long, and slowly pared it down on a table saw to fit after planing the thickness dimensions. You will need to rabbet the port bow edge for the bulkhead fitting. I had to pound it in somewhat "lightly" to get it to fit, but I wanted it snug, like the original.

I went to all 3/4" ply for the bulkheads- it worked well for my last 25 , and is stronger than the 1/2" . You will need to rework all the dimensions for that 1/4", but I think it is worth it. Don't worry about jacking the liner to install the new bulkheads - it can take an inch or so...just make sure you get the taper of the bulkhead tops in the slots right!

I put 2 coats of epoxy on the bottom 6" up and varnished the rest of the post. The bottom of the post has a 45 degree cut about 1" in height on the stern side to facilitate "rolling" the post in. I set mine in thickened poly, and it's bomber now.

Also built a new table to replace the original international orange one. Used mahogany with a birds eye maple center strip, and it looks nice, with a teak support and 8 coats of varnish.

 

[Picflight]

Great job @ritdog.

 

[Ward H]

Nice explanation on how to do this repair. Appreciate it. I might be preemptive and pull both the post and bulkhead, epoxy and replace.

 

[Hoosier Kevin]

Thanks so much Ritdog!

Great photos! My concern is with the length - 58 seems too short - I am hoping that it is 68 inches from the headliner to the trunk - add 4" and I have the 72" - or 6 feet - which just makes sense.

Thanks for the heads up on the 45 degree cut -

 

[markwbird]

Not that bad

I've done this very fix on my Hunter 25.5. The old post was pine or similar with teak veneer. I went to the local hardwood shop and bought a piece of Jatoba 2 x 4 (aka Brazilian Cherry). It's actually more solid than teak at half the price. (still not cheap). Anyway. I jacked up the roof from the inside with a car jack and a 2 x 4, pulled the old post, measured it, field cut the new post, routed in a channel for wiring in the field as well, (all with a hand held circular saw and a chisel) and installed the new post. Works great.

 

[Ritdog]

Hoosier Kevin- You are right- 68" is more like it- thanks for catching that! I think I went to 69 and pared it down....

It's exactly why I made a prototype - didn't want to make it too small (reminds me of "Spinal tap" --the Stonehenge sequence!)