My wax on/wax off guy let me down, was supposed to do my boat while i was on vacation. Returned home today, up to his place(boat is on a trailer) the only thing he did do was a test spot to determine that a wetsand is necessary. This is not my P23, another boat i bought in March, kind of neglected. After this vacation i now have more time than money so I am going to do it myself. All new at his one, planning to work by hand, not a buffer, last time i used one on the Precision it got pretty ugly LOL! So, my question is above ,what to apply ,in what order. On P23 last spring did compouund, wax,polish, turned out pretty well i think. Thanks for replies and no uproarious laughter!
Compound after wetsand, or straight to wax/polish?
- Thread starter DAVA390
- Start date
You have the right approach......clean, wet sand, compound, wax.
Tips from Tips For A Great Buff & Wax | Sailboat Owners Forums c/o Maine Sail:
#1-Clean the hull with an acid base cleaner like FSR, oxalic acid or On & Off to remove rust & tannin staining. (only if necessary)
#2-Wet Sand by hand 600 (if real bad) then move up the grits to P1000+ (only if severely oxidized other wise you can start at #3)
#3-3M Marine Rubbing Compound or Presta Gel Coat Compound (use a wool 3M super buff COMPOUND grade pad like the #05711) (if already fairly shiny start at #4)
#4-3M Finesse It or Presta Ultra Cutting Creme (Use a foam 3M #05725 pad or 3M Yellow Wool # 05713 Note: Yellow wool is far easier and far more forgiving for a novice and will also last a LOT longer than any foam)
#5-(OPTIONAL STEP) Presta Chroma - Use 3M #05725 foam, #05713 wool or Blue Presta wool pad.
#6-Collinite #885 Fleet Wax Paste Version- or 3M Performance Paste Wax. For a polymer coating I like AwlCare or Nu-Finish
Tips from Tips For A Great Buff & Wax | Sailboat Owners Forums c/o Maine Sail:
#1-Clean the hull with an acid base cleaner like FSR, oxalic acid or On & Off to remove rust & tannin staining. (only if necessary)
#2-Wet Sand by hand 600 (if real bad) then move up the grits to P1000+ (only if severely oxidized other wise you can start at #3)
#3-3M Marine Rubbing Compound or Presta Gel Coat Compound (use a wool 3M super buff COMPOUND grade pad like the #05711) (if already fairly shiny start at #4)
#4-3M Finesse It or Presta Ultra Cutting Creme (Use a foam 3M #05725 pad or 3M Yellow Wool # 05713 Note: Yellow wool is far easier and far more forgiving for a novice and will also last a LOT longer than any foam)
#5-(OPTIONAL STEP) Presta Chroma - Use 3M #05725 foam, #05713 wool or Blue Presta wool pad.
#6-Collinite #885 Fleet Wax Paste Version- or 3M Performance Paste Wax. For a polymer coating I like AwlCare or Nu-Finish
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No shortcuts here. Clean, wet sand, compound, wax.
TotalBoat TotalBuff has been getting good reviews. There is a quart of it sitting on the dining room table waiting for my wife to buff the cabin top and cockpit with her new buffer.
TotalBoat TotalBuff has been getting good reviews. There is a quart of it sitting on the dining room table waiting for my wife to buff the cabin top and cockpit with her new buffer.
Dave......I am just happy my wife loves to clean the INSIDE of our boat.....I will just have someone clean, wet sand, compound and wax the outside and NOT tell her.
You may not be satisfied with a single step compound. It matters how picky and the color of the boat. If I had to wetsand, I would be doing at least a two step compound (med and fine cut), Ultra Polish then wax. Skipping steps on compound just knocks off the peaks of the wet sanding scratches. It’s my opinion that people tend to go to wetsanding a little too soon due to all the associated issues that come with it like decals and stripping.
One thing I'd add. You mentioned not wanting to use a buffer. If so, I would wet sand up past 1000. Maybe go to 1200 after, then 1400. It will make buffing by hand easier and more effective. Personally, I'd wet sand up to about 1200 and use a buffer. The Presta products are made to start out more aggressive and break down to finer particles as you machine buff them. Not sure how well that works by hand.
One other possibility is to go the Poliglow or Zep floorwax route. I do this with one of our boats using Zep floor wax and it holds up better than any marine product I've ever used on it. (and I buffed and waxed it for years).
One other possibility is to go the Poliglow or Zep floorwax route. I do this with one of our boats using Zep floor wax and it holds up better than any marine product I've ever used on it. (and I buffed and waxed it for years).
I have to question your decision not to use a buffer. Highly recommend you use MaineSail's advice on EVERYTHING related to restoring shine on fiberglass. A grinder polisher is an important component when used with the appropriate pads and compounds.
I did not see the part of not using a buffer. This is a critical error. Your finish will be very blotchy and be a poor finish. I would not start without a buffer and associated pads.
Update: changed my mind about the buffer,using one for removal of each layer after hand wiping off oxidation remover,polish ,wax. I may have jumped the gun on wetsanding,doing test spots now using oxidation remover, polish, then wax, same thing i did on my Precision last spring except then i did remover,then wax,then polish. Some one told me recently better to do it as i am now. No conclusions yet. Only work a few hours in am 5:30 to 7:00 or 8 when it becomes too sunny or hot. Good thing i have a gallon jug of oxidation remover!